Another no start problem

[AHTex]

Hey all,
Long time listener, first time caller here. I have a 97 runner with the 2.7 , 3rz fe. 4cyl 2wd with about 240,000 miles on her. I had an oil leak, probably the front seal and put it on the shelf for 2-3 years. So I finally have some time to start working on it and it wont start. Got spark but no fuel. So I started with running through the electrical and have no power at the 4 and 5 pins on the fp connector. So great I dont have to drop the tank! However, my COR relay tests good, and I believe thats the last stop before the fp. What am I missing? I just ordered the fsm, but this seems like a "not in a book" problem. Anyhow to my understanding the fp doesnt really run until the engine is cranking. Ive been having the dreaded click on my starter, and while testing for voltage at the fp, it appears my solenoid welded closed finally and I had to disconnect power to stop it from cranking. (Scared the crap outta my neighbor which was worth it!) So short story long. After I rebuild the starter and reinstall, what could be the cause of my no power to the fp problem be? Thanks for any help, im scratching my head here.

 

[Toyotayoda]

ECM will only turn on fuel pump when it sees engine rpm, perhaps you have a bad crankshaft position sensor, or unplugged it during the oil pump cover repair.

 

[AHTex]

Yeah ill have to ck it out. My question is though, if I get power to the cor relay. And the relay is good, why dont I see power at the fp. Whats inbetween?

 

[IBallEngineer]

Yeah ill have to ck it out. My question is though, if I get power to the cor relay. And the relay is good, why dont I see power at the fp. Whats inbetween?

Well you aren't telling the whole story. Power to the relay means absolutely nothing to the relay if there is no activation. TWO of the terminals on the relay must have power, one is supplied voltage by the EFI relay, that is Term 5 White w/Blue stripe. The other is supplied by 10A Ign fuse at Term 1, Black with blue wire. Term 3 is the output to the pump, you could jump power to that terminal and listen for the fuel pump, or have a test light on the connector you already tested, Term 4 at the pump Blue/with orange wire.

The last part of the equation, and most likely what you are missing is Term 2 on the COR relay, Green with yellow. This wire is grounded by the ECU, activating the relay and allowing power to go out Term 3 to the pump.
op2:

 

[4Reak Show]

To specifically answer your question: Diagram shows a junction block near the steering column

 

[TheDurk]

Try this diagram:

 

[TheDurk]

You need to verify whether you have output power on term 3 of the COR as the Great California [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] has opined. This will only occur when the engine is cranking or running. Verify this, and then we can trace it in detail through Pins 2 and 3 on Plug 3A of the Center Junction Box and then through Connector IE2 in the left kick panel on Pin 16 (always Blue-orange wire).

This shows where Plug 3A is on Page 24:

 

[AHTex]

Hey all, thanks for the info. After I get the starter back in and ck for power coming out of the cor, ill report back.

 

[AHTex]

Before getting to the fuel pump, I have a starter question. I believe the solenoid is welded closed but want to verify. As I mentioned when checking for power at the fp, my starter stayed engaged and wouldnt cut off until I disconnected the battery. I tried first removing the starter relay, but it kept cranking, then went ahead and removed the negative cable from the battery. Shouldnt removing the relay have cut power and stopped the starter? As you can tell, automotive electrical is not my strong point. Im a refrigeration mechanic and can diagnose some complicated AC circuits, but automotive DC is a completely different animal.