Any tricks to loosening rear LCA Bolts?

[DaveK22]

I have found that my plumbing torch has done a fabulous job of loosening rusted bolts on my front suspension. Plus my breaker bar helps too This is all pertaining to attempting to install a daystart lift.

However, the rear bolts on the LCA (Lower Control Arm) rear mounts have proven to be the final challenge. I was able to get both front bolts loose, on each side, by torch heating & using my 18" breaker bar. Unfortunately, both rear bolts have proven to be near impossible. No air tools, no impact wrench available. I even tried using my floor jack & bottle jack to push up my breaker bar. Factor in the fact that there isn't as much leverage avialble due to wheels & being further back (doing this on ramps)

If I'm correct on my observation, the front & back bolts each have the same orientation. It seems like the nut you loosen is always towards the front on both front & back bolts. The rear nut seems to be one large tapered fitting, incorportating the "flange" between the guides. Correct?

Bottom line, the front facing bolts (front & rear mounts) are the only ones to be loosened?

Any other tips? (I really don't want to buy more tools just to loosen 2 bolts.)

P.S. I've about had it with this install attempt. If I can't get this lca part, the Daystar kit is going in the classified section hwell:

 

[zopperman]

the rear LCA bolt? do you mean the panhard bolt? you shouldnt be taking the links off and if you are you need to secure the axle

 

[S p a r k y]

the rear LCA bolt? do you mean the panhard bolt? you shouldnt be taking the links off and if you are you need to secure the axle

Hey Z I thought the same thing as you did, I think he means the Lca bolt closest to firewall on the front LCA

 

[DaveK22]

Hey Z I thought the same thing as you did, I think he means the Lca bolt closest to firewall on the front LCA

Correct.

To clarify...I'm referring to the front suspension LCA. There are 2 mounts of the front LCA to frame. This thread is referring to the "rear" bolt on the front lca mount.

 

[zopperman]

Correct.

To clarify...I'm referring to the front suspension LCA. There are 2 mounts of the front LCA to frame. This thread is referring to the "rear" bolt on the front lca mount.

ohhhh

PB blaster, cheater bar, heat... elbow grease

 

[Sungod]

how bad are they corroded? I see you are from NY.

 

[HokieRunner]

LCA cam bolts are notorious for freezing up because the factory doesn't apply any type of anti-seize on them

If you've tried that much torque with no result, I've seen where some folks have applied a pb blaster or similar type solvent over days/weeks to break through the corrosion. Of course, the quick fix (assuming they're corroded beyond saving/freeing) is to get replacement cam bolts/nuts from the dealer and sawzall out the old ones. It certainly isn't cheap though.

Don't expect the dealer to have the parts in house, either. When I replaced mine it took them 2 business days since a lot of dealers don't stock cam parts on a regular basis. There is also ZERO aftermarket availability for these parts so dealer is your only choice. If you go this route - be sure to heavily apply some anti-seize on the new bolts and any you were able to re-use.

Good luck!

 

[ReynoldsRunner]

When I installed my Daystar Kit I followed the steps in this thread to get front strut out OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum with the LCA detached from the spindle I just used a big pry bar to leverage the shock out.

Hope this helps

 

[cmoua]

I had similar issue when I did my lift. After weeks of attempting to do the job myself to no avail, i finally took it to a shop and they cut the bolts and bushings. End costing me $310 for labor to cut and install new bushings and another $200 for parts. i know your pains!

 

[zopperman]

There is also ZERO aftermarket availability for these parts so dealer is your only choice. If you go this route - be sure to heavily apply some anti-seize on the new bolts and any you were able to re-use.

Good luck!

Yup, also the passenger ones specifically because the AC water drains down literally on top of them.

Are these not the bolts?
2003 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit

 

[HokieRunner]

Yup, also the passenger ones specifically because the AC water drains down literally on top of them.

Are these not the bolts?
2003 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit

Without some pics or seeing them in person it would be hard to tell. I called/checked everywhere and even though one or two places said they carried them, when I got there to pick them up, they were the wrong parts. Maybe those are the right parts but I'd triple check before rendering the vehicle inoperable.

The front and rear LCA mount have slightly different cam hardware so the fact that the RockAuto parts don't specify certainly raises a flag.

 

[DaveK22]

When I installed my Daystar Kit I followed the steps in this thread to get front strut out OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum with the LCA detached from the spindle I just used a big pry bar to leverage the shock out.

Hope this helps

I already tried this method which requires one to pry down the LCA after unbolting from spindle. Wouldn't budge...which is why I'm now trying to loosen the LCA frame mount bolts. What's fustrating is I got both front bolts loose, mainly cause I feel I had more body & head room for getting leverage.

Not going to consider cutting & replacing the bolts...thought this was going to be a fun project LOL

I'll give it one last try this weekend.

 

[zopperman]

I already tried this method which requires one to pry down the LCA after unbolting from spindle. Wouldn't budge...which is why I'm now trying to loosen the LCA frame mount bolts. What's fustrating is I got both front bolts loose, mainly cause I feel I had more body & head room for getting leverage.

Not going to consider cutting & replacing the bolts...thought this was going to be a fun project LOL

I'll give it one last try this weekend.

Just disconnect the UBJ and pry down the LCA

 

[nevada]

I have found that my plumbing torch has done a fabulous job of loosening rusted bolts on my front suspension. Plus my breaker bar helps too This is all pertaining to attempting to install a daystart lift.

However, the rear bolts on the LCA (Lower Control Arm) rear mounts have proven to be the final challenge. I was able to get both front bolts loose, on each side, by torch heating & using my 18" breaker bar. Unfortunately, both rear bolts have proven to be near impossible. No air tools, no impact wrench available. I even tried using my floor jack & bottle jack to push up my breaker bar. Factor in the fact that there isn't as much leverage avialble due to wheels & being further back (doing this on ramps)

If I'm correct on my observation, the front & back bolts each have the same orientation. It seems like the nut you loosen is always towards the front on both front & back bolts. The rear nut seems to be one large tapered fitting, incorportating the "flange" between the guides. Correct?

Bottom line, the front facing bolts (front & rear mounts) are the only ones to be loosened?

Any other tips? (I really don't want to buy more tools just to loosen 2 bolts.)

P.S. I've about had it with this install attempt. If I can't get this lca part, the Daystar kit is going in the classified section hwell:

yes. you turn the bolts on those, the nut is the adjuster.

they are generally pretty tight, but ive never had trouble getting them loose.
sometimes have real difficulty getting the adjuster(the nut) to turn tho. as the bolt likes to sieze to the bushing.