(Another) Starter Contacts Removal Thread!

[jasonochs25]

I can get mine out in about 20 minutes not including removing the tire. I cant remember if I did or not when I did it, I dont think I did. Ive only done it once. The TRANS dipstick tube comes apart to allow it to come through the wheel well. Stupid easy. It looks hard but its really easy

 

[redstar]

I just took mine out and replaced the contacts today. What a b***h that was on my rust bucket. I had to remove the transmission dipstick and the sway bar body mounts. I have no idea how anyone managed through the wheel well... Figured I'd summarize everything I've read:

Our 3rd gens come with either a 1.4kW or 1.8kW starter. From what I have gathered, the 1.4kW is for manuals and the 1.8kW is for autos. Some of the part #s below might have changed, but these #s should get you there.

The 1.4kW starter is Toyota part #28100-62050, Denso part #228000-5300(I think).
It's plunger is Toyota part #28235-55050.
It's motor contact is Toyota part #28226-74070.
It's battery contact is Toyota part #28226-64200.
The Victory Lap ND-34SOL is for the 1.4kW starter.
The Dorman 02349 Starter Rebuild Kit *might* work for the 1.4kW starter.

The 1.8kW starter is Toyota part #28100-62030, Denso part #228000-4083.
It's plunger is Toyota part #28235-54380.
It's motor contact is Toyota part #28226-72010.
It's battery contact is Toyota part #28226-54380.
The Victory Lap ND-36SOL is for the 1.8kW starter.

The Victory Lap ND-36SOL plunger has a larger diameter contact which is nice, it also has a bunch of different contacts in the box so I used one that was slightly bigger than the original. Pictures below.

EDIT:
I just took mine apart again because it wouldn't chooch. Turns out that the FSM has some instructions that fixed my problem. You're supposed to press the contacts into the starter using small wooden block and a hand press @ 981 N. Then, while they're pressed down, tighten the terminal nuts to 17 Nm. I used a vise and calculated the approximate force(neglected friction) I needed to apply to the end of the handle to get the right pressure on the contacts.

Side note:
I took the whole starter apart to check for other mechanical or electrical issues. It all looked brand new; the brushes had less than a half mm of wear(over 18 years!). These beauties are built to last, so if you think your starting problems are caused by the starter motor, you're probably wrong.

 

[Hacker]

Well, looks like I have to get on this train, too. Been having the click....click....start problem for about 9 months, and is starting to get to the point where I've gotta fix it.

Thanks to you fellas, I ordered the Victory Lap rebuild kit for my '99 Limited.

Appreciate all the effort in the pics and writeups of how to do this!

 

[okamotos]

Thanks OP and others here on this thread. My '97 usually turned over after 3-5 tries, but yesterday it didn't until after ~15 tries - which was a little worrisome. Ordered the ~$12 kit off Amazon (search for B0031HMS7C) and swapped out the plunger and 1 contact. You're going to get dirty and it's a PITA to get to those bolts. I'd allocate at least a couple hours for this one.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My build and repair thread shows the exact position to remove the starter through the fender well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[slampe]

2.5 hours and $7

Well, I wrote checks that my starter wasn't willing to cash and found my 4Runner stranded in my office parking lot. Had to take shuttles to the airport, but in the interim, I was able to order the parts and wrap my head around the fix.

Thanks to everyone who has posted information on this thread - it would have been impossible for me without the step-by-step.

It took me 2.5 hours to get this project finished and the 4Runner running. I'd consider myself "light intermediate" in mechanical skills. The hardest part of this project is accessing bolts and pins/clips on the starter, exhaust plate, etc. The contact replacement was maybe 5 minutes of the total project - and I have a West coast, rust free 4Runner.

Thankful to have this as a resource!

 

[JHILDE]

It's finally time, going to pick up the parts tomorrow from the dealer. We have more than one vehicle so it's not a big deal to not have to drive it. It took 3-4 times to get it to start yesterday so I'll just drive something else and not chance it. With 438,000 miles on it (ok 437,960) I got the plunger too, I figure it needs replacement as well.

 

[Teedeejr]

EDIT:
I just took mine apart again because it wouldn't chooch. Turns out that the FSM has some instructions that fixed my problem. You're supposed to press the contacts into the starter using small wooden block and a hand press @ 981 N. Then, while they're pressed down, tighten the terminal nuts to 17 Nm. I used a vise and calculated the approximate force(neglected friction) I needed to apply to the end of the handle to get the right pressure on the contacts.

