Anyone changed there own front Wheel Bearings on a 4th gen yet???

:confused:I figured I should swallow my pride and post an update on this thread. In the 8 months since I posted this I replaced both front wheel bearings with NO improvement to the original problem/noise. I need a big "FAIL" on my forehead for this one, I have learned alot through this process.

This may sound crazy, but have you tried rotating your tires? I had very similar symptoms to what you describe and would have bet my life that my front left wheel bearing was going bad. I rotated my tires (X pattern) and the noise completely went away. I was stunned. The tires had about 65,000 miles on them but looked fine and still had legal tread left on them. I never would have guessed tires could make that noise, but they did. I've got new tires now and have never heard the "bearing" noise since.
 
Sorry to hear that. My 2005 4Runner 4wd V8 needed a drivers side front wheel bearing. It was making a whoop, whoop, whoop noise. There was also a very noticeable tinny/tinging noise coming from the front axle. The noise would reduce if I made a gradual right turn and get worse on a gradual left turn. I rotated the tires, the noise persisted. The shop said it was probably my tires but I knew it wasn't. They ended up replacing the bearings and the noise is completely gone. They said the bearing failure caused contact with the backing plate which was causing that weird noise.

Sucks sometimes to fix the wrong thing, but you can have the piece of mind that you won't have to worry about them for a very long time.
 
let me tell you, Im pretty mechanically inclined, built all sorts of different rigs and done tons of work. These bearings are the freaking devil. Getting the hub off the bearing is something that is not worth doing, I have tried everything and yes mine was a northern vehicle so its probably rusted to all hell in there. Buy the entire assembly if you can and save yourself the trouble
 
Did this job last night - insert bolts before pressing!

I know this is an old post however I did this job last night and would like to point out a few things for those that may want to attempt. Buy the two separate parts - Bearing Retainer (Raybestos 715040 Rock Auto $50.95 CAd ea,) and Hub Assembly (930403 Rock Auto $44 CAD ea.). Also be sure to buy new Hub Bolts (I did not) - as Toyota decided to re-invent the wheel here and has the bolts for the Bearing Retailer facing in - behind the Hub - so there is no way to get the bolts fully out without pulling the old bearing off - very difficult or detroying the old Hub by cutting as slot with a Torch.

My best advise is to place new bolts into the holes on the new bearing retainer and only then, Press the two part together (20,000 lb press helps). If you press the parts together prior to inserting the bolts - you will not be able to get the bolts in and will either need to buy new bearings because you will likely detroy the ones you bought by trying to take the bearing off of the hub far enough to get the bolts in (I got lucky). Hope this saves someone some time or grief. Other than the above the job is fairly straight forward - you do need a press and I recomend the new bolts. Thanks
 
Whole unit - the way to go

Hi NScott - I wish saw your post first - as everyone can see the complete unit has the bolts already in place -
Toyota 4Runner , Lexus GX470 Front wheel bearing & hub | eBay

Cheers,
 
Just did the front wheel bearings on my 2003 2wd. They were both shot at 197,000 miles. I took the steering Knuckles off and took them to the dealer. The front bearings were a little cheaper at NAPA. $120 each (for the good ones). I bought the inner and outer seals, O-ring, adjusting nut and inside cap with seal (times 2) at the dealer. The dealer pressed everything in and charged me 1 hour labor.

Regarding removing the steering knuckle: I rented (for free if you bring it back) a tool set that included a pitman arm puller and tie rod puller NOT THE FORK TYPE at Advanced Discount Auto Parts. You can buy it for $130, but I didn't think I would use it enough. You use the tools to put pressure on the tie rod end nut or upper ball jount nut and then hit the tie rod or knuckle with a heavy hammer. You repeat the process until it pops loose. It goes back on to the vehicle much quicker and easier.

Thanks to everyone who wrote about this. This and other posts is where I learned the information to tackle this myself.

Matt
 
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Well the saga continues. Let me start with a big FAIL!!!!:dammit::wtf::cry:and lots of :beer: last thursday night after finding out the bearing was not the fix.

I had the right rear Wheel bearing changed last week. NO HELP!!!!

Used Chassis mikes this week to diagnois the problem. 99% Rear carrier assembly!!!!:ybrick: (Edit 05/03/12 : This was wrong!! Thank god!! I think the Chassis mikes were not working correctly)

So I threw another $500 out the window last week. Now looking at the possiblity of throwing another $1200 at it. That is the cheapest complete Toyota 3.91/3.909 rear carrier assembly I could find online. I have been unable to finded a used part. 3.91 is much more rare due to the fact that it was only used in the 03-04 V-6 4th gens. All other 4th gens have 3.73s.

