Another Manual Transmission Swap Question

[xcmtb83]

Well the local pick and pull just got in a '96 MT V6 with only 167,000 miles. These things are a unicorn especially where I live! I secretly wish the automatic in my '96 was going out so it would make the decision to do do a manual swap an easy one. Well in the meantime as I think about it I would like to snag the hard-to-find/discontinued parts before the vultures get into it and destroy much of it. I figure this way I won't be hung up on some stupid little interior part or something else, I already grabbed the discontinued shifter boot and plastic surround and clutch start cancel switch with pigtail. Oh, and of course the elocker axle assy. I think I will go back and get the ECM. Is there anything else I should grab? Thanks!

 

[rkntoy]

Nothing to do with the manual swap - but there are quite a few people who would pay for those front mud flaps and the clips that how the flares on the back doors.

 

[xcmtb83]

Nothing to do with the manual swap - but there are quite a few people who would pay for those front mud flaps and the clips that how the flares on the back doors.

I was thinking the same thing. Supposedly the passenger side is still available (I haven't personally confirmed), it is the driver side that is nearly impossible to find and of course the driver side is completely destroyed on this 4Runner.

 

[Team_Jake]

I’ll also be swapping in a 5-speed, but in my ‘99 Limited. I went to the salvage yard last weekend, these were all the parts I picked:

• Transmission (obviously, be sure to keep the reverse light switch)
• Transmission Mount (pretty sure the Auto/Manual mounts are different)
• Transfer Case (only because it’s easier to remove them all as one unit, I’ll actually be keeping my Multi-Mode transfer case)
• Flywheel (the OEM flywheel is leagues better than any aftermarket one, just get a machine shop to re-surface it)
• Master/Slave Cylinder (grab the hydraulic lines if they are in good shape)
• Clutch Pedal Assembly (with the clutch release/depress switches)
• Brake Pedal (just the pedal and boot, the auto/manuals are different sizes)
• Clutch Start Cancel Switch
• Shifter Interior Pieces, Boots, etc.
• Starter (I think the Auto/Manual starters are different, the manual is 1.4kW and the auto is 1.8kW from my understanding, they may be interchangeable, not sure)
• Pressure Plate Bolts (not sure if new clutch kits come with the bolts or not, I grabbed them just in case)
• ECU (unless you want a permanent CEL).

Obviously it’s best to pick as much as you can. Going back to your thread question OP I would just be sure to get the flywheel and ECU, both can be very difficult to find online.

 

[xcmtb83]

I’ll also be swapping in a 5-speed, but in my ‘99 Limited. I went to the salvage yard last weekend, these were all the parts I picked:

• Transmission (obviously, be sure to keep the reverse light switch)
• Transmission Mount (pretty sure the Auto/Manual mounts are different)
• Transfer Case (only because it’s easier to remove them all as one unit, I’ll actually be keeping my Multi-Mode transfer case)
• Flywheel (the OEM flywheel is leagues better than any aftermarket one, just get a machine shop to re-surface it)
• Master/Slave Cylinder (grab the hydraulic lines if they are in good shape)
• Clutch Pedal Assembly (with the clutch release/depress switches)
• Brake Pedal (just the pedal and boot, the auto/manuals are different sizes)
• Clutch Start Cancel Switch
• Shifter Interior Pieces, Boots, etc.
• Starter (I think the Auto/Manual starters are different, the manual is 1.4kW and the auto is 1.8kW from my understanding, they may be interchangeable, not sure)
• Pressure Plate Bolts (not sure if new clutch kits come with the bolts or not, I grabbed them just in case)
• ECU (unless you want a permanent CEL).

Obviously it’s best to pick as much as you can. Going back to your thread question OP I would just be sure to get the flywheel and ECU, both can be very difficult to find online.

Awesome reply!

Yes, the starters are different kW ratings. I believe the 1.8kW is overkill but will work just fine for a manual. They did this just because the autos require more torque to overcome the transmission fluid especially in colder climates is my guess.

What is the item to the left of the clutch start cancel switch?

 

[Team_Jake]

What is the item to the left of the clutch start cancel switch?

It's just the 4 wires that connect to the clutch start cancel switch.

 

[xcmtb83]

How about the driveshafts, are they the same length?

 

[nc-grayson]

How about the driveshafts, are they the same length?

nope

I will say if you have the means and space, buying the whole thing as a parts truck will make your swap easier when the time comes. Part out what you want/can in your down time....and not have to search up and down for one or two lonely forgotten parts from when you first started the parts search

 

[xcmtb83]

I know the rear is different, front too?

 

[xcmtb83]

Are these console pieces unique to a manual trans console?

 

[T4R2014]

Are these console pieces unique to a manual trans console?

No, but get those front mud flaps ASAP. Very rare.

