Andy MOD question

[MStudt]

I'd like to get this done before heading to Lone Star in a couple weeks. I have an 01 SR5 and need to do the Andy MOD. However, I'd like to keep the look as stock as possible. I picked up this switch from a fellow member, and would like to stick with it.




This switch has 3 pins, not two. I took an ohm meter to it to see which leads to use. I need to use both outside pins as my connecting points. Thing is this, I'm only showing a change on the ohm meter when I'm holding the button in. When I release the button the ohm meter goes back to 1.

Any help would be great.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

You can use a momentary switch, which turns the VSC off until you restart the engine (which is probably preferrable for off-roading but for winter driving I want it to stay off). However, I believe VSC turns off when the wire is grounded, thus requiring a switch that would read '1' (or zero) when it is pressed, not released. With your switch, it sounds like the VSC would be turned off all the time.

 

[MStudt]

You can use a momentary switch, which turns the VSC off until you restart the engine (which is probably preferrable for off-roading but for winter driving I want it to stay off). However, I believe VSC turns off when the wire is grounded, thus requiring a switch that would read '1' (or zero) when it is pressed, not released. With your switch, it sounds like the VSC would be turned off all the time.

Would there be anyway to use this switch? When I get home tonight I'm going to use a test light on it to make sure. I'd really like to keep this stock look, and have to get a rocker switch.

*Edit, just came across this thread that talks about using a relay with the switch.

 

[sportrunner2001]

as long as the switch will turn it off it should be fine, on mine I have a two position switch that when i flip it to the off position it disables vsc/trac after a few seconds. I can flip the switch back to the on position and nothing will happen until I restart the engine.

with that switch you could have the pin that engages (for lack of a better term) lead to nothing to essentially disconnect the wire for the amount of time needed to disable the system and then release the switch.

This is if your using andyMOD 2.0 I don't know about the first version well enough to help if thats what your going for

 

[MStudt]

as long as the switch will turn it off it should be fine, on mine I have a two position switch that when i flip it to the off position it disables vsc/trac after a few seconds. I can flip the switch back to the on position and nothing will happen until I restart the engine.

with that switch you could have the pin that engages (for lack of a better term) lead to nothing to essentially disconnect the wire for the amount of time needed to disable the system and then release the switch.

This is if your using andyMOD 2.0 I don't know about the first version well enough to help if thats what your going for

I do plan on using the 2.0 for this. I know this switch is normally open and closes when pressed. I need the circuit normally closed until I hit the switch so a relay is needed to flip flop. I just don't know the wiring of the relay.

 

[sportrunner2001]

I do plan on using the 2.0 for this. I know this switch is normally open and closes when pressed. I need the circuit normally closed until I hit the switch so a relay is needed to flip flop. I just don't know the wiring of the relay.

Thats my bad I just reread that thread after posting my last response. I don't know that much about relays. It sounds like one thats always on is needed, then shut off with the switch. search amazon or somewheres for an always on relay. Most likely it will wire the same way as the normal type of relay and just be reversed inside. I *think* that a 12v positive will be needed to run to the switch and then when the switch is depressed it will send that to the relay and it will disconnect the vsc wire. Im not totally sure on this.

 

[MStudt]

Thats my bad I just reread that thread after posting my last response. I don't know that much about relays. It sounds like one thats always on is needed, then shut off with the switch. search amazon or somewheres for an always on relay. Most likely it will wire the same way as the normal type of relay and just be reversed inside. I *think* that a 12v positive will be needed to run to the switch and then when the switch is depressed it will send that to the relay and it will disconnect the vsc wire. Im not totally sure on this.

Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the switch is normally open now, and needs to be flipped. Would I need to find a normally closed relay?

 

[sportrunner2001]

Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the switch is normally open now, and needs to be flipped. Would I need to find a normally closed relay?

thats what I was trying to say haha always on=closed. the relay will be normally closed, then opened when the switch is closed. thats why I was saying the switch may need a 12v+ to trigger the relay into opening. I only learned automotive wiring for a week or two in high school, I'm not too intelligent on relays haha.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

Wouldn't it be the other way around? If the switch is normally open now, and needs to be flipped. Would I need to find a normally closed relay?

