Yes I make sure lug nuts are torqued properly everytime and all my torque wrenches are certified CDI torque wrenches.
Anyone else have front brake rotor heat issues?
- Thread starter jdm-v35
- Start date
Yes I make sure lug nuts are torqued properly everytime and all my torque wrenches are certified CDI torque wrenches.
I have made the trip many times and usually go further like west UT or down to south NM as well, so am wondering if it is finally taking a toll on the brakes.
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johnbt
Member
"I am wondering if it is also more of a problem because I have a lot of extra weight(supercharger, dual batteries, fridge, front bumper with winch, full armor, rigd ultraswing, 285's, rack etc). And when I camp with the wife I carry a RTT and more gear as well."
I think you are onto something.
Do you have problems going uphill?
I think you are onto something.
Do you have problems going uphill?
"I am wondering if it is also more of a problem because I have a lot of extra weight(supercharger, dual batteries, fridge, front bumper with winch, full armor, rigd ultraswing, 285's, rack etc). And when I camp with the wife I carry a RTT and more gear as well."
I think you are onto something.
Do you have problems going uphill?
Supercharger helps that. It was slower than stock of course before supercharger. Luckily I don't daily it so it gets driven maybe once a month or so unless I am camping often which is usually during winter.
I use CDI too! I’m out of ideas… hope turning and rebedding does the trick.
I had a similar problem coming down that pass on a past 3rd Gen. Issue went away when I installed the StopTech slotted rotors.
I’ve been using the Centric Cryo treated or StopTech slotted on my 4Runner without isssue.
honda250xtitan
New member
i forgot to add, we also run the akebono pads. better initial bite than OEM pads. zero dust.
Thanks for the info on those. I would hope that a better rotor and pads may hold up to the heat better and reduce glazing. I am debating on just going all out and getting the wilwood kit or getting just pads and rotors.
1000MPH
Senior Member
I can get this occasionally.
I can expect to get it on a particular drive I do about 10-15 times a year. It’s a 300 mile drive North on 395 from Mojave through the Eastern Sierras. It always seems to be when I first lightly apply the brakes rolling up to the first traffic lights in 200 miles. After a little more aggressive use of the brakes it goes away. FTR, I’ve got 135k on my original pads.
I can expect to get it on a particular drive I do about 10-15 times a year. It’s a 300 mile drive North on 395 from Mojave through the Eastern Sierras. It always seems to be when I first lightly apply the brakes rolling up to the first traffic lights in 200 miles. After a little more aggressive use of the brakes it goes away. FTR, I’ve got 135k on my original pads.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Have a home on Big Bear Lake in the San Bernardino Mountains. Eleveation is 6,750’, but the passes top out at 7,102’ and 8,443’, depending which route you take. Dealt with the issue you are having with the wobble under braking. For rotors, I highly recommend Raybestos Advanced Technology slotted or AC Delco slotted rotors, both made by the same manufacturer. Also use their advanced technology ceramic pads. You need to inspect and replace all worn steering parts, focusing on inner and outer tie rods.
Was going back and forth on going with a stoptech or wilwood BBK. reached out to my parts contacts and had them verify if they were compatible with stock rotors since the sizes specified in the kits were stock rotor sizes. They said they were not compatible.
I really like the idea of having more rotor choices and since those are not 2-piece and the OEM rotors have many more choices I am sticking with OEM brake calipers.
With that said I will be doing a brake upgrade as I think that the stock brakes are just at their limit with ~600-700lbs static added weight combined with lots of mountain driving. I ordered the parts to revamp the brake system and hopefully it will feel better with knowing I can replace with OEM parts in a pinch.
parts list:
EBC Yellow pads
Stoptech slotted rotors
Stoptech stainless lines(I already have stainless 3rd member extended lines for my etxended travel rear)
Motul 5.1 fluid to do a full flush
Permatex extreme brake parts lube
Will make sure to bed the pads properly and hopefully they do better.
I really like the idea of having more rotor choices and since those are not 2-piece and the OEM rotors have many more choices I am sticking with OEM brake calipers.
With that said I will be doing a brake upgrade as I think that the stock brakes are just at their limit with ~600-700lbs static added weight combined with lots of mountain driving. I ordered the parts to revamp the brake system and hopefully it will feel better with knowing I can replace with OEM parts in a pinch.
parts list:
EBC Yellow pads
Stoptech slotted rotors
Stoptech stainless lines(I already have stainless 3rd member extended lines for my etxended travel rear)
Motul 5.1 fluid to do a full flush
Permatex extreme brake parts lube
Will make sure to bed the pads properly and hopefully they do better.
fourrunnerbill
Member
I haven't had this problem yet anyway. But I agree engine braking is essential, on a long downhill never be in 5th gear, put it in 4th and lower the speed. Something else I always do is turn on the AC and turn on the headlights to provide a little bit more engine resistance from the alternator. I sometimes tow a pop-up trailer and I never had an issue with this strategy.
Same issue
Have you found a solution?
I’ve been having the same issue. Having had to replace multiple rotors and pads within the last year. Most recently set of EBC slotted brakes with yellow pads. These were done within the past month and I can already feel them warping. I do normal daily driving no harsh hills or sudden stops. Brakes and pads were bed in properly