 

[tonyromojr]

Any reason why you want to have the MT?
I have the MT and it's such a slow vehicle. The distance between shifting gears takes forever and with the weight of the vehicle it takes a while for it to get going.

 

[xcmtb83]

No, but get those front mud flaps ASAP. Very rare.

Only the passenger side is good. I think it is the driver side that is no longer available. Can you confirm this?

 

[MaineRunna]

Buy the whole 4Runner. Pre 98 manual and auto had different ECM electrical connectors. You will need the wiring harnesses. I just went through this I put a 98 body on my 97 frame, both were 5spds. In 98 Toyota made the manual ECM have the same connectors as the auto ECM. Prior to that manuals and automatics had different shaped plugs at the ECM.

 

[kolelt]

I’ll also be swapping in a 5-speed, but in my ‘99 Limited. I went to the salvage yard last weekend, these were all the parts I picked:

• Transmission (obviously, be sure to keep the reverse light switch)
• Transmission Mount (pretty sure the Auto/Manual mounts are different)
• Transfer Case (only because it’s easier to remove them all as one unit, I’ll actually be keeping my Multi-Mode transfer case)
• Flywheel (the OEM flywheel is leagues better than any aftermarket one, just get a machine shop to re-surface it)
• Master/Slave Cylinder (grab the hydraulic lines if they are in good shape)
• Clutch Pedal Assembly (with the clutch release/depress switches)
• Brake Pedal (just the pedal and boot, the auto/manuals are different sizes)
• Clutch Start Cancel Switch
• Shifter Interior Pieces, Boots, etc.
• Starter (I think the Auto/Manual starters are different, the manual is 1.4kW and the auto is 1.8kW from my understanding, they may be interchangeable, not sure)
• Pressure Plate Bolts (not sure if new clutch kits come with the bolts or not, I grabbed them just in case)
• ECU (unless you want a permanent CEL).

Obviously it’s best to pick as much as you can. Going back to your thread question OP I would just be sure to get the flywheel and ECU, both can be very difficult to find online.

They are interchangeable. My starter that came with my auto. Still stock running strong with my manual swap. Don’t over think it dude. !

 

[kolelt]

Buy the whole 4Runner. Pre 98 manual and auto had different ECM electrical connectors. You will need the wiring harnesses. I just went through this I put a 98 body on my 97 frame, both were 5spds. In 98 Toyota made the manual ECM have the same connectors as the auto ECM. Prior to that manuals and automatics had different shaped plugs at the ECM.

It’s pretty easy to repin the harness without needing to swap the whole harness.

 

[xcmtb83]

nope

I will say if you have the means and space, buying the whole thing as a parts truck will make your swap easier when the time comes. Part out what you want/can in your down time....and not have to search up and down for one or two lonely forgotten parts from when you first started the parts search

Unfortunately once the vehicle is placed in the yard it can't be sold complete. The good news is they just placed it on Thursday.

 

[xcmtb83]

Any reason why you want to have the MT?
I have the MT and it's such a slow vehicle. The distance between shifting gears takes forever and with the weight of the vehicle it takes a while for it to get going.

Just for the cool factor I guess. I own two 1st gen Tacomas and they are both V6 manual transmission trucks so I know what to expect. I am undecided about the swap TBH but if I don't get these parts now I won't have another chance. These trucks are not common at all where I am. I am also have tempted to scrounge up all the parts required for a MT swap and if I decide I don't want to do it or if my automatic keeps trucking along forever then that just means I have an extra transmission for my Tacomas.

 

[T4R2014]

Only the passenger side is good. I think it is the driver side that is no longer available. Can you confirm this?

All pieces have been unavailable since 2014.

 

[MaineRunna]

It’s pretty easy to repin the harness without needing to swap the whole harness.

There are a lot of things to consider. Not only are auto and manual wiring harnesses different, but just from 97 to 98 the manual wiring harnesses are different. I just did a body swap from 97 to 98, both SR5 3.4L 5spds and one thing that was a problem was that the clutch safety switch on the 97 provides the ground to the starter relay, in 98 it provides the power to the relay. Took me a while to figure out why the starter fuse kept blowing every time I stepped on the clutch. I used my 97 engine wiring harness because the 98 was missing the engine and harness. It would not plug into the 98 ECM. I put in my 97 ECM, but the one connector from the dash harness wouldn't plug into it. Cut off connector from my 97 body, but there were a few different wires and I ended up with no start, no comms. Swapped in my 97 dash harness had comms with the ECM, but no crank now. Found out about the clutch switch and rewired the fuse box. Now the engine would start, but I had to re-pin the connectors behind the kick panels because the passenger side was completely different and wouldn't plug in and the driver's side was the same, but the wires were arranged differently in the connector.