Ok - doing this tomorrow and just saw this method listed above. I really haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere (or I missed it). Has any one installed the contacts like this or just winged it? I don’t have a vice or hand press.

Any thoughts on using them to get the contacts seated correctly?

Thanks and wish me luck. I think I’ll be able to come straight down with it.

 

[Teedeejr]

Well, the jobs done! 3.5 hours from start to finish. I did not find what i was expecting when i got the starter out. I was able to come straight down with it so that was nice.

The PO replaced the lovely Denso starter with a World Class Remanufactured (Remy) 17239, and what a POS. Filthy inside b/c there was no rubber interior gasket, the plunger wasn't able to make contact, not because the "much" smaller shaped battery side contact was worn down, but because both contacts and plunger were covered in grime. Also when i took the cheap heat cover off the engine side bolt it pretty much crumbled to pieces. I had to zip tie it back on.

The parts were $20 and i save $340 on installation of a remanufactured starter at my local shop. But at this rate, i would've bought a Denso reman directly from Denso and just did a swap.

She starts right up now, but now i know why I've always had this weird hesitation upon starting (not very strong). I just assumed it was a Toyota starter and I'd have to kinda juice the gas while turning the key.

Anyway I guess the moral is verify the starter first before you start this process then you can decide your best course of action.

 

[Jason B]

Nice job. Yea, I've rebuilt mine twice in 20 years. OEM is great quality and just swap in new contacts. I'm still on factory plunger. I don't think that needs changed.

 

[Ali.S]

Just the shipping on the CPI site is INSANE $13.00

Instead just use the following parts from Toyota. The total is around $21+7ish shipping.

OEM Toyota part numbers are below.

Kit Repair Service
Part #28226-74070
Kit Repair Service
Part #28226-22050

Both 1.4 and 1.8 kilowatt starters have the same selenoid mechanism so same part numbers.

Separate part number for each side. Repaired 96 3.4 manual trans.

 

[castironman]

thank you.

Hello, Tim, thank you for your post, just want to make sure that part from ebay fits on a 2000 4runner automatic 4x4, I belive I have the 1.8Kw starter, was never replaced, did the click last week. Also did you see this ball bearing that I keep hearing about in another posts ? One picture shows in the hole where the plunger goes into after the return spring. Man , thank you for your video and posts you helped a lot.:trophy:

 

[mtbtim]

Hello, Tim, thank you for your post, just want to make sure that part from ebay fits on a 2000 4runner automatic 4x4, I belive I have the 1.8Kw starter, was never replaced, did the click last week. Also did you see this ball bearing that I keep hearing about in another posts ? One picture shows in the hole where the plunger goes into after the return spring. Man , thank you for your video and posts you helped a lot.:trophy:

You have the 1.8kw starter since you have an automatic. That kit we link in the video will work for your starter. I don't know anything about the ball bearing. Do have a picture that shows it? I don't feel like looking through this whole thread to find what you're talking about.

 

[itskohler]

Just did this today, had every intention of following Tim's video (he makes everything look so easy) but it didn't pan out. I could not get the trans dipstick out, tried abry trick in the book but it wouldn't budge. Instead I did the contact and plunger swap in the engine bay. Huge pain in butt, shouldn't have to go back in there for years...hopefully!

 

[Mikejohns86]

Exhaust Pipe Bracket

Is it possible to do this without removing the exhaust pipe bracket. Could of swore a year and a half ago my buddy and I did it without removing that bracket. Must of not done a good job because since the lower bolt had backed out and fallen out somewhere while driving.

I ordered a new lower bolt and as I'm trying to feed it into the bell housing the exhaust bracket is in the way. I tried removing the bracket but 2 of the bolts are seized up. I've used pb blaster and a torch but can't get them out.

 

[Jason B]

Yes it's possible, just a but of rubix cube fiddling.

 

[TheDurk]

Is it possible to do this without removing the exhaust pipe bracket. Could of swore a year and a half ago my buddy and I did it without removing that bracket. Must of not done a good job because since the lower bolt had backed out and fallen out somewhere while driving.

I ordered a new lower bolt and as I'm trying to feed it into the bell housing the exhaust bracket is in the way. I tried removing the bracket but 2 of the bolts are seized up. I've used pb blaster and a torch but can't get them out.

It's totally unnecessary on a Cali-type 2 cat exhaust. The one cat pre-2001 Fed type have a different bracket that makes it more complicated.