Anybody tried to do home made body mount bushings?

stevets

New member
I just want to replace the worn rubber body bushings at the rear of my 2002. Poly replacements are $80+! Plastic rod is cheap and I can drill holes.
Anybody tried this? Any reason it won't work?
 
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I made my own 1" body lift several years back using a 1-foot length of UHMW from McMaster-Carr. Search their part number 9900K35. I used 2-1/2" diameter.
I made the steering rag joint spacer from a scrap of aluminum.
 
$80 for a piece of plastic I can buy at Mcmaster Carr, like sportscarfan did, for $12 and drill a hole in it - yes $80 is too much ! That's at least one more tank of gas and the satisfaction of having done the job myself. But I'll sell you one of the 14 others I can get out the piece of plastic for cheap :)

Thanks for the other thoughtful responses!
 
$80 for a piece of plastic I can buy at Mcmaster Carr, like sportscarfan did, for $12 and drill a hole in it - yes $80 is too much ! That's at least one more tank of gas and the satisfaction of having done the job myself. But I'll sell you one of the 14 others I can get out the piece of plastic for cheap :)

As I'm reading it sportscarfan made a body LIFT whereas you're wanting to replace body BUSHINGS.

Having replaced all the oe rubber body bushings with poly the ride is certainly a little more harsh....there's no way I'd replace those bushings with something solid. Body lift, that's where the solid puck of appropriate material would work well. I have that, too.

And there's a couple more cents for you.
 
lololol. You get what you pay for. I remember feeling awesome making holes with my dad's power tools as a kid too.
 
Not trying to be obstinate but, it's a given that hard plastic will make the ride harsher. But, accepting the harsher ride, all else being equal doing a lift or replacing these at stock height can't make a difference.

I don't get the ******* comments. If you don't have anything helpful to say why even participate in this particular discussion?

But thanks again to the people who are trying to help!
 
$80 for a piece of plastic I can buy at Mcmaster Carr, like sportscarfan did, for $12 and drill a hole in it - yes $80 is too much ! That's at least one more tank of gas and the satisfaction of having done the job myself. But I'll sell you one of the 14 others I can get out the piece of plastic for cheap :)

Thanks for the other thoughtful responses!

For me, my time is worth more than the money I'd save by doing all that cutting and drilling.

Though, you could make them a little taller and get a bit of lift, so it may be worth the time.
 
I don't get the ******* comments. If you don't have anything helpful to say why even participate in this particular discussion?

It would be super beneficial for you to not be so defensive; everyone who has posted has said something that's worth listening to.
The OEM bushings are not- by any stretch- just discs with holes in the center. Do you have a lathe that you plan on turning the new UHMW "bushings" on, so they fit into the recess of the body mounts?
I hope you don't listen to me- or anyone else trying to help- and just go for it. Go waste your time and money on something that isn't gonna work.
 
Cube truck boxes are often held on with wood spacers between the frame and box... why not try that? Even cheaper than HDPE or whatever.

Really - we are all saying that there is supposed to be flex between the frame and body of the truck. It is not a ride harshness thing, it is a you'll crack/ruin the body thing.

Body lift spacers should be solid, body bushings should flex. The only exception is an off-road rig with a full cage integrated into the frame/body.

-Charlie
 
I can only advise people willing to understand

Advise?? If anything you've said is more than attempt to mock or belittle or come off superior, I guess I missed it. Go kick your dog or something...


On the other hand - thanks phattyduck for explaining the diff between bushings and lift spacers. Since I don't want to do a body lift and really just want to get the farthest rear set functioning properly, I intend to just go with the stock replacements.
 

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