Am I driving a ticking time bomb?

Lower Ball joints and replace your radiator.

Do the lower ball joints and radiator first. If a ball joint fails your best case scenario is a very expensive repair bill that could have been prevented with $160. Only use oem lbj's. Google 4runner lower ball joint failure. Basically your wheel falls off while you're moving.

If your radiator (really the transmission oil cooler) fails, you've got to replace or rebuild your transmission. Also very expensive.

If your timing belt breaks, your engine turns off but it doesn't cause any collateral damage. You just replace it like normal. You don't have an interference engine. It needs to be done, but I'd give higher priority to those other two.

I'll go ahead echo what everyone else has said about the Lower Ball Joints and radiator. Lower Ball Joints need to be at the very top of your list. Everything else can wait until that's done. Don't fall into the mindset that it's too expensive or that yours seem to be working ok.

And above all else, they need to be genuine Toyota Lower Ball Joints. Part store brands are NOT acceptable in this instance. If you are not going to replace them yourself but have a shop do it, be damn sure to bring them the OEM parts. Don't let them slap on some cheap junk from Autozone. OEM only.

This is what happens when one of your LBJs fail:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/227083-one-more-lbj-failure-add-list.html

Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633
timing belt/water pump/engine seals - $868
alignment - $89
Grand total out the door - $2328.06
Seems pretty high but of course it is a dealership..
What do you guys think?
 
Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633
timing belt/water pump/engine seals - $868
alignment - $89
Grand total out the door - $2328.06
Seems pretty high but of course it is a dealership..
What do you guys think?

Honestly - ridiculous price. You could buy your own tools and parts and do the job yourself for that price. If you're not comfortable doing your own TB/WP then that's about right. Spring for the $868. The alignment is pretty much on par. The radiator and LBJ's are way off. IMHO
 
Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633
timing belt/water pump/engine seals - $868
alignment - $89
Grand total out the door - $2328.06
Seems pretty high but of course it is a dealership..
What do you guys think?

That's insane for the radiator and LBJ's. The radiator by itself is around $100, after hoses and coolant I'd think you could get it all for $150-$175. The replacement seems about as easy as you can get for a radiator. If I'm going to do it myself, then that's saying a lot. I just bought LBJ's and bolts for around $200 yesterday from Toyota of Dallas, having a friend help me with those (as well as OTREs and lift)
 
Honestly - ridiculous price. You could buy your own tools and parts and do the job yourself for that price. If you're not comfortable doing your own TB/WP then that's about right. Spring for the $868. The alignment is pretty much on par. The radiator and LBJ's are way off. IMHO
I may have to figure out to do it by myself then. I don't mind doing things myself but the problem with car work is that I can't get it all done in one day and need to get to work.. I don't have an extra car sitting around :/

That's insane for the radiator and LBJ's. The radiator by itself is around $100, after hoses and coolant I'd think you could get it all for $150-$175. The replacement seems about as easy as you can get for a radiator. If I'm going to do it myself, then that's saying a lot. I just bought LBJ's and bolts for around $200 yesterday from Toyota of Dallas, having a friend help me with those (as well as OTREs and lift)

I'll have to look into the radiator replacement process then if you say it is that easy. That's the second time I've seen someone say Toyota of Dallas is cheaper. Are they so much cheaper that ordering from them and paying for shipping is still worth it?
 
Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633

Seems really high. I'm far from a great mechanic but replaced my radiator with a $100 Denso unit (Rock Auto) in a little over an hour with very ordinary hand tools.

I also surprised myself by replacing my own LBJs in about three hours. OEM parts were around $200 on Amazon. This required a few more tools - I bought a floor jack, some jack stands and a "pickle fork" style removal tool. I already owned a torque wrench. Maybe $175 in tools and now I have them for next time.

Do you have an independent mechanic near you?
 
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Seems really high. I'm far from a great mechanic but replaced my radiator with a $100 Denso unit in a little over an hour with very ordinary hand tools.

I also surprised myself by replacing my own LBJs in about three hours. OEM parts were around $200 on Amazon. This required a few more tools - I bought a floor jack, some jack stands and a "pickle fork" style removal tool. I already owned a torque wrench. Maybe $175 in tools and now I have them for next time.

