Alternator problems ???

[Traveler74]

Planning to order brushes as well, just need to confirm proper part number as mine is an 02 model year and Possibly different part number.
Will also take a look at alternator to confirm it’s original before ordering brushes.

I just received an email from the seller of alternator brushes on Amazon. They said that they would require the part number from the actual alternator on my vehicle. They said that part numbers can vary even within the same year.

 

[Traveler74]

A friendly tip: if you can remove your alternator, you can replace the brushes. Its a small assembly held in with two screws, and no wiring to do. Google it. You’re already going to have the alternator in your hands anyway.

Special thanks to thennen . Had it not been for you, I'd never have considered changing the brushes myself. I assumed, wrongly, that it was highly technical work. Apparently, the brushes on my model year are encased in a plastic shroud and easy to slip into place once I take the end cap off the alternator. :reddance:

 

[thennen]

Special thanks to thennen . Had it not been for you, I'd never have considered changing the brushes myself. I assumed, wrongly, that it was highly technical work. Apparently, the brushes on my model year are encased in a plastic shroud and easy to slip into place once I take the end cap off the alternator. :reddance:

Thanks for the kind words. Glad I could be of help. Yeah, I think Toyota (Denso?) uses pretty much the same brush assembly for most of their alternators. I’d be curious to see a pic of the old ones once you do it. Or a pic of both old and new.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Special thanks to thennen . Had it not been for you, I'd never have considered changing the brushes myself. I assumed, wrongly, that it was highly technical work. Apparently, the brushes on my model year are encased in a plastic shroud and easy to slip into place once I take the end cap off the alternator. :reddance:

My SR5 build and repair thread has changing brushes among other thing in the alternator.


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[phattyduck]

12.6V = not charging.

Depending on temperature, the charging voltage is anywhere between 13.2 and 14.6V or so. (higher the temps, the lower the voltage needed to charge the battery)

If you do get a new (rebuilt) alternator, make sure it is OEM or Denso. Basically all others are crap.

-Charlie

 

[Sarki]

Thanks to [MENTION=582693]Traveler74[/MENTION] for starting this thread as I wasn’t aware of this issue and thanks to [MENTION=266619]thennen[/MENTION] and others for pointing out how easy it is to replace the brushes.
I confirmed original alternator in place as well as specific model #’s.
Will be ordering from Amazon or eBay and installing once they arrive.

 

[daytripstoeurope]

Hey all -

Just to be clear, what are the parts numbers for the brush on a 99? I will verify specific model number when I can.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks to [MENTION=582693]Traveler74[/MENTION] for starting this thread as I wasn’t aware of this issue and thanks to [MENTION=266619]thennen[/MENTION] and others for pointing out how easy it is to replace the brushes.
I confirmed original alternator in place as well as specific model #’s.
Will be ordering from Amazon or eBay and installing once they arrive.

To me the cheaper the brush the softer the carbon.

When I bought my project SR5 it had a reman CarQuest 80a Alt. I put it in the 97 puppy hauler when it’s rectifier took a crap and within 2 years the brushes were worn to uselessness.

Edit: so I installed a new OEM brush assembly in the CarQuest reman Alt and it’s now in my SR5

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[Sarki]

To me the cheaper the brush the softer the carbon.
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Good point, like most replacement parts better off with Toyota OE parts. Looks like brush is $17.56 from Conicelli Toyota. Replace it with quality part and don't think of it for another 150K+ miles.
For that price i’ll just include it in my next parts order.

 

[sweet88gt]

So you have the alternator removed and everyone is just changing the brushes?? No diode or regulator replacement ?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

So you have the alternator removed and everyone is just changing the brushes?? No diode or regulator replacement ?

The brushes fail first. It’s a ware part.

Normally if a diode block or voltage regulator fails you got some serious problems or a manufacturing defect.


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[2TH4IST]

Sounds like a bad alternator, but now that your brake lights and alarm don't work I'd start checking fuses too. I'd also have the battery tested, a bad cell can kill your alternator as well. Don't want you to replace a alt only to have it die again.

 

[thennen]

So you have the alternator removed and everyone is just changing the brushes?? No diode or regulator replacement ?

Over the years, I've had one regulator failure (likely cause was failure of aftermarket remote start), and no diode failures. Not sure how one would be able to tell if either of those was nearing a failure point.

I've had one brush failure at 240k which I should have avoided, and replaced 4 sets preventively around 200k miles. I was first turned on to the brush replacement by my dealership parts guy when my 1988 4Runner was approaching 200k miles. That alternator lasted to 305k when I got rid of the truck. Brush replacement is around $15-$20, easy, and typically only needed once. It's the main cause of alternator problems, as I understand it.

 

[Kanoe]

Over the years, I've had one regulator failure (likely cause was failure of aftermarket remote start), and no diode failures. Not sure how one would be able to tell if either of those was nearing a failure point.

