Another getting rid of the JBL thread

Brian3676

New member
Slowly getting rid of the JBL sytem in my 08 4Runner. Got the following so far already installed:

-Pioneer 5600BHS receiver
-Infinity Primus PR6500cs in the front w/tweeter
-Infinity 6502ix 6.5" Coaxial Speakers in the back doors

I thought this would make it better, i'm not looking for anything crazy, just some nice clean sound. It is only slightly better :mad2: I guess I will be installing a new amp/sub and rear tweeters now and that will completely take out the JBL system. I get slightly confused here though.

Most talk about installing just a MONO amp for a sub (Im just going to install the JL 8" one in stock spot) and then a few install a 4 channel for the speakers. Why does no one use a 5 channel (4 channels for speakers with 5th being the sub)? Also, I get that the fronts and rears go to there obvious spots on the amp, but where does the center and rear tweeters get spliced into? The front or rear amp locations? Do I really need a 4 channel and a mono, or why not just use the 5 channel? I am thinking about this one: Amazon.com : Alpine PDR-V75 5-channel car amplifier - 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms : Car Electronics.

Any advice on what to install in the rear tweeter spots? Does not seem many mess with these :der:
 
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It all comes down personal preference, but I wouldn't even worry much about the rear hatch speakers, center or even the rear door speakers for that matter. Unless you are playing 5.1 surround sources, you aren't going to hear much of a difference using those speakers and they will just mess with getting good staging from the front.

Get a good 2ch amp and give your infinity speakers plenty of power. Power the rear door speakers off the HU amp for fill, but you can even set these quite low.

I deleted the rear hatch and center speakers and are just driving Focal 5.25 rear door speakers from the HU amp with a set of Rainbow 6.5 components up front. One JL Audio 2ch amp under the passenger seat to drive the rainbows and mono JL audio digital amp in the stock location to drive the sub.

I never really understood the car industry's fascination with putting speakers in every corner. Front staging sounds great in every seat in the vehicle if done right.
 
There is no reason for you not to use a 5 channel. People use a mono and a 4 channel is because of flexibility in the choice of power they need. You usually get more power for the money from each amp by going separate mono and multi - channel.

In order for you get more speakers working your gonna need more channels and amps. Just run fronts and rears. I run just the fronts and love it.

Alpine are great amps, I would suggest the Alpine PDX-V9. Does the same rated power 2-4 ohms.

I mount all my amps under my front seats. But to do this you need amps that are no longer than 12x10x2, w, l, h if you want everthing to be tucked in nicely.
 
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I went with a 5 channel amp in my 2007. Mounted in the old sub location behind the panel along with the crossovers for 2. Pairs of component speakers, front and rear using the factory mounting locations. Then the JL Stealthibox for a sub.

If you just want to have a center speaker you could always run that off the head unit, or use that place below the grill for an easy XM antenna location.
 
Did you guys run all new wires to each speaker from the amp or figure out the factory wire color code and just connect that to the amp?
 
It all comes down personal preference, but I wouldn't even worry much about the rear hatch speakers, center or even the rear door speakers for that matter. Unless you are playing 5.1 surround sources, you aren't going to hear much of a difference using those speakers and they will just mess with getting good staging from the front.

Get a good 2ch amp and give your infinity speakers plenty of power. Power the rear door speakers off the HU amp for fill, but you can even set these quite low.

I deleted the rear hatch and center speakers and are just driving Focal 5.25 rear door speakers from the HU amp with a set of Rainbow 6.5 components up front. One JL Audio 2ch amp under the passenger seat to drive the rainbows and mono JL audio digital amp in the stock location to drive the sub.

I never really understood the car industry's fascination with putting speakers in every corner. Front staging sounds great in every seat in the vehicle if done right.
this is good solid advice right here OP
another option would have been if you got some components up front with a rear acoustic fill on the crossover, you could have ran the comp set off a 2 channel amp and piggy backed off the crossover for the rear speakers.

for a simple setup you could use a 5 channel amp like you were asking about and save money and space. You should get a sound improvement when you add the aftermarket amp, depending on the amps stats(thd, rms etc).
[MENTION=99389]dropspace[/MENTION] how do those rainbows sound. Ive always heard good things about rainbow and have wanted to pick up some of there stuff. I just haven't needed to at this point. Im still running old school diamond audio subs and comps.
 
