Am I getting the run around - audio install

[GAsr5]

Got it thanks for the guidance. I will try to take some photos today.

They did not take pics of the install. When I picked it up that was one of the first things they said “oh it sounds great I wish we had taken photos”.... yet another red flag?

So I guess it’s almost like working backwards cables>install>hardware

This sucks but I guess this is my fault for not taking it to the better shop.

2017 TRD Off road NON JBL 4Runner for reference

 

[riceandpho]

your going to have to do your own pics, usually installers dont take pics unless you request it. but read the audiocontrol manual, it should be similar to the tacotunes stuff.

Got it thanks for the guidance. I will try to take some photos today.

They did not take pics of the install. When I picked it up that was one of the first things they said “oh it sounds great I wish we had taken photos”.... yet another red flag?

So I guess it’s almost like working backwards cables>install>hardware

This sucks but I guess this is my fault for not taking it to the better shop.

2017 TRD Off road NON JBL 4Runner for reference

 

[GAsr5]

It was the same thanks for posting. Saw the trouble shooting on noise - looks like I’ll have to play with the gains. To be honest, I think I’m just going to take it in to another shop and get their opinion.

I really don’t understand this at all and don’t want to start messing with gains and tuning when I don’t know anything about this stuff.

I know I’m just *****ing at this point. Just mad at the install and that I should’ve trusted my gut and just paid a bit more.

 

[GAsr5]

amp photo

 

[riceandpho]

amp photo

look like some random rca wires, if you have spare rca cable, i would swap it out for some better quality ones, the ones that have better shielding.
also unplug the rca from the sub out, your amp dont seem to have an input for a sub. if you are ready to add a sub amp, then you can run the signal off that output.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/eqs/eqs-user-manual.pdf

read that and understand that its the same as the tacotune stuff, you might need to readjust the eq part, or have to take it apart and see the settings inside, also on the amp itself, might need to have the gains either turned down to match the signal input.


remember that on your radio, do not use the radio bass and treble and mid setting, you need to have that flat. only do the sound adjustment on the tacotune eq.

 

[GAsr5]

Went to the new shop yesterday for more opinions. He was shocked at the quality of wiring they used on the first job.

We then hooked up a sub and the sub remote line doesn’t work. We turned the sub eq up and down on the EZQ and that didn’t change anything in the output.

Scratching my head on this one. He said the same - could be unit or wiring. I’m going to have him gut it and put in quality wiring and do a good job. In the mean time, should I go test fit the AudioControl dm601?

Lastly, if my EZQ is the issue, what do I need to just run a 5 channel amp? Do I need an lc6i? Do I need anything or can the shop just use the amp and connect directly to the head unit? If I don’t need any processors or EQs etc then I won’t use one. I want only what I need to hook up a sub and amp the door speakers.

 

[riceandpho]

y

our amp will only do sub out from the front and rear input of the amp, on the amp itself, turn the gain up on the sub side. remember your amp do not have an actual sub inout, thats why on the tacotunes eq, the sub out is useless
, unless you hooking up an up with that input.
if you dont need any eq, the lc6 is just that, a line out converter, now with that said, if you are doing an aftermarket radio which you should now, its about the same cost.

there is no point of you getting the dm608, your amp dont have 5 channel input at all, now if you are just going to keep the 5 channel amp for the 4 channel mode, and buying another amp for sub duties than you can get that.

but if you want an all in one package, the D-6.1200 | AudioControl

its an amp with the built in processor.


so far you spent like 400+ bucks ??

 

[GAsr5]

View attachment 336273y

our amp will only do sub out from the front and rear input of the amp, on the amp itself, turn the gain up on the sub side. remember your amp do not have an actual sub inout, thats why on the tacotunes eq, the sub out is useless
, unless you hooking up an up with that input.
if you dont need any eq, the lc6 is just that, a line out converter, now with that said, if you are doing an aftermarket radio which you should now, its about the same cost.

there is no point of you getting the dm608, your amp dont have 5 channel input at all, now if you are just going to keep the 5 channel amp for the 4 channel mode, and buying another amp for sub duties than you can get that.

but if you want an all in one package, the D-6.1200 | AudioControl

its an amp with the built in processor.


so far you spent like 400+ bucks ??