Part Number 41110-3D480

This ratio was also used in 07-09 FJs with 6sp manual trannys.
 
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I just had my front driver's side hub and bearings replaced earlier today from the dealership. "Bend over," as mentioned earlier is the correct terminology. Cost me $691.00. I would have preferred to do as much work as possible on the replacement to save money, but I just don't have the tools or experience to fix it myself. It definitely set me back some on my savings, but the 4runner donesn't "hum" anymore and its an extreme relief to have the vehicle fixed! In hindsight, I don't know if I could have done anything different, besides pay the Toyota tec to do it on the side.
 
I just wanted to say many thanks for this post!!! I saved a ton of $ and installing this way was not bad at all. Purchasing the bearing and hub pre-assembled is definitely the way to go! The first side took almost 3 hours (I'm a first timer)... the other side only took an hour (b/c we actually knew what we were doing).

Thanks again for sharing your experience and advice!

James

:confused:I figured I should swallow my pride and post an update on this thread. In the 8 months since I posted this I replaced both front wheel bearings with NO improvement to the original problem/noise. I need a big "FAIL" on my forehead for this one, I have learned alot through this process.

Things learned:
1. The complete Toyota bearing and hub assemblies can be found on Ebay from a seller (d56h) out of VA. I believe he may work for a Toyota Dealer and is buying the parts at a discount, assembling them and selling them as a complete unit. He even included the o-ring seal and new grease seal/cap for the hub. All this for $165 shipped USPS Priority mail flate rate medium box. He has 2 & 4WD units if you send him a message. He was very helpful.

Toyota 4Runner , Lexus GX470 Front wheel bearing & hub | eBay

2. Make sure the shop you have do the press work (if you can't find a complete unit) really knows what they are doing. When I did the first side I went to a suspension/alignment shop I thought was ok and showed them the Toyota tech manual, they looked up the entire job with there on-line program (not sure what it was now) and they were like, (sure bring the steering knuckle in and the new parts and we will just charge you a straight Hourly rate to do it). Well They didn't have the spanner nut or torque wrench required to torque the wheel nut to 205 ft lbs and could not press the old bearing off. They had it from 9am one morning until 5 that evening and didn't get it done. It was not until the next day after they took it to another machine shop they were able to press off the old bearing and press on the new. So the first side total cost was about $210. Much better than $800 quote from stealer for 1 side.

3. Side 2 (Right/passenger Side) Ordered complete assembly from ebay seller above. 1 hour in driveway, done!!! $165 total. Grand total for 2 sides $375. Still much better the $1600 from dealer

4. Find a trusted friend/family member that is/was a mechanic that will help you diagnois the problem over a beer and to slap you when you say or think something stupid!!

5. If you are getting all the parts yourself and pressing them together I Highly suggest getting a new hub also, just not the bearing. You will save down time for the vehicle and a possible issue of damaging the old hub while removing the old bearing.

And here I am today. After the help of person in #4 above and a much needed slap in the back of the head:rockthrow:, we have pretty much narrowed it down to the right rear wheel bearing. The only issue I have with this is, I feel it in the steering wheel at times. It is like a road vibration, nothing you can see in the steering wheel, maybe it is the way the tires are wearing. The tires all look ok, no visible cupping ect... IDK that may be a whole other issue all together and I am just to consummed with the other. I swerve to the right (loading the left/drivers side), noise/grind/hum is still there. Swerve to the left (loading the right/passenger side) the noise all but goes away. I will say the noise has not gotten significantly worse over the last 8 months. The volume has only slightly increased and you may be able to hear it sooner at say 35-40mph to about 70ish. It used to be about 45-50 to 65ish. So I am soon to pull the right rear axle (w/ person from #4) and have the bearing pressed off and the new on at (cross my fingers) a good machine shop that will not damage the axle. I hope someone will gain from my slow learning curve!!
 
Where to buy the complete hub bearing assy

Hi. May I know where did you purchase the complete hub bearing assembly already pressed in? Many thanks!
 
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Unless your hub is damaged, which is very unlikely then you are wasting money replacing it. $75 for a bearing and $25 for press work is much better than $250 for a new assembly.
 
i did the work myself...

pretty easy, everything slides out and everything slid back in.

2 pain in the @ss parts...

that damn nut cover...annoying.

and removal of the bearing ofcourse.

i paid 120 for 2, and had a local shop press them out.

JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE ABS SENSOR CABLE NEAR THE CALIPER
 
I think it is amazing that many have issues with their bearings. I have problem with one of my front bearings. This seems to border on recall. Never had a bearing go before 80K
 
Happy Day!! It is Fixed!!

