anyone done a tranny fluid flush/replace through front cooler

[keakar]

I have done the tranny fluid flush/replace on my Tacoma and wanted to also do it with my 4runner now, but the setup is of course very different seeing as how there is no dip stick or refill tube for the tranny.

my question is, how will I get the fluid back into the tranny as fast , or close to it, as it gets pumped out at the cooler hose?

my thinking is, the return line can be used for refilling, but having never tried it, I have no idea how easy is it to do this? I am assuming it will not suck the fluid in and that it is just going to be a slow time consuming gravity feed process and it wont flow fast enough to refill at the same rate its is being pumped out the cooler hose and I will have to do it much the way I did on my Tacoma.

with the tacoma, I had to disconnect the cooler line, start engine and let it pump out about 2 quarts, turn off engine, refill tranny with 2 quarts and repeat until fluid comes out clean.

has anyone done a tranny fluid flush and replace and how did it go for you? any helpful tips you can share?

PS - just wanted to add, I know there is a fluid level plug you remove on the pan to be sure the level isn't over full and that will be done after I am finished replacing all the fluid.

also I know they "say" it never needs replacing but at 160k miles I am replacing it just for extra insurance

 

[AuSeeker]

Just curious do you ever search the forum for an answer before posting?

That being said here's a link to the topic posted by "46runner" that will tell you everything you need to know to do the flush and fill, as far as doing via the trans cooler lines, check the next to the last page (#12) for another way which was recently posted by "Waypoint" and a bit easier than removing the lines at the radiator.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/195074-atf-exchange-using-cooling-line.html

 

[ZiaMan]

It's going to be a little bit of a wash either way you do it because the final fluid check is a drain bolt on the bottom of the trans pan. So whether you fill through the cooling circuit or the side of the trans, the end of the day you have to get under there anyway. If you can fill through the cooler, it will be cleaner. Hand pumping quart bottles in the side of trans gets old (I did 13 quarts).

I did mine through the radiator and not terribly difficult but takes time. I would spend time making sure you have the hoses, drain containers, etc so it goes smoothly. the hoses are all 3/8 inch, so clear tubing a couple of double sided barbs, a plug, and you should be good to go.

Last comment is that to get this project off on the right foot, you need to drain the pan and fill with fresh fluid to prime new fluid to go through.

 

[dasx86]

Here's a post I made where I summed up my experience, and linked to the material that was relevant to me:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...al-transmission-fluid-come-5.html#post2674588

 

[keakar]

It's going to be a little bit of a wash either way you do it because the final fluid check is a drain bolt on the bottom of the trans pan. So whether you fill through the cooling circuit or the side of the trans, the end of the day you have to get under there anyway. If you can fill through the cooler, it will be cleaner. Hand pumping quart bottles in the side of trans gets old (I did 13 quarts).

I did mine through the radiator and not terribly difficult but takes time. I would spend time making sure you have the hoses, drain containers, etc so it goes smoothly. the hoses are all 3/8 inch, so clear tubing a couple of double sided barbs, a plug, and you should be good to go.

Last comment is that to get this project off on the right foot, you need to drain the pan and fill with fresh fluid to prime new fluid to go through.

ya I don't care about climbing under it for draining pan or doing the final fluid level plug, I just want a better way then trying to refill the tranny from underneath and be in and out from under there 10-12 times lol

and yes I plan to drain and refill the pan before I start the flush.

did you "have to' force the fluid in with a pump or was that just to speed things along and save time?

 

[4by4runr]

my question is, how will I get the fluid back into the tranny as fast , or close to it, as it gets pumped out at the cooler hose?

my thinking is, the return line can be used for refilling, but having never tried it, I have no idea how easy is it to do this? I am assuming it will not suck the fluid in and that it is just going to be a slow time consuming gravity feed process and it wont flow fast enough to refill at the same rate its is being pumped out the cooler hose and I will have to do it much the way I did on my Tacoma.

with the tacoma, I had to disconnect the cooler line, start engine and let it pump out about 2 quarts, turn off engine, refill tranny with 2 quarts and repeat until fluid comes out clean.