So if I want to keep the amp that I currently have - what do I need? Any processor or LOC?

Or can I just get the Rockford 1000x5 and call it a day? I don’t know what I need for this. I really just want to have a simple and loud setup. I want to keep the headunit. Just want to change the crappy speakers and add a sub

 

[riceandpho]

to get the subwoofer to work, you need to have the controls set correctly on the picture circle in red, test to see if the sub work when you turn up the gain and have the switch at 5 channel mode.
the taco tune eq is already an loc that has eq built in, i wouldnt waste anymore money till you get the amp working correctly. you amp only have front and rear output, if you are not getting sounds at the sub out of the amp, your gain for that part is still not set right. turn up the gain and the lpf on the amp to get sound.

 

[GAsr5]

to get the subwoofer to work, you need to have the controls set correctly on the picture circle in red, test to see if the sub work when you turn up the gain and have the switch at 5 channel mode.
the taco tune eq is already an loc that has eq built in, i wouldnt waste anymore money till you get the amp working correctly. you amp only have front and rear output, if you are not getting sounds at the sub out of the amp, your gain for that part is still not set right. turn up the gain and the lpf on the amp to get sound.

Need to clarify - subwoofer DOES work when we hooked one up. What didn’t work was the sub remote. It did not change the volume of the sub.

Everything sounded fine when we hooked up the sub(we just put one in to test, haven’t purchased one yet). However, alternator/engine wine still present and static noise when turning on the car

 

[riceandpho]

Need to clarify - subwoofer DOES work when we hooked one up. What didn’t work was the sub remote. It did not change the volume of the sub.

Everything sounded fine when we hooked up the sub(we just put one in to test, haven’t purchased one yet). However, alternator/engine wine still present and static noise when turning on the car

check to see if the plug is all the way in, its good to unplug and plug it back in. i think it just control the volume to the sub and not boost.

 

[GAsr5]

check to see if the plug is all the way in, its good to unplug and plug it back in. i think it just control the volume to the sub and not boost.

Should I just axe the EZQ all together? I just want the static to go away. When I get them to rewire it I may just take the ezq out if I don’t need it.

If I get this Rockford Fosgate Power T1000X5ad Compact 5-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 to 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 to 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Can I run just this and call it a day? Confused on what is required(besides an amp of course). I want only what I need to power door speakers and a sub. Nothing else. As little equipment as possible.

 

[MikeyMTBs]

You don’t NEED the recurve, it just takes the muddy output from the stock head unit, conditions the music based on your inputs/changes and then sends it to the amp for amplification and then back out to the speakers.

If that is the cause of your noise, I might try bypassing it first to ensure that is the source of your noise.

Also, turn on noise, or turn on pop can be caused by the amp turning on before the processor. I’m not familiar with the recurve but I believe there should be a way to delay the signal from the recurve to the amp to give the recurve time to fire up.

I had the same issue with an AudioControl unit. I finally ditched it and put in a JL Audio Fix 86 and that worked perfectly.

Good luck man.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GAsr5]

You don’t NEED the recurve, it just takes the muddy output from the stock head unit, conditions the music based on your inputs/changes and then sends it to the amp for amplification and then back out to the speakers.

If that is the cause of your noise, I might try bypassing it first to ensure that is the source of your noise.

Also, turn on noise, or turn on pop can be caused by the amp turning on before the processor. I’m not familiar with the recurve but I believe there should be a way to delay the signal from the recurve to the amp to give the recurve time to fire up.

I had the same issue with an AudioControl unit. I finally ditched it and put in a JL Audio Fix 86 and that worked perfectly.

Good luck man.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any issues with the 86? Are you using any type of EQ now? My tweeters are pretty bright. Too harsh in some instances.

Would you recommend me doing that? I don’t mind spending money and I know I’m going to have to. What I do have a problem with, is spending money for no reason to diagnose one problem and not have a real solution. I don’t want to just throw money around for no purpose.

I’d rather just do it once and do it right than trying a bunch of different things that my shop is going to charge me $110 per hour to look at and fix.