Antman
Elite Member
How many times have I told you "You da man!"?
ANTMAN'S Thread
- Thread starter Antman
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How many times have I told you "You da man!"?
Jhalko
New member
Easy now, Pat is going to get jealous. :jump:
Sleeter
New member
At least twice.:lock1:
Antman
Elite Member
lol- I dunno. I get a lot of use out of the latest version of my rear storage unit and fridge slide-out. I guess it would have to be that.
brundenbak
New member
This is a helluva thread! ;-)
Titanpat57
Senior Member
Must run in the family....
That's all your wife sceams when I come down to visit while you're sitting in that stupid boat getting sunburnt and drowning worms...
Nice couch......:hello:
Diver Deuce
New member
I'd say it was probably his dent mods and bumper tear mod... this all happened at the Cove trip.
WODWorldWide
New member
Check it out!
My Duratracs (265's E range) have 80,000 miles on them and they still have lots of tread left! That's remarkable to me. They performed great at the Cove a few weeks back, with plenty of traction. Overall, these tires have been wonderful. Great traction in all conditions; dry, wet, snow, mud, dirt, gravel- they just ate it up with no issue at all.
So...why am I replacing them? Well, they have gotten to a point where they just cannot be balanced properly. There are hunks of tread missing from crawling over sharp rocks. They are also LOUD!!! The edge of the tread is now scalloped. The truck literally shakes and surges from side to side when creeping along at idle. 80,000 miles though- I'm not complaining! If I didn't have an hour drive each way to work they would still be on there, but I just couldn't take it anymore. It was honestly hard to hold a conversation while on the highway due to the noise, lol.
Enter the 285 BFG KO2's- E load. Tire Rack has an incredible deal on these right now- especially if you pick them up at one of their warehouses (no shipping cost). Go check it out, you won't believe the price! Best I could find by about $300!!!
These ride really nice- very quiet and smooth. I did some fender-liner trimming as expected and I think I got rid of the rub...
Don't they look great?! My buddy Brad at work even mounted the tires so the white lettering is centered over the valve stem on all the wheels.:thumb:
Hopefully these will get me past 200,000!
Just noticed this. I did the same thing Friday. Got rid of my 265 duratracs with 65k on them for some 285 K02s. Can you post a photo of where you trimmed. Mine is rubbing a bit on reverse at full lock.
It feels like driving a new truck. Everything rides nicer and quieter and it got rid of half of my rattles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Antman
Elite Member
Dude- if you saw the amount of plastic I have trimmed off the front of my 4Runner you would probably just throw up.
I'm well past the old nip and tuck. Lol
Antman
Elite Member
Ya know, I get a LOT of PM's...:boom:
[MENTION=145202]n2advnture[/MENTION] sent me a message asking me for more info about my fridge slide and slide-out-cutting-board-table-thingy. I figured I would just post it up rather than have to explain it over and over, lol.
I didn't originally post this stuff because I "designed" it as I went along. My dad was a measure 3 times, cut once type of guy. I'm more like, make it bigger than it has to be and sand it till it's perfect type of guy, I drove him nuts with that, lol. Don't ever expect detailed plans with measurements from me- all I usually have is ratty scribblings on graph paper...
Anyways- Here are some pics and explanations.
The tray without the fridge. I originally made this without the carpet, but the carpet helps the fridge stay put and keeps things quiet.
My cheap Home Depot "Heavy Duty" drawer slides. They work just fine, but have excessive side/side movement when fully extended. If you can swing it, go with the best slides you can find!
This is underneath the slide. Basically I made a framework and the top is glued/screwed to it. The cutting board and front of the slide are made from Starboard (tapplastics.com cheapest!). The reason I made the front of the slide starboard is so I could mount a bottle opener on there, along with other stuff, and it won't ever chip or splinter. When the slide is open, the bottle opener is accessible.