I've had one brush failure at 240k which I should have avoided, and replaced 4 sets preventively around 200k miles. I was first turned on to the brush replacement by my dealership parts guy when my 1988 4Runner was approaching 200k miles. That alternator lasted to 305k when I got rid of the truck. Brush replacement is around $15-$20, easy, and typically only needed once. It's the main cause of alternator problems, as I understand it.

Correct me if I am wrong here. Won't bad brushes (not charging) cause the alt light to come on? I can't imagine it wouldn't. What did you see? I've had it happen in a corolla and the light does come on in that case.

I'm thinking if you have an alternator die and not see the alt light on the dash then you have bigger problems than brushes.

 

[Traveler74]

I suspect that the used T4R I just bought is going to turn into a real project .

Note to Kanoe: just prior to the total electrical failure , I lost my dashboard lights AND my tail-lights.

Are there any other hidden fuse boxes, other than the one in the drivers side interior lower panel and the one in the engine compartment ?

 

[Kanoe]

I suspect that the used T4R I just bought is going to turn into a real project .

Note to Kanoe: just prior to the total electrical failure , I lost my dashboard lights AND my tail-lights.

Separate issue. The moment your brushes failed and the alternator was no longer charging, you should have had a light on the dash, just one light to indicate the alternator was no longer charging. this is your warning sign of troubles. The vehicle will continue to run on battery for some time (hours??) on battery reserve alone.

What you saw when you lost all lights was the system shutting down due to low battery. See the difference? One is a warning and should have occured a long time before your truck died.

Let us know how it turns out. I suspect your alternator fail light might be not working as designed. It should come on when you turn the key to ON before you start the truck and go out once started.

Don't get too down on the truck. We all have gone through this. The problem with Toyotas in general is that they are so tough that previous owners can neglect them for years and they still keep going. Then we buy them when the list gets bigger than they want to deal with. You'll get there and it'll be good once you catch up.

 

[thennen]

Correct me if I am wrong here. Won't bad brushes (not charging) cause the alt light to come on? I can't imagine it wouldn't. What did you see? I've had it happen in a corolla and the light does come on in that case.

I'm thinking if you have an alternator die and not see the alt light on the dash then you have bigger problems than brushes.

My 2001 4Runner experienced the brush failure. My wife was DD of that. According to her, there was a day or two of sluggish starting. Then the next day, it failed while she was driving. Had to replace the alternator because nobody carries brushes. I removed them to check, and they were worn badly - one was at about 1/16” or so. She said the battery/alt lights came on only as it was dying.

What I assume was a regulator failure happened on my son’s 2009 Corolla, and it was a hard failure with dash lights and everything. First symptom of that WAS dash lights. Brushes were nearly new.

So to answer your question, maybe it’s because a brush failure isn’t like flipping a switch, since it happens gradually as contact is lost. There would still be some measure of charging until there wasn’t. I don’t know at what point the car is supposed to declare a charging problem.

With your Corolla, did the brushes fail, or do you know?

 

[Traveler74]

I have located and ordered the alternator bushes (incased in a round plastic ring) on e Bay. Only $9.00. It LOOKS exactly like the one I saw on a youtube video and the one shown in Chilton's Repair Manuel, (chapter 5, page 5-15). eBay claims it fits my 1996 T4R SR5.

Being an old fart, I'm much more familiar with the cars of the 50's, and 60's than I am of the newer cars. I certainly did not expect to find the voltage regulator INSIDE the alternator. Tiny little thing. But I didn't order it yet. Perhaps I should have.

 

[thennen]

Separate issue. The moment your brushes failed and the alternator was no longer charging, you should have had a light on the dash, just one light to indicate the alternator was no longer charging. this is your warning sign of troubles. The vehicle will continue to run on battery for some time (hours??) on battery reserve alone.

What you saw when you lost all lights was the system shutting down due to low battery. See the difference? One is a warning and should have occured a long time before your truck died.

Let us know how it turns out. I suspect your alternator fail light might be not working as designed. It should come on when you turn the key to ON before you start the truck and go out once started.

Don't get too down on the truck. We all have gone through this. The problem with Toyotas in general is that they are so tough that previous owners can neglect them for years and they still keep going. Then we buy them when the list gets bigger than they want to deal with. You'll get there and it'll be good once you catch up.

Agreed. Hopefully you have time and the availability of another vehicle to drive. If so, you can troubleshoot without pressure. As Kanoe said, people will drive and drive these things because they can. You have a ton of experience here on the forum, and guys eager to help. You’ll get there.

 

[Traveler74]

Sounds like a bad alternator, but now that your brake lights and alarm don't work I'd start checking fuses too. I'd also have the battery tested, a bad cell can kill your alternator as well. Don't want you to replace a alt only to have it die again.

I replaced the battery with a new one 2 weeks ago. Since then , however, the alternator failed and I had to have auto zone recharge it for 2 hours. Being 20 miles from home I decide to run on battery power alone and get it home. almost made it. 2 blocks short. Now battery is dead again and I'll be trickle charging it for as long as it takes.

excellent video YouTube