Any suggestion for taking out rear drum?

D

dominopizza

New member
I have no more option to pull this f#*@* drums.

tried hammering and torching but no success. So, i've

tried screw method and behold, screw hole got cracked on both side

and screw won't go in any more........

i think my only option is to cut the portion of top and bottom back plating then

pull it out with jaw puller. but the problem is i can't seem to find any jaw puller

that has spread of 13.5 inches to feet the drum. any suggestions?
 

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Spray some WD-40 through the holes and let it sit for a day or two. Spray in between too. With a rubber mallet, tap the drum on all areas.

You said the extractor screw hole got cracked? Did you use a 12 mm metric bolt?
 
Have you tried gently massaging it with a hammer to crack it loose? It's likely just surface rusted on like mine were and a couple raps did the trick.
 
If the drum is bound by the hub, then more pounding is in order. Hit repeatedly between each of the wheel studs on the face of the hub. Don't pound on the outer perimeter surface of the drum.

If the drum is bound around the outer circumference, your shoes are probably catching a lip that has developed in the drum from wear by the shoes. You have to perform this procedure from the slot (with the oblong rubber plug) in the backing plate.
Brake drum removal

Be patient. It will come off.
 
it was 12mm bolt and i've used rubber mallets to hit all sides for 2 hours..... hitting won't do anything at this point. and i've used screw drivers from the back to tighten the drum brake all the way.... ok,,, i'm just gonna run to harbor freight and buy a jaw puller and makeshift it so i can fit it to my drum.... if I can take this off, i'm gonna grind all the rust and anti seize the crap out that drum
 
Riceye said:
If you tightened the drum brake all the way, you're doing it wrong. You need to turn the adjuster the other way and loosen the drum brake. The drum should turn freely.
Click to expand...

OP, unless you misspoke, what [MENTION=92690]Riceye[/MENTION] said is spot on. You need to turn the adjuster wheel the opposite direction. The direction you're able to turn the adjuster without getting a screwdriver or similar tool through the access hole to push the self-adjuster plate away from the star wheel is tightening. Once you get a tool in there to push the plate away from the star wheel, you can now turn the star wheel in the opposite direction loosening the adjuster thus backing off the shoes from the drum.

This video will help explain what I just said:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vPiJHIMWvIA" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Have patience, WD40 in all of the front holes & hub. LOOSEN the shoes from the inside gear & use a metal hammer on the drum not rubber. I had shoes welded to the drum with rust on an axle that sat for 2 years & still got it off.

There's at least 3 great videos on youtube for the 3rd gen 4runner & 100's for drum breaks in general.
 
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mtbtim said:
OP, unless you misspoke, what [MENTION=92690]Riceye[/MENTION] said is spot on. You need to turn the adjuster wheel the opposite direction. The direction you're able to turn the adjuster without getting a screwdriver or similar tool through the access hole to push the self-adjuster plate away from the star wheel is tightening. Once you get a tool in there to push the plate away from the star wheel, you can now turn the star wheel in the opposite direction loosening the adjuster thus backing off the shoes from the drum.

This video will help explain what I just said:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vPiJHIMWvIA" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Click to expand...

Your video helped me big time when I did my rear brake over haul. :rockon:
 
dominopizza said:
it was 12mm bolt and i've used rubber mallets to hit all sides for 2 hours..... hitting won't do anything at this point. and i've used screw drivers from the back to tighten the drum brake all the way.... ok,,, i'm just gonna run to harbor freight and buy a jaw puller and makeshift it so i can fit it to my drum.... if I can take this off, i'm gonna grind all the rust and anti seize the crap out that drum
Click to expand...

put down the rubber mallet and get a sledge hammer.
seriously, a rubber mallet is the wrong tool for the job.

unless it is stuck on the shoes. then you need to back them off, or release the park brake.

smack it between the studs with a METAL hammer. also smack it on the flat edge. it will come off.
 
Yup i meant i released the brake. i watched the timmy the toolman's video and followed his method. With leaking axle seal and axle oil that got into shoes for few months, i'm telling you guys, hammer ain't the way to go. but, i'll give it a shot again with metal hammer. if it doesn't work, time to get the jaw puller.
 
dominopizza said:
Yup i meant i released the brake. i watched the timmy the toolman's video and followed his method. With leaking axle seal and axle oil that got into shoes for few months, i'm telling you guys, hammer ain't the way to go. but, i'll give it a shot again with metal hammer. if it doesn't work, time to get the jaw puller.
Click to expand...

This happened to a guy at our last party. His driver side axle seal imploded on the way to my place. He barely made it there. His drum was seized and somebody took a big hammer and broke the drum and then used pry bars to get it off. I wasn't involved with the brake drum removal, I just saw some of it happening while I was cooking and witnessed the aftermath. If you end up having to pry it off, some of your brake hardware is going to get mangled. You could visit a PickNPull near you and hopefully get another drum and brake hardware for very little expense. Good luck!
 
yup, i've been beating them with good old steel hammer and sledgehamer, it won't even budge. I guess its time to pull it off it jaw puller. if not, i guess i have to use timmy's method.
 
dominopizza said:
yup, i've been beating them with good old steel hammer and sledgehamer, it won't even budge. I guess its time to pull it off it jaw puller. if not, i guess i have to use timmy's method.
Click to expand...



You need to back off the star adjuster all the way. There is a lip preventing the shoes from going past it. Back them off all the way and the drum will pull off. There should be plenty of videos or pictures on how to do it.

You will need 2 screw drivers. One you use to push the ratchet pawl out of the way and hold it off the star wheel. And the other you use to spin the star wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Finally did it!!!!!!!!!!!! used makeshift jaw puller with big pry bar. omg took me so long.

Now i have to make a trip to the dealer to buy outer seals and change the brakes on both

side. i'll post an update on that.
 
dominopizza said:
Now i have to make a trip to the dealer to buy outer seals and change the brakes on both
Click to expand...

If you're talking inner seals (not outer), keep in mind that new Toyota seals have the lip in a different place than the originals, and won't make the best contact with the retainer on the axle. So it may leak again. To do it right, you should consider flipping the retainer so the bevel edge faces out rather than in. In either case, do the grease test to see where the seal lip sits on the retainer.
 
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