Alternator problems ???

thennen said:
With your Corolla, did the brushes fail, or do you know?
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Yes, the brushes were wore out. At about 210,000km. Drove the next set to nearly 400,000km on the original alt.

The charge light came on one day. Tapping the alternator with a screwdriver would get it working again and the light would go out. This went on getting progressively worse for a few days until I got the brushes replaced.
 
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thennen said:
Over the years, I've had one regulator failure (likely cause was failure of aftermarket remote start), and no diode failures. Not sure how one would be able to tell if either of those was nearing a failure point.

I've had one brush failure at 240k which I should have avoided, and replaced 4 sets preventively around 200k miles. I was first turned on to the brush replacement by my dealership parts guy when my 1988 4Runner was approaching 200k miles. That alternator lasted to 305k when I got rid of the truck. Brush replacement is around $15-$20, easy, and typically only needed once. It's the main cause of alternator problems, as I understand it.
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I searched brushes and found most very cheap. I have an alternator pushing 13-13.3volts when hot. While I had it off I wondered why not replace the other items.
 
sweet88gt said:
I searched brushes and found most very cheap. I have an alternator pushing 13-13.3volts when hot. While I had it off I wondered why not replace the other items.
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Gotcha. I just don’t know what the benefit would be since regulators and diodes aren’t wear items like brushes.
 
I know there is a fuse box in the engine compartment and another one near the drivers knee, but are there any other hidden ones ?

I am especially interested in the one for the instrument panel AND the one for the tail lights, and the one which supplies power to the auto alarm system. All three are currently non-functional. (3rd gen, 1996 T4R SR5, 2 wheel drive, automatic trans.)
 
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sweet88gt said:
Interesting. I will check the IAT temp vs voltage as well.
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That’s the closest I can get to guessing how hot the Alt would be.

My Cummins (with battery temperature sensors to determine charge rate) the other day was running 13.6v and in the dead of winter it pushes 14.7v.


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Today I attempted to remove the alternator but I was stumped by the two wiring clips? harnesses? I can wiggle them just a bit, but I didn't want to break them by forcing them.

Is there some clip or locking mechanism that you must push with a tiny small screw driver. Chilton's Repair manual does not say. It just says, "Remove the wires"

Please advise
thank you
 
My 3rz alt has just 2 wires. One is the power connection. The plastic cover snaps off and a wrench takes the nut off. The second has a few small wires in 1 connector. It has a thumb tab to press hard on before you pull it out. This connector is the same locking mechanism as most connectors on the vehicle. No screwdrivers required but sometimes they are stiff.
 
Thank you very much, Kanoe.
I think the Chilton's Manual is miss-leading. The drawing is extra small and it LOOKS like there MIGHT be a screw to release one of them. So hard to tell from the drawing. But, I'll follow your advise. thanks again, pal.
 
Traveler74 said:
Thank you very much, Kanoe.
I think the Chilton's Manual is miss-leading. The drawing is extra small and it LOOKS like there MIGHT be a screw to release one of them. So hard to tell from the drawing. But, I'll follow your advise. thanks again, pal.
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I have a pliers with an angled jaw to squeeze those tabs and pull on the plug at the same time.


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Instead of wondering if your battery or alternator is charging, why not buy this for $50.

Amazon.com: KONNWEI KW600 Car Battery Load Tester Black Professional Automotive Alternator Digital Analyzer Waveform Voltage Test Tool for Vehicle/Boat/Motorcycle: Automotive

Tired of spending your money and time on expensive mechanics for routine check-ups on the cold winter? Would you like to self-diagnose your car battery correctly? The KW600 auto battery tester is exactly what you need and its the only battery tester which has a color screen!

One of my best auto purchases - test load of battery and alternator functions and tells you it working right or not.

You really want to run down to Autozone every time you think you have a charging issue? Gees!
 
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Traveler74 said:
Would those be like bent jawed needle nosed plyers ?
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No they have a snub nose and two positions.

Edit.
b3d6eefbf28841cfd89e735db3e52e81.jpg




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phattyduck said:
Temperature control of the charging voltage happens inside the alternator - IATs won't be directly comparable. You'd have to have a temperature probe on the heat sink of the alternator electronics.

-Charlie
Click to expand...


Yep, it’s as close as I can get to that. I just wanted to show what the voltage can go down to under really hot conditions.


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