Do you have an independent mechanic near you?

Is there a good write up that you followed for the each process?
I'm in Tampa so I'm sure there are plenty of independent mechanics, knowing which ones are the good ones is a different story..
 
I may have to figure out to do it by myself then. I don't mind doing things myself but the problem with car work is that I can't get it all done in one day and need to get to work.. I don't have an extra car sitting around :/



I'll have to look into the radiator replacement process then if you say it is that easy. That's the second time I've seen someone say Toyota of Dallas is cheaper. Are they so much cheaper that ordering from them and paying for shipping is still worth it?

For me it was. Camelback Toyota is the other place a lot of people recommend as they have free shipping, but they are local to me so I would have had to pay tax.
 
For me it was. Camelback Toyota is the other place a lot of people recommend as they have free shipping, but they are local to me so I would have had to pay tax.

Do we know the part numbers for these items? I'm sending Camelbak a parts request and they need the numbers.
 
Is there a good write up that you followed for the each process?


Yes. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has an excellent video on the ball joint replacement. I don't remember which writeup I used for the radiator but there are several on this board.

Two tips on the radiator. I know [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] replaced his without removing the grill but I found it easier to remove mine first. The trick is to have a supply of the little clips on hand because by now they're all brittle and they break. There is a writeup somewhere showing how they come off but they still break. They're dirt cheap - get some when you order the radiator.

The best tip is the one about the Sharpie marker, which I also found on here. Have a Sharpie marker at the ready when you disconnect the transmission cooler line. Use the marker to quickly plug the line. I didn't lose but a few drops of trans fluid - slick! :thumb:
 
Yes. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has an excellent video on the ball joint replacement. I don't remember which writeup I used for the radiator but there are several on this board.

Two tips on the radiator. I know [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] replaced his without removing the grill but I found it easier to remove mine first. The trick is to have a supply of the little clips on hand because by now they're all brittle and they break. There is a writeup somewhere showing how they come off but they still break. They're dirt cheap - get some when you order the radiator.

The best tip is the one about the Sharpie marker, which I also found on here. Have a Sharpie marker at the ready when you disconnect the transmission cooler line. Use the marker to quickly plug the line. I didn't lose but a few drops of trans fluid - slick! :thumb:

Nice! Thanks!
 
Yes. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has an excellent video on the ball joint replacement. I don't remember which writeup I used for the radiator but there are several on this board.

Two tips on the radiator. I know [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] replaced his without removing the grill but I found it easier to remove mine first. The trick is to have a supply of the little clips on hand because by now they're all brittle and they break. There is a writeup somewhere showing how they come off but they still break. They're dirt cheap - get some when you order the radiator.

The best tip is the one about the Sharpie marker, which I also found on here. Have a Sharpie marker at the ready when you disconnect the transmission cooler line. Use the marker to quickly plug the line. I didn't lose but a few drops of trans fluid - slick! :thumb:

I've taken my grill off at least 5 times and never broke a clip. You just got to get in there with a small screw driver and push the little tab down so it can pull out of the slot. It takes a little finesse but you can do it without breaking any of the clips.

I have a video that covers the radiator replacement as well. It's part of a video that covers replacing the radiator, thermostat and adding an external trans cooler in the process. And, I cover how to manipulate the clips to get the grill off. At first I thought you had to push the clip in but all you have to do is push the clip tab down so the tab can be pulled through a slot.

Here's the video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nVbwe2t2T8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I've taken my grill off at least 5 times and never broke a clip. You just got to get in there with a small screw driver and push the little tab down so it can pull out of the slot. It takes a little finesse but you can do it without breaking any of the clips.



I have a video that covers the radiator replacement as well. It's part of a video that covers replacing the radiator, thermostat and adding an external trans cooler in the process. And, I cover how to manipulate the clips to get the grill off. At first I thought you had to push the clip in but all you have to do is push the clip tab down so the tab can be pulled through a slot.



Here's the video:



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nVbwe2t2T8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



Tim great videos. Love them. Shows a knuckle dragger with no skills like me how to do it in a way I understand. Ty!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633
timing belt/water pump/engine seals - $868
alignment - $89
Grand total out the door - $2328.06
Seems pretty high but of course it is a dealership..
What do you guys think?


