Alternator problems ???

I hit a brick wall trying to remove the alternator. 2 problems.

A.) the wiring connector on the end of the alternator , the one with a slightly square plastic clip, will not come off unless I break it off. I tried pressing on it with a tiny flathead and wiggling it. Tried to gently wiggle it off with needle nosed plyers. NO GO. DAMN!

B.) the tensioning bolt is neither 9 mm (too small) nor 10 mm (too big). I looked on the web but , so far I have not located any 9.5 mm socket or box wrench.

I f I can get that bolt off, I'll just cut the wires on the remaining plastic connector.
 
Traveler74 said:
I hit a brick wall trying to remove the alternator. 2 problems.

A.) the wiring connector on the end of the alternator , the one with a slightly square plastic clip, will not come off unless I break it off. I tried pressing on it with a tiny flathead and wiggling it. Tried to gently wiggle it off with needle nosed plyers. NO GO. DAMN!

B.) the tensioning bolt is neither 9 mm (too small) nor 10 mm (too big). I looked on the web but , so far I have not located any 9.5 mm socket or box wrench.

I f I can get that bolt off, I'll just cut the wires on the remaining plastic connector.
Click to expand...

It seems weird that it would be an SAE bolt rather than metric, but 3/8" is almost exactly 9.5mm. I would give that a shot.
 
Traveler74 said:
A.) the wiring connector on the end of the alternator , the one with a slightly square plastic clip, will not come off unless I break it off. I tried pressing on it with a tiny flathead and wiggling it. Tried to gently wiggle it off with needle nosed plyers. NO GO. DAMN!
Click to expand...
Try both pushing and pulling on the connector with the tab depressed. Worst case, you will be able to get a replacement connector.

Sometimes enough dust/dirt/grime gets in the connector to kinda lock it in place. I don't think you have access for this, but the other trick is to use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the connector open - many connectors have a spot where you can do this (push tab with finger, pry between male and female sides with screwdriver).

Don't try to remove your trans if you are having trouble with the alternator connector... things are even worse under there. :hatsoff:

-Charlie
 
Ever get it straightened out? My alt fuse popped and alarm and dash lights are acting up too. Don’t know what happened before I wasn’t the one driving.
 
I managed to get the new alternator in. The wiring harness was a real bear to disconnect and I finally had to cut the wires and replace it with a new one.
Anyway, problem is solved.
 
davidch said:
To the best of my knowledge, the part number for 96-99 alternators is 23730-35060.

2000 and later alternators require 23730-75060.

I see aftermarket versions of these on eBay for under $10. The genuine items, if you can believe the auction, are in the $23 range. One could probably cross reference those numbers in an auto parts store.

Of course, both part numbers are predicated upon your vehicle having tis original alternator.

As others have noted these are easy to replace. If you can extract the alternator you can change its brushes. (Some alternators, eg Mistubishi devices such as found on a Subaru, require deeper surgery, possibly even cauterization, er, soldering. )

Replacing brushes is a good preventative move if you're beyond 175k, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Bit of a zombie thread revival...

Post has wrong part #'s should have read 27370-75060 and 27370-35060

I'm still trying to confirm which if either fits a 98 SR5 with the 3.4l v6.
Camelback toyota says neither, an no similar part available for a 98
 
Last edited:
TNile said:
Bit of a zombie thread revival...

Post has wrong part #'s should have read 27370-75060 and 27370-35060

I'm still trying to confirm which if either fits a 98 SR5 with the 3.4l v6.
Camelback toyota says neither, an no similar part available for a 98
Click to expand...
Just get the Denso 80A option for the 5vz - available on RockAuto and local auto parts stores (Napa, etc.). It should be just as good as the dealer option at this point. The early vs. late model is just amp output - the plugs and fit are the same.

-Charlie
 
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