I was pretty blown away with the Rainbows. I just have the SLX ones which are their low end. These sound so good i'm not sure how it could get much better.

They are comparable to Focal in quality but where the Focals are very bright, these have a very balanced and natural sound. I'm running a nearly flat EQ and the sound is amazing.

They are hungry. I'm giving them 180W RMS per channel and they take nearly all of it.
 
I ran all new wires to the amps. Easiest way for me, but I'm just running front stage and sub. So it was only four sets of wires.
 
[MENTION=120292]Brian3676[/MENTION] check out this Metra 70-8117harness. I used it rather than running all new wires from my aftermarket amp to each individual speaker.

I saw this when researching, but for some reason it says it only works up to 06? Not sure what changed in 07-09 since there still the 4th gen with JBL...
 
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I never really understood the car industry's fascination with putting speakers in every corner. Front staging sounds great in every seat in the vehicle if done right.

Car companies don't car about SQ in a car, cause 95% of the consumers don't know what SQ is anyways. Most consumers think that if a car has a lot of speakers than it must sound great. They don't know stuff like imaging, soundstage, and instrument separation is. I also think that car companies put in a lot of speakers for compensation for the lack of sound treatment and deadening for road noise.
 
I have the same stereo.. I love it.. But the sound from the stock amp sucks.. I put 6.5 Mb quarts components in the rear.. They are too bright with tweeters.. I just wired it directly.. to the oem harness.. I need to use the xover that came with the Mb quarts... Im not sure if I like them yet.. That is why I have not installed aftermarket speakers in the front.. I amso have a 8'' sub in the rear.. MBquart low profile. Definitely not enough bump to the speaker.

Im not a audiophile, but my oem Acura TL bose sounds great, and full..
 
I have the same stereo.. I love it.. But the sound from the stock amp sucks.. I put 6.5 Mb quarts components in the rear.. They are too bright with tweeters.. I just wired it directly.. to the oem harness.. I need to use the xover that came with the Mb quarts... Im not sure if I like them yet.. That is why I have not installed aftermarket speakers in the front.. I amso have a 8'' sub in the rear.. MBquart low profile. Definitely not enough bump to the speaker.

Im not a audiophile, but my oem Acura TL bose sounds great, and full..

Pioneer is ahead of the pack in their budget line DD, right now. After years away from car audio, I just recently got back in, and bought a x2700bs, as part of my install. For being under $250, this thing has ass loads of tuning abilities and features.

Components need the crossovers, unless you have a processor or you can tune crossovers points on your HU. Right now your speakers are playing full range. Not good for speakers that aren't made to play that way. You are probably under powering them too. Which will also make them sound dead and lifeless, since the mid-range/mid-bass is not getting enough juice. Also you are probably under powering that sub too.

I suggest you do this. Put those components in the front with the crossover installed. Get a small 5ch amp for the sub and the fronts, put your stock rear door speakers back in and run them off the HU amp. If you really want rears speakers, get some cheap coaxials and run them off the other two channels that are left on the amp.

Edit: If those tweeters are still to bright after you install the crossovers, check to see if you can adjust speaker levels for the tweeter, on the crossover. Some crossovers lets you adjust, some don't.
 
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Pioneer is ahead of the pack in their budget line DD, right now. After years away from car audio, I just recently got back in, and bought a x2700bs, as part of my install. For being under $250, this thing has ass loads of tuning abilities and features.

Components need the crossovers, unless you have a processor or you can tune crossovers points on your HU. Right now your speakers are playing full range. Not good for speakers that aren't made to play that way. You are probably under powering them too. Which will also make them sound dead and lifeless, since the mid-range/mid-bass is not getting enough juice. Also you are probably under powering that sub too.

