Alternator, Starter, Battery, or all 3?

8

83wonder

New member
Awhile ago my 4runner began having issues starting. I'd turn the key and hear a single click, but after another try or 2 it'd turn over until one day when it wouldn't start at all.

A week after that I tried starting it after it'd been sitting and the battery was dead. I got a jump and after trying to turn it over a couple times it fired up, but it died as I came to a stop after driving around the block. This time when I'd go to turn it over I'd get that rapid machine-gun-like clicking too.

Thoughts?
 
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Start by doing simple things like cleaning up your battery posts and battery cable terminals. Also take a look at your grounds to see they are tight and not corroded. If you're still having the issue test your battery and charging system.
If you don't have a multi-meter, drive your rig to an auto parts store like O'Reilly and they will test your battery and charging system for free. If your battery is good and your alternator is charging fine, it could be your starter. If the starter is suspected as being bad, don't go out a buy a cheapo aftermarket one. Pull your Denso starter out and put some fresh contacts and a plunger in your solenoid. 9 times out of 10, that's all you need to fix your starter and keeping your OEM Denso starter is really the way you want to go.
 
In my experience, a single click is the starter not turning over, and multiple machine gun clicks is a weak battery. However, a dead battery will do one big clunk and then the system shuts down as the starter grabs the last available amps from the weak battery. So, as [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] suggested, do some testing and if it turns out to be the starter, starter contacts is a cheap and relatively easy way to refurbish a quality product.

It seems to me that your alternator is likely not charging hence the dying after jumping. It could be a lot of things though so get a decent multi meter from like Home Depot for like $40 and see what the voltages are. If it clicks once, and you have 12 volts at the main starter input lug, then you know the internal contacts are locking up and not turning over the starter motor. Check charging voltage at the battery and the big lug on the alternator. Should be about 14.5 volts running. Anything less than 13 is a questionable alternator and worth replacing or refurbishing.

Options are either to start throwing parts as in a battery/alternator/starter or invest in simple diag tools and start probing. We are here to help. It's a simple system and learning it gives you knowledge and comfort for your life.

Good luck
 
4Reak Show said:
In my experience, a single click is the starter not turning over, and multiple machine gun clicks is a weak battery. However, a dead battery will do one big clunk and then the system shuts down as the starter grabs the last available amps from the weak battery. So, as [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] suggested, do some testing and if it turns out to be the starter, starter contacts is a cheap and relatively easy way to refurbish a quality product.

It seems to me that your alternator is likely not charging hence the dying after jumping. It could be a lot of things though so get a decent multi meter from like Home Depot for like $40 and see what the voltages are. If it clicks once, and you have 12 volts at the main starter input lug, then you know the internal contacts are locking up and not turning over the starter motor. Check charging voltage at the battery and the big lug on the alternator. Should be about 14.5 volts running. Anything less than 13 is a questionable alternator and worth replacing or refurbishing.

Options are either to start throwing parts as in a battery/alternator/starter or invest in simple diag tools and start probing. We are here to help. It's a simple system and learning it gives you knowledge and comfort for your life.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help! Would it seem odd for all 3 to be bad? I'm the 2nd owner and the 4runner has 225k miles on it, don't know if/when anything was replaced.

The single click and failure to start was the first issue so I was thinking it was the starter for sure but then the battery died and once I jumped it (after having to crank it multiple times) it died again while idling. Kinda threw me for a loop
 
I liked the senior members advice..simple first..i would eliminate the battery question..that's what it sounds like to me.
 
batterys are a pain in the butt these days. check it, cold. crank it up and check the alternator, cut it off check it , then let it sit a couple hours and check it again.

one question does the battery light come on while running, especially at idle? an almost sure sign that your alternator is going.

If you have another vehicle a good way to check is to switch batteries if they fit and see if it still happens. quick way to eliminate the battery.

If you are getting weak amps for a while it can hurt your starter. but fairly rare
 
Lots of good advice. Don't be afraid to break out some terminal cleaner or in a pinch some baking soda and water. Check all the connections for corrosion, damage, tighten grounds, etc.

Look for anything that looks aftermarket and/or sketchy. If your battery posts are OEM check for corrosion and such. If they're those "emergency" clamp on jobs from the parts store, ditch them and replace the cables. This might be an excuse to do the "Big 3" upgrade.

4Reak's info on the starter click is spot on. I almost replaced my starter a while back when I was having the random "single click" problem. I removed my starter and tried testing the solenoid on a "big" 55Ah battery I had for a project. It was showing signs of bad so I went looking for a replacement. When I took it to the parts store for a replacement I had them test it and it came back A-OK. I ended up disassembling the plunger and cleaning all the contacts with some Emory cloth. It's worked flawlessly ever since. A "weak" battery presents all kinds of problems.
 
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You asked if it's odd for all 3, I would say it's unlikely. But anything is possible. My guess is alternator is weak or shot, and that took out the battery. Lead acid batteries aren't the same after a full discharge.

Since you said you had to "crank it over multiple times" to get it to run, that tells me that with a full battery (I.E. Jump starting) the starter works normal.

Everything starts and end at the battery and its connections. Simple first, (visual check) then bust out a multimeter and get some values.
 
One thing I forgot to mention is if your alternator shows signs of insufficient charging, it may just be worn down brushes which are easy to replace and very affordable. It's the same principle when fixing your starter by replacing the contacts and plunger. Don't get rid of your high quality Denso alternator, fix it and keep it.

Here's a couple videos that may help you out:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WV1t5-wcoOI" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/71_kBhg6_-A" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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