This is my last update on this thread. It is a good one for a change!!! My problem is fixed!!! It was not the rear gear assembly, it was the Left rear wheel bearing. So a $690 fix verses a $1500-$1600 for the gear assembly. So grand total for this almost 2 years of chasing this noise is $1615. Still better than a carpayment for 2 years!! And much better than the $3600 I would have paid the dealer to do the same work.

Last week I took it for another opinion at Fred Anderson Toyota in Raleigh, NC and they were almost sure it was the left rear bearing and not the rear gear. (They only had 1 bearing and the gear to choose from) They said the rear bearings can fool you (it did me) with the sound traveling up the frame rail and it sounds like it is comming from the front. I had a buzzing feeling in the steering wheel that corresponded to the humming sound I was hearing. When I put the rear on jack stands and ran it in drive I could easily hear it was louder on the left rear. The tech also said he has only seen rear gear failures on vehicles that have been outright abused. ie.. burn out contest, brake torqueing ect...

I had the left rear bearing replaced this week. HAPPINESS!!!:girl::party:
The silent ride is deafening!! Now I'm good (cross my fingers, knock on wood, throw salt over my shoulder, spin around 3 times before I sit down) for another 125-150k miles!!! Now I feel like I can trust the vehicle to take me or my family any distance again!!!

In the last year new - 4 new brake rotors, all new pads, replacement front calipers, flushed brake lines, and new tires. Soon to seafoam, replace spark plugs, flush coolant, replace accessory drive belt again, replace rear gear oil again, I still have not done anything to the tranny, maybe a quick drain and fill soon. I know it does not get all the old tranny fluid out but its a start......
 
This is my last update on this thread. It is a good one for a change!!! My problem is fixed!!! It was not the rear gear assembly, it was the Left rear wheel bearing. So a $690 fix verses a $1500-$1600 for the gear assembly. So grand total for this almost 2 years of chasing this noise is $1615. Still better than a carpayment for 2 years!! And much better than the $3600 I would have paid the dealer to do the same work.

Last week I took it for another opinion at Fred Anderson Toyota in Raleigh, NC and they were almost sure it was the left rear bearing and not the rear gear. (They only had 1 bearing and the gear to choose from) They said the rear bearings can fool you (it did me) with the sound traveling up the frame rail and it sounds like it is comming from the front. I had a buzzing feeling in the steering wheel that corresponded to the humming sound I was hearing. When I put the rear on jack stands and ran it in drive I could easily hear it was louder on the left rear. The tech also said he has only seen rear gear failures on vehicles that have been outright abused. ie.. burn out contest, brake torqueing ect...

I had the left rear bearing replaced this week. HAPPINESS!!!:girl::party:
The silent ride is deafening!! Now I'm good (cross my fingers, knock on wood, throw salt over my shoulder, spin around 3 times before I sit down) for another 125-150k miles!!! Now I feel like I can trust the vehicle to take me or my family any distance again!!!

In the last year new - 4 new brake rotors, all new pads, replacement front calipers, flushed brake lines, and new tires. Soon to seafoam, replace spark plugs, flush coolant, replace accessory drive belt again, replace rear gear oil again, I still have not done anything to the tranny, maybe a quick drain and fill soon. I know it does not get all the old tranny fluid out but its a start......

Glad you got this sorted out after a long time coming. Fyi my local Toyota did a full tranny flush for $179 out the door.
 
Unless your hub is damaged, which is very unlikely then you are wasting money replacing it. $75 for a bearing and $25 for press work is much better than $250 for a new assembly.

I would pay the extra $ to have a Good NSK or Koyo Asian made bearing rather than the average parts store lowest bidder unit. When it comes to the rear, the bearing assemblies are side specific, and having the correct Toyota special tool needed to attach to the bearing assembly to press it off and on again without damaging the Expensive axle shafts ($350 Each) is worth paying someone to do it!!! A shop with the right tool that is. Even My local Toyota Dealer sends the rears out to the local Machine shop for the press work with the Toyota Special Tool.

$250 from that seller on ebay is woth it IMHO..
 
So is all the parts included in that setup on ebay do I need to buy any other seals or anything?? Any info greatly appreciated!!
 
The ebay unit is a hub and bearing pressed together. You do not need a new hub. You need a new bearing. You can buy the bearing and oil seal for about half of what the assembly costs. The problem is the bearing not the hub.
 
The ebay unit is a hub and bearing pressed together. You do not need a new hub. You need a new bearing. You can buy the bearing and oil seal for about half of what the assembly costs. The problem is the bearing not the hub.

I already phoned around town here cheapest I can find for bearing is $213.27 that's just the bearing no seals or machine work dealer wanted $292.45...What do you think is a better deal????? I always price everything to death before I start a project:keyboard:.
 

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