I suggest you do this. Put those components in the front with the crossover installed. Get a small 5ch amp for the sub and the fronts, put your stock rear door speakers back in and run them off the HU amp. If you really want rears speakers, get some cheap coaxials and run them off the other two channels that are left on the amp.

Edit: If those tweeters are still to bright after you install the crossovers, check to see if you can adjust speaker levels for the tweeter, on the crossover. Some crossovers lets you adjust, some don't.

Thanks for the Tip.. I was planning to just move the rears to the front and still run off the OEM amp.. And put cheaper components in the back. I am very sure they are under powered in the rear. All my vehicles before was powered with a aftermarket AMP. I thought the OEM amp would do it half the justice. My current situation right now is I have a 10month old that takes up all my time.. It took me a while to find a day to install the HU and wire the backup camera and such.. Before he was born I spent 3hours detailing my vehicles. How I have to plan nap times so I can take a sh!t. lol

So I will likely just move the components first and see if it sounds better if not, Ill look into a aftermarket amp.

Is there anyway to bridge the wiring on the oem amp to add more juice to power up the the rears or Sub at least.?? Id hate to just toss it. Also what is a decent priced AMP. I been out of audio a long time.
 
Thanks for the Tip.. I was planning to just move the rears to the front and still run off the OEM amp.. And put cheaper components in the back. I am very sure they are under powered in the rear. All my vehicles before was powered with a aftermarket AMP. I thought the OEM amp would do it half the justice. My current situation right now is I have a 10month old that takes up all my time.. It took me a while to find a day to install the HU and wire the backup camera and such.. Before he was born I spent 3hours detailing my vehicles. How I have to plan nap times so I can take a sh!t. lol

So I will likely just move the components first and see if it sounds better if not, Ill look into a aftermarket amp.

Is there anyway to bridge the wiring on the oem amp to add more juice to power up the the rears or Sub at least.?? Id hate to just toss it. Also what is a decent priced AMP. I been out of audio a long time.
The best thing is to take that stock amp out of the equation altogether to be honest. I ended up with a mono amp for the sub, and I got a compact 4 channel Kenwood amp for the rest of the speakers. The compact amps put out about 45 watts per channel RMS, but have much cleaner sound than the stock amp did. I used the stock sub box, placed a Kicker DVC sub into it, ran a small mono (200 RMS) amp to it and the compact amp. Sounds fantastic to me, and it definitely did not break the bank!
 
To me, adding rear speakers is not necessary. All it does is mess with your sound stage. If you have a good front stage setup, people in the rear will be able to hear too.

I would just leave the rear speakers stock and fade it in and out. Plus thats two sets of wires that you don't have to run.

What is your price range for an amp?
 
Cheaper the better.. I see the kenwood mentioned above.. Is about 100 bucks..

Im not sure about the cheaper amps "pyle" etc 50 bucks.. but I dont want to replace or have it under rated either.

Before I always used fosgate amps and was happy.. But I dont need or care to have loud speakers anymore.. Im old. Almost embarrassing now if people in other vehicles hear what I listen to..:lalala: But I do like the idea of not having wires to run and can store it under the dash somewhere hidden.

To me, adding rear speakers is not necessary. All it does is mess with your sound stage. If you have a good front stage setup, people in the rear will be able to hear too.

I would just leave the rear speakers stock and fade it in and out. Plus thats two sets of wires that you don't have to run.

What is your price range for an amp?
 
I was debating just installing one of the Alpine amps thats 45watts RMS per channel and a mono for the sub. Cheapest option I think. Wanting to push a little more that 45w though to my speakers is the only down side. For the price tho.... I may just settle and do it. I had one in my old car and it was great. The
KTP-445U you can just run RCA wires from the deck to the unit and then splice in the speakers from there.

Another question though, when you guys run aftermarket amps I assume you get rid of the adapter you use when installing a deck to make it work with the factory amp?


http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-44...TF8&qid=1426875786&sr=8-3&keywords=alpine+amp
 

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