Alternator lock nut issue

[T4Rscott]

Hey all,

Last week I did the timing belt and water pump and new belts. I had a bit of a time releasing the alternator adjuster bolt and it broke. So I replaced it, but when I went to torque it according to Timmy the Toolman’s video, it wouldn’t take torque. So off to the dealer again and picked up a new slider, as they call it. When I torqued that one it snapped! Does anyone know if this torque value is correct?

Thanks

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey all,

Last week I did the timing belt and water pump and new belts. I had a bit of a time releasing the alternator adjuster bolt and it broke. So I replaced it, but when I went to torque it according to Timmy the Toolman’s video, it wouldn’t take torque. So off to the dealer again and picked up a new slider, as they call it. When I torqued that one it snapped! Does anyone know if this torque value is correct?

Thanks

What torque value are you using?

 

[nissanh]

Is this the short or long 12 mm bolt? I never set those bolts or oil pan drain bolt to torque spec. Just tight to do it's job. The long bolt in the adjuster keeps the belt tension, short bolt just keep the tensioner firm.

 

[cashflow50]

That happened to me on the compressor idler pulley bolt. The problem with mine was the torque wrench. I tightened and tightened and never heard the click so I kept on going (gun to head) the bugger broke on me, so I went and got another one for $60 from Toyota. The whole slider assembly. So to make things short check your torque wrench, might be broke or not accurate anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pluton]

Most clicker-type torque wrenches may need to be calibrated fairly often---like once a year---whether you use them or not. Even the zillion-dollar Snap Ons can go off.
I switched to the cheaper beam type, which, while inconvenient (sometimes impossible) to read while using, have the advantage of being easily calibrated in about 10 seconds while holding it in your hand.

 

[nissanh]

I go with the experience. 10, 12, 14 mm nuts/bolts just tight and turn a bit more. The 14 mm bolts on U-joints can withstand more torque. 17 mm and up I use the torque wrench. I first tight by hand and then check with the torque wrench and I am very close to the specs.

I find lots of stripped threads on oil drain bolts and the issue I find is they go with factory specs with probably non-accurate torque wrenches.