Sounds like your plan is to attempt to cycle all of it in one shot.
BAD IDEA. The return line does NOT suck anything, it it purely gravity once you unhook the feed side. As was already said, get a double barbed connector and some tubing. I used a funnel with a hose attached to it then connected that to the return. Takes about 4 minutes to gravity feed a quart. The reason it is "safe" to do 2 quarts at a time is so that you don't run your (3qt) pan dry. Gravity will be nowhere near as fast as it comes out (2 qts/20 seconds). As with your Tacoma - this is exactly the same, only at the end gravity in an extra 1/2 quart, then proceed to temp/fluid check mode.

 

[keakar]

Sounds like your plan is to attempt to cycle all of it in one shot.
BAD IDEA. The return line does NOT suck anything, it it purely gravity once you unhook the feed side. As was already said, get a double barbed connector and some tubing. I used a funnel with a hose attached to it then connected that to the return. Takes about 4 minutes to gravity feed a quart. The reason it is "safe" to do 2 quarts at a time is so that you don't run your (3qt) pan dry. Gravity will be nowhere near as fast as it comes out (2 qts/20 seconds). As with your Tacoma - this is exactly the same, only at the end gravity in an extra 1/2 quart, then proceed to temp/fluid check mode.

oh well, I figured as much but it never hurts to ask just in case if there was a faster way.

its not like im pressed for time to get it done faster anyway but if I could refill as fast as it pumps out that would have been ideal.

I know from my Tacoma it just kinda dribbles out so its not that much pressure pushing behind it

 

[keakar]

I also plan to do a power steering fluid drain and replace by using the same method and the same Toyota atf ws fluid but I have no idea how much fluid that system holds. does anyone know so I can order the right amount to do the PS system fluid replacement?

my experience is power steering fluid is just the same atf used in that vehicle, but called by another name and sold by the pint so its at twice the price, plus, looking on ebay, "for some reason" you cant by it by itself, they only sell it as a combo package deal with the Toyota brake fluid

 

[4by4runr]

oh well, I figured as much but it never hurts to ask just in case if there was a faster way.

its not like im pressed for time to get it done faster anyway but if I could refill as fast as it pumps out that would have been ideal.

I know from my Tacoma it just kinda dribbles out so its not that much pressure pushing behind it

I mean If you want to do that you can.
Need:
13 qt collector for waste fluid.
13 qt sealable container for new fluid.
Air line connectors
PSI Regulator
Air compressor
Hoses and fittings

Connect drill and tap the container for the quick connect air fitting.
Drill and mount double sided 3/8 compression fitting connector on the container with tubing dropping down to the bottom to pull the new fluid out then the other side of the connector going to your trans line inlet/return.
Connect one hose to your air supply, the other end to an inline regulator.
Then the other end of the regulator to the sealed container quick connect.
Now to test fill with TFT and pressurize the container at various psi until you find where the given psi outputs a the same rate as your particular vehicle is.

Simple as that.

 

[keakar]

I mean If you want to do that you can.
Need:
13 qt collector for waste fluid.
13 qt sealable container for new fluid.
Air line connectors
PSI Regulator
Air compressor
Hoses and fittings

Connect drill and tap the container for the quick connect air fitting.
Drill and mount double sided 3/8 compression fitting connector on the container with tubing dropping down to the bottom to pull the new fluid out then the other side of the connector going to your trans line inlet/return.
Connect one hose to your air supply, the other end to an inline regulator.
Then the other end of the regulator to the sealed container quick connect.
Now to test fill with TFT and pressurize the container at various psi until you find where the given psi outputs a the same rate as your particular vehicle is.

Simple as that.

lol, how does that saying go, you always end up working a lot harder trying to find an easier way then if you just do it the way you are supposed to do it

 

[BADCUDA1]

Here's what I did.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/242538-hayden-698-install-08-4runner.html

















i

 

[4by4runr]

lol, how does that saying go, you always end up working a lot harder trying to find an easier way then if you just do it the way you are supposed to do it

Yes I work with a bunch of engineers who have on too numerous to count over engineered part specifications that are beyond our holding capabilities, or the classic, 80,000 angle polygon to make cutout a certain shape when all that is needed is a simple slot.. done.