Some pics of the cutting board. I wanted it to slide smooth without the need for drawer slides, yet stay firmly in place when open/closed. Starboard is slippery, so the board rests firmly against the top and is held in place by a steel tube. By tapering the cut on the starboard, it has a natural stop and stays in place when extended. Simple and effective.
See the light colored groove in the wood behind the cutting board? There is a screw mounted in the cutting board that is making that groove. I used this to get the correct "tension" so the slide is smooth but not loose. this has to be figured out before you install the tube. Just mess with it a bit!
Here you can see the steel tube that keeps the cutting board secure. It's important that it's tight against the board to be effective! The board is fully extended here. The extra material behind the tube is there for support.
These are the aluminum brackets I made to secure the fridge tie-downs- One front and one back.
This bracket helps to manage the power cord and keeps it from getting pinched or cut. The hole is big enough for the plug to pass through easily.
My not-so-elegent slider lock. This fits into holes under the top. 1 hole to keep it closed and one to keep it open. It's very important to have this- especially when you open the hatch on an incline! You don't want 100# of loaded fridge flying back at you. This works great, but kinda ghetto, lol.
Hope this helps! A/M OUT!
[MENTION=145202]n2advnture[/MENTION] sent me a message asking me for more info about my fridge slide and slide-out-cutting-board-table-thingy. I figured I would just post it up rather than have to explain it over and over, lol.
I didn't originally post this stuff because I "designed" it as I went along. My dad was a measure 3 times, cut once type of guy. I'm more like, make it bigger than it has to be and sand it till it's perfect type of guy, I drove him nuts with that, lol. Don't ever expect detailed plans with measurements from me- all I usually have is ratty scribblings on graph paper...
Anyways- Here are some pics and explanations.
The tray without the fridge. I originally made this without the carpet, but the carpet helps the fridge stay put and keeps things quiet.
My cheap Home Depot "Heavy Duty" drawer slides. They work just fine, but have excessive side/side movement when fully extended. If you can swing it, go with the best slides you can find!
This is underneath the slide. Basically I made a framework and the top is glued/screwed to it. The cutting board and front of the slide are made from Starboard (tapplastics.com cheapest!). The reason I made the front of the slide starboard is so I could mount a bottle opener on there, along with other stuff, and it won't ever chip or splinter. When the slide is open, the bottle opener is accessible.
Some pics of the cutting board. I wanted it to slide smooth without the need for drawer slides, yet stay firmly in place when open/closed. Starboard is slippery, so the board rests firmly against the top and is held in place by a steel tube. By tapering the cut on the starboard, it has a natural stop and stays in place when extended. Simple and effective.
See the light colored groove in the wood behind the cutting board? There is a screw mounted in the cutting board that is making that groove. I used this to get the correct "tension" so the slide is smooth but not loose. this has to be figured out before you install the tube. Just mess with it a bit!
Here you can see the steel tube that keeps the cutting board secure. It's important that it's tight against the board to be effective! The board is fully extended here. The extra material behind the tube is there for support.
These are the aluminum brackets I made to secure the fridge tie-downs- One front and one back.
This bracket helps to manage the power cord and keeps it from getting pinched or cut. The hole is big enough for the plug to pass through easily.
My not-so-elegent slider lock. This fits into holes under the top. 1 hole to keep it closed and one to keep it open. It's very important to have this- especially when you open the hatch on an incline! You don't want 100# of loaded fridge flying back at you. This works great, but kinda ghetto, lol.
Hope this helps! A/M OUT!
Last edited:
n2advnture
New member
Thanks a TON! :thumb:
Sleeter
New member
Don't ask for that! He will send you a bunch of pictures of guys in banana hammocks... not that there's anything wrong with that.
[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]
Antman
Elite Member
You're funny.
Jhalko
New member
Just shoot him a PM. :whip2:
Antman
Elite Member
Your practice at being a total Dick is beginning to pay off!
Jhalko
New member
Only out of love!