DO NOT have the dealership service an older 4Runner. Their reason for being is to service warranties and sell new cars. If you don't want to do the work yourself find a reputable independent shop in your area. Ask around, ask here, ask a community forum on Facebook. I don't do much mechanical work. Last spring I had the LBJ's, radiator timing belt and water pump done for less than $1000 at the shop I've been going to a while. This was my 2000 4Runner. We do not have a huge relationship other than they see me once a year for state inspections. They used to be a lot cheaper but they built a huge new shop. They are still generally half the price of the dealership and they use Toyota and Denso parts. Once you get caught up on maintenance you'll find you seldom need to darken the door of a mechanic's shop. For the alignment go to Firestone and pay $180 for the lifetime alignment. They will realign the truck for as long as you have it. They will also constantly try to sell you shocks and tie rod ends and washer blades. Stay strong. The good thing is all the work you need should be done but the truck is running and you have time to get some estimates.
 
Hey, OP, you got this! This is a very forgiving rig to learn how to wrench on, trust me. Yeah, you'll probably mess some stuff up, but this truck is resilient and can run in way worse conditions. Yeah, it won't be great for the truck if you screw stuff up, but it's a learning experience and it'll still run (usually).

Yes, these things are going to feel daunting as hell, but your confidence is going to shoot through the roof even after your first couple of minor DIY fixes. I'd be surprised if there isn't a T4R forum member close to you that wouldn't be willing to point you through some of these things in exchange for some pizza and beer.

To echo what everyone else has said, radiator and LBJs for sure. I'm guessing money isn't plentiful for you, and I was in the same boat when I first bought my 97 4Runner. It was hard for me to justify the right tools too, but I'm glad I didn't cheap out on those since I still use the good ones 7 years later. Don't cheap out on anything that can touches a fastener or a bolt (wrenches and sockets really), but you don't have to get Snap-on either. Craftsman is fine, or look at Craigslist for used Mac, Snap-on, or other higher end mechanic brands.

Good luck, and we look forward to seeing a happy success story soon! Post pics too! Also, use the search feature here since it's pretty much guaranteed that someone has run into the same problem before.
 
DO NOT have the dealership service an older 4Runner. Their reason for being is to service warranties and sell new cars. If you don't want to do the work yourself find a reputable independent shop in your area. Ask around, ask here, ask a community forum on Facebook. I don't do much mechanical work. Last spring I had the LBJ's, radiator timing belt and water pump done for less than $1000 at the shop I've been going to a while. This was my 2000 4Runner. We do not have a huge relationship other than they see me once a year for state inspections. They used to be a lot cheaper but they built a huge new shop. They are still generally half the price of the dealership and they use Toyota and Denso parts. Once you get caught up on maintenance you'll find you seldom need to darken the door of a mechanic's shop. For the alignment go to Firestone and pay $180 for the lifetime alignment. They will realign the truck for as long as you have it. They will also constantly try to sell you shocks and tie rod ends and washer blades. Stay strong. The good thing is all the work you need should be done but the truck is running and you have time to get some estimates.

OP, please please please DO NOT pay those prices at the dealership. Especially the radiator and LBJ replacements. The radiator replacement can be done with simple tools. The LBJ replacement works best with pullers to disconnect the outer tie rod from the knuckle of the LBJ and to disconnect the LBJ from the lower control arm. You can rent pullers for free at most auto parts stores so no need to buy them.

The Timing Belt / Water Pump / Crankshaft and Crankshaft Seal Replacement is a lot more involved and maybe something you'd prefer to pay for at a good shop. Do a Yelp search for your area and I'm sure you'll be able to find a reputable shop with good reviews that will charge a whole lot less than the dealership.

Nobody can do an alignment themselves at home with perfect accuracy so you'll also have to pay for that as well. You can get your vehicle aligned really close but it's better to just pay a shop that has the fancy computerized machine.
 
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Ok so the quote I got from the dealership for:
radiator - $563
LBJs - $633
timing belt/water pump/engine seals - $868
alignment - $89
Grand total out the door - $2328.06
Seems pretty high but of course it is a dealership..
What do you guys think?

For a Toyota dealer using oem parts, those are legit prices. Aftermarket parts of course would be cheaper.
 

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