From what you described about using the meter, it appears your switch is 'normally closed' meaning it is 'on' until you press it. The Andy mod closes the circuit to disable VSC, thus, if you use this switch, the VSC will always be disabled (since the circuit will always be complete). You could use a relay that is run normally powered (passing 12V through the switch) and when you press the button it releases the relay. The relay contacts would be wired so it closes the VSC circuit when the relay is inactive. You would just need to make sure the relay gets power from somewhere that provides 12V whenever the ignition is on, and stays on while the starter is engaged (otherwise the relay would de-energize when starting and probably keep the VSC disabled all the time).

 

[MStudt]

I used a factory Avalon switch and a relay since the switch is normally open and closes when pressed. You want the circuit normally closed until you hit the switch so a relay is needed to flip flop. Just hold the switch until Trac and VSC turns off, maybe 3-4 seconds.

From what you described about using the meter, it appears your switch is 'normally closed' meaning it is 'on' until you press it. The Andy mod closes the circuit to disable VSC, thus, if you use this switch, the VSC will always be disabled (since the circuit will always be complete). You could use a relay that is run normally powered (passing 12V through the switch) and when you press the button it releases the relay. The relay contacts would be wired so it closes the VSC circuit when the relay is inactive. You would just need to make sure the relay gets power from somewhere that provides 12V whenever the ignition is on, and stays on while the starter is engaged (otherwise the relay would de-energize when starting and probably keep the VSC disabled all the time).

The above quote is from a thread that I came across. This person used the exact same switch as mine, but he states it is normally open, and used to relay on it. [MENTION=92047]v3bahumut[/MENTION]

 

[sportrunner2001]

Im confused, does closed mean power is running through the circuit? thats how I understood it and thats probably why my explanation seemed backwards to you [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]

 

[MStudt]

Im confused, does closed mean power is running through the circuit? thats how I understood it and thats probably why my explanation seemed backwards to you [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]

My understanding is that open means the contact is broke (open like a gate), and closed means the contact is connected (closed like a gate). Found this picture to help us both.

 

[nor_cal51501]

Yes, you guys are correct. The factory Trac off switch runs as an open setup so if you were to run it your Trac and vsc would always be disabled due to the "open circuit" in the switch. You will need to run a relay in order to make the circuit "closed" for normal operation and when the switch is pressed it causes the relay to "open" the circuit and disrupt the ground to the vac/trac system. Another option(requires more work) is to use an RR diff lock switch and redo the face of the switch. That switch runs normally "closed" when pressed in and when depressed (out) runs "open". It's a bit more work to redo the switch face but it does keep the factory fit and finish without the hassle of relay wiring.(better option if electrical is not a strong suite of yours). I used the RR Diff lock option when doing mine and found the switch much easier to work with than relays. Only issue I found(which is personal preference) is that the switch would need to be pressed in for normal operation "closed" (vsc and trac on) and depressed for "open" (vsc trac off).

For reference here's my setup.

"Closed" circuit (normal operation/vsc and trac enabled) button will be pressed in:

"Open" circuit (vsc and trac disabled) button will be depressed and out:

 

[MStudt]

Yes, you guys are correct. The factory Trac off switch runs as an open setup so if you were to run it your Trac and vsc would always be disabled due to the "open circuit" in the switch. You will need to run a relay in order to make the circuit "closed" for normal operation and when the switch is depressed it causes the relay to "open" the circuit and disrupt the ground to the vac/trac system. Another option(requires more work) is to use an RR diff lock switch and redo the face of the switch. That switch runs normally "closed" and when depressed runs "open". It's a bit more work to redo the switch face but it does keep the factory fit and finish without the hassle of relay wiring.(better option if electrical is not a strong suite of yours). I used the RR Diff lock option when doing mine and found the switch much easier to work with than relays. Only issue I found(which is personal preference) is that the switch would need to be depressed for normal operation "closed" (vsc and trac on) and depressed for "open" (vsc trac off).

Is this because it's not a momentary switch? Do you happen to have part number for this switch? I don't mind wiring up a relay, and that's not hard to do. I just need to be point in the right direction. I've wired relays on car stereos before, just not for a switch.

*Edit*
Just bought a diff lock switch off eBay with the pigtail for $20 and free shipping. Let me know how you redid the switch. Is it as simple as just popping off the face of it and swapping?




Thanks

 

[sportrunner2001]

From what you described about using the meter, it appears your switch is 'normally closed' meaning it is 'on' until you press it. The Andy mod closes the circuit to disable VSC, thus, if you use this switch, the VSC will always be disabled (since the circuit will always be complete

This is why I became confused. Im pretty sure AndyMOD 2.0 opens the circuit from the VSC module under the dash to disable it (wire from pin V18 if i recall). if it were the other way around, i would have my vsc ON while my switch was in the OFF (open) position, which is not the case.

My experience:
-switch ON (closed) = VSC/TRAC ON
-switch OFF (open) = VSC/TRAC OFF

now if your switch is OFF (open) while UNdepressed the style of relay posted in the other thread should be needed

 

[nor_cal51501]

Unfortunately I do not have a part number, I got all my switches from local dismantlers due to the large price difference when I priced them at the dealer. I picked them up for $25 used and if memory serves they were somewhere north of $80 new. And you are correct, the RR diff lock switch is not a momentary switch like the Trac switch. The trac switch is momentary which is why it doesn't stay in a position(depressed or pressed) it simply is spring loaded to return to normal position once you let go whereas the RR Diff lock switch maintains either an open circuit (depressed) or closed circuit (pressed).

EDIT: Here's the only numbers listed on the switch housing, not sure if they are part numbers though. (May help locating)

 

[sportrunner2001]

The diff lock switch seems way less complicated and makes me look like a blabbering idiot out:

 

[MStudt]

Unfortunately I do not have a part number, I got all my switches from local dismantlers due to the large price difference when I priced them at the dealer. I picked them up for $25 used and if memory serves they were somewhere north of $80 new. And you are correct, the RR diff lock switch is not a momentary switch like the Trac switch. The trac switch is momentary which is why it doesn't stay in a position(depressed or pressed) it simply is spring loaded to return to normal position once you let go whereas the RR Diff lock switch maintains either an open circuit (depressed) or closed circuit (pressed).

The diff lock switch seems way less complicated and makes me look like a blabbering idiot out:

Just bought one, and posted it up on my previous post. Found it on eBay with the pigtail, and free shipping fro $20. Saves me time and the headache.

 

[nor_cal51501]

Let me look, I may have taken pictures of my disassembly but I'm not 100% sure. It was fairly easy though. Just had to keep track of the little pieces as I was disassembling it. There's a small spring that you CAN NOT lose or the switch will stop rebounding. As far as the switch face, I made a label in Photoshop after measuring the switch face dimensions and printed it out, then placed it on the front of the face(double side taped it so it wouldn't move) and used a clear coat designed for plastic and layered directly over the new label and then used double side tape again to reattach the face of the switch to the switch housing. I still have my photoshop design when I made my DRL label if you're interested. Also, it's in red. My printer was out of color when I made my switch(bummed me out a lot) so it printed in white(well printed the surrounding in black and the lettering blank(white).

 

[98OzarksRunner]

My experience:
-switch ON (closed) = VSC/TRAC ON
-switch OFF (open) = VSC/TRAC OFF

now if your switch is OFF (open) while UNdepressed the style of relay posted in the other thread should be needed

You are correct (I verified it). Therefore, if the OP's original momentary switch works as he says (closed circuit and opens when pressed - 'When I release the button the ohm meter goes back to 1.') it SHOULD work as momentary (disables VSC until engine restarted) as it is with no relay needed.

Sorry for the confusion.:redface: