Andy MOD question

[sportrunner2001]

@MStust

First, Ignore my crappy paint work. Second, I think I figured it out.

I modified your diagram to what I think will work effectively. Your original had power going to the ECU wire instead of connecting the two sides back together during normal operation. The diagram I pulled of the internet shows 87A as being normally closed, thats what all the words below are based off of.

All the blue numbers are arbitrary because I made them just for clarification.

In OEM circumstances, #1 and #2 are connected, with #1 going who knows where and #2 going to the VSC module. By disconnecting, this achieves a disabling of said module.

In the internet diagram, 30 is connected to 87A (effectively closed), which is what we need. 87A(#5) must be connected to #1 to retain usage of VSC/TRAC. To open it, power needs to be supplied to the coil so it will connect 30 and 87. In this case 87 needs to have nothing connected to it, see #7, to break the connection. The power is provided by the switch being depressed. Connecting #3 & #4 powers the coil to move the relay to 87 (#7) for a long enough time to disable the VSC module.

Make sure the power going to the switch is fused! We don't want to see a melted 4Runner!

I hope this is right, I may be loopy since its past 4 am here.

 

[v3bahumut]

Terminals 85 and 86 are the activation coil for the relay
Terminal 30 is the common
Terminal 87a is normally closed
Terminal 87 is normally open

You will connect either 85 or 86 to ground, it doesn't matter which. Then connect the opposite to the button, then connect the opposite end of the button to fused power. Now when you press the button you should hear a slight "click" as the relay engages. Now take your wire from the ECU and cut it in the middle, spice a good amount of wire to both sides, connect one end (Doesn't matter which) from the ECU to terminal 30. Connect the other end to terminal 87a.

Start your truck, the traction should remain on (Light should stay off)

Hold the button for 5+ seconds and the traction should turn off (Light comes on)

Viola

 

[MStudt]

@MStust

First, Ignore my crappy paint work. Second, I think I figured it out.

I modified your diagram to what I think will work effectively. Your original had power going to the ECU wire instead of connecting the two sides back together during normal operation. The diagram I pulled of the internet shows 87A as being normally closed, thats what all the words below are based off of.

All the blue numbers are arbitrary because I made them just for clarification.

In OEM circumstances, #1 and #2 are connected, with #1 going who knows where and #2 going to the VSC module. By disconnecting, this achieves a disabling of said module.

In the internet diagram, 30 is connected to 87A (effectively closed), which is what we need. 87A(#5) must be connected to #1 to retain usage of VSC/TRAC. To open it, power needs to be supplied to the coil so it will connect 30 and 87. In this case 87 needs to have nothing connected to it, see #7, to break the connection. The power is provided by the switch being depressed. Connecting #3 & #4 powers the coil to move the relay to 87 (#7) for a long enough time to disable the VSC module.

Make sure the power going to the switch is fused! We don't want to see a melted 4Runner!

I hope this is right, I may be loopy since its past 4 am here.

This didn't do it.

Terminals 85 and 86 are the activation coil for the relay
Terminal 30 is the common
Terminal 87a is normally closed
Terminal 87 is normally open

You will connect either 85 or 86 to ground, it doesn't matter which. Then connect the opposite to the button, then connect the opposite end of the button to fused power. Now when you press the button you should hear a slight "click" as the relay engages. Now take your wire from the ECU and cut it in the middle, spice a good amount of wire to both sides, connect one end (Doesn't matter which) from the ECU to terminal 30. Connect the other end to terminal 87a.

Start your truck, the traction should remain on (Light should stay off)

Hold the button for 5+ seconds and the traction should turn off (Light comes on)

Viola

From just running fused power into the switch, then to terminal 86, and grounding 85. There is no click in the relay. Could it be that I have the wrong relay? I have a 192 Signal-stat from NAPA, and though this should work. It seems as if the relay isn't getting power. I can connect the ecu wires to 87 and 87a. These being the only two wires going to the relay and the dash lights do not come on. Now, If I connect fused power to 86, and ground 85. The switch does nothing, and makes no clicking noise. If I move the ecu to 30 & 87, ground it from 85, and supply fused power to 86. The dash lights remain on all the time.

This is a pain in the ass, but hopefully we'll figure it out. I'm thinking it has something to do with the relay itself.

 

[v3bahumut]

^^^For reference^^^

Ground pin 85 and take a live +12 volt to 86 with the relay in your hand. You should feel it and hear it click. If it doesn't then your relay is bad, you don't have +12 volts or your ground is bad.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

^^^For reference^^^

Ground pin 85 and take a live +12 volt to 86 with the relay in your hand. You should feel it and hear it click. If it doesn't then your relay is bad, you don't have +12 volts or your ground is bad.

This is correct, which is essentially what you had in post #31. As v3bahumut said, if you have 12V (which it sounds like since when you moved it the dash lights came - check it with a volt meter to make sure), make sure you have a good ground. If not you probably have a bad relay. You can check it by providing the 12V to pin 85 or 86 and grounding the other one (85 or 86), as v3bahumut said. It's possible you have a bad switch, but it doesn't sound like it since you checked it with an ohm meter. My guess would be bad ground, then bad relay.

Is the relay a 192D or 192-4. The 192-4 is a 24V relay, which won't work (long shot, but worth a shot).

 

[MStudt]

^^^For reference^^^

Ground pin 85 and take a live +12 volt to 86 with the relay in your hand. You should feel it and hear it click. If it doesn't then your relay is bad, you don't have +12 volts or your ground is bad.

I did this straight off the battery. Fused power from the battery to the switch, then to 86, and grounded 85 where the battery is grounded on the fender. Didn't hear and feel anything when I pressed the button. I even held the relay against my ear and nothing. I'll take this back and pick up a new one. Just making sure that a 192 signal stat relay is the correct relay I need?

 

[MStudt]

This is correct, which is essentially what you had in post #31. As v3bahumut said, if you have 12V (which it sounds like since when you moved it the dash lights came - check it with a volt meter to make sure), make sure you have a good ground. If not you probably have a bad relay. You can check it by providing the 12V to pin 85 or 86 and grounding the other one (85 or 86), as v3bahumut said. It's possible you have a bad switch, but it doesn't sound like it since you checked it with an ohm meter. My guess would be bad ground, then bad relay.

Is the relay a 192D or 192-4. The 192-4 is a 24V relay, which won't work (long shot, but worth a shot).

The relay I have says it's a 192D on the package, but only 192 on the relay itself. I've tried taking power straight from the battery and ground it to the ground on the fender just next to the battery. You can put the relay to your hear, and don't hear anything.

 

[MStudt]

The relay is good. I grounded 85 to the fender ground, and ran fused power to 86. The relay would click instantly when power was applied.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

The relay is good. I grounded 85 to the fender ground, and ran fused power to 86. The relay would click instantly when power was applied.

That probably means your ground it bad (or the switch, or you're using the wrong contacts on the switch).

 

[MStudt]

That probably means your ground it bad (or the switch, or you're using the wrong contacts on the switch).

I'm taking this thing step by step. When I put my fused power on 86 and grounded to the fender on 85. There is no click from the relay. I'm going to pick up a new add-a-fuse today and give it another shot.

 

[v3bahumut]

Do you have a multimeter to check that you have power coming from the add a fuse?

Did you pick an existing fuse that is switched with the ignition or always hot?

Did you remember to put a fuse in both slots of the add a fuse?

Are both fuses still good?

 

[v3bahumut]

Two fuses


add a fuse position


Ground at bottom of fuse panel bracket


My relay wiring


Short vid of it working with the guts pulled out:

 

[sportrunner2001]

The relay is good. I grounded 85 to the fender ground, and ran fused power to 86. The relay would click instantly when power was applied.

I'm taking this thing step by step. When I put my fused power on 86 and grounded to the fender on 85. There is no click from the relay. I'm going to pick up a new add-a-fuse today and give it another shot.

So the first post coming from the battery with a fuse on it I'm guessing? and the second is the add a fuse under the dash? It could be that your add a fuse location doesn't have a full 12V+, is flipped the wrong way, or just doesn't work. Take a multimeter as stated before and make sure you have the hot side of that fuse slot first while checking voltage at the same time with the vehicle in ACC and ON.

I must not have gone too wrong in the diagram this morning, thats what others have and you had one very similar at first. Just test every little piece of this wiring to make sure

 

[MStudt]

[MENTION=60096]sportrunner2001[/MENTION] [MENTION=92047]v3bahumut[/MENTION] [MENTION=59733]98OzarksRunner[/MENTION]

Picked up a new relay this morning, and it works. Five minutes to hook everything up, and the switch work perfectly.

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it!