I remember back a few years ago, a new hire engineer came into our shop just about to graduate and on his first day and was experiencing some fitament issues with his parts and proclaimed that it was our fixturing that wasn't correct and not the fact that he hadn't adjusted his tool wear properly in the machine so he said was going to remake the fixtures and add ejectors, I smiled and asked how long this would take, he said less than half an hour. Riiiiiiiiight,, ok we'll see.. for now get back to work...
Still waiting on those "new" fixtures

 

[waypoint]

Here's what I did.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/242538-hayden-698-install-08-4runner.html

That's a great install and post. I like the thermostat function on that cooler, preventing overcooling.

My scanner shows pan temps averaging 170 in this semi-cool weather. No factory aux cooler on the truck, so your Hayden looks like a good project.

 

[ZiaMan]

ya I don't care about climbing under it for draining pan or doing the final fluid level plug, I just want a better way then trying to refill the tranny from underneath and be in and out from under there 10-12 times lol

and yes I plan to drain and refill the pan before I start the flush.

did you "have to' force the fluid in with a pump or was that just to speed things along and save time?

There's not enough room to pour a quart of ATF in a funnel that will go into the side of the trans, hence the need for a handpump.

 

[ZiaMan]

I also plan to do a power steering fluid drain and replace by using the same method and the same Toyota atf ws fluid but I have no idea how much fluid that system holds. does anyone know so I can order the right amount to do the PS system fluid replacement?

my experience is power steering fluid is just the same atf used in that vehicle, but called by another name and sold by the pint so its at twice the price, plus, looking on ebay, "for some reason" you cant by it by itself, they only sell it as a combo package deal with the Toyota brake fluid

Literally the same concept and almost the same process as ATF. Get some tubing, barbs, and a plug.

Remove the return line (this is the regular, low pressure one). Place barb and tubing to drain pan.

Place short tube hose on reservoir with plug. Drain reservior either through the tube (use longer one) or turkey baster.

Refill with new fluid.

Turn steering wheel lock to lock and refill as it gets low

Stop with fluid coming out of return tube is new.

Reconnect return hose. Start and do lock to lock, check level, drive, check level, done.

Pro tip: hosing is same 3/8th inch you need for trans

 

[keakar]

Literally the same concept and almost the same process as ATF. Get some tubing, barbs, and a plug.

Remove the return line (this is the regular, low pressure one). Place barb and tubing to drain pan.

Place short tube hose on reservoir with plug. Drain reservior either through the tube (use longer one) or turkey baster.

Refill with new fluid.

Turn steering wheel lock to lock and refill as it gets low

Stop with fluid coming out of return tube is new.

Reconnect return hose. Start and do lock to lock, check level, drive, check level, done.

Pro tip: hosing is same 3/8th inch you need for trans

any idea on the number of quarts that might be needed to do it?

also the insides of PS reservoir is pretty black and im wondering what would be the best way to clean it out? can get in there and clean the screen?

I certainly want to be careful about putting anything in it to clean it that could cause issues

 

[ZiaMan]

any idea on the number of quarts that might be needed to do it?

also the insides of PS reservoir is pretty black and im wondering what would be the best way to clean it out? can get in there and clean the screen?

I certainly want to be careful about putting anything in it to clean it that could cause issues

3 quarts seems to be the magic number. If you drain the reservoir, might as well remove it and clean it with break cleaner and paper towels. It's only a couple bolts.

Have you seen this?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/219646-diy-power-steering-flush-4th-gen-specific.html

 

[4by4runr]

There's not enough room to pour a quart of ATF in a funnel that will go into the side of the trans, hence the need for a handpump.

We're not talking about side of the trans, funnel goes into the return line from the cooler.

 

[4by4runr]

Regarding the power steering, if you connect a long tube (just like the trans) down to a catch bucket, once you start the draining process, it will auto siphon and you just need to continue pouring in atf (calls for dex 2/3) until it bleeds red again. Then pull the draining tubing off the barbed fitting and the siphon no longer has enough weight to pull more fluid.

 

[keakar]

3 quarts seems to be the magic number. If you drain the reservoir, might as well remove it and clean it with break cleaner and paper towels. It's only a couple bolts.

Have you seen this?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/219646-diy-power-steering-flush-4th-gen-specific.html

did you use Toyota WS ATF tranny fluid?

no I hadn't seen that, thank you :cheers:

ok then so any thin brake cleaner residue that gets left behind is totally safe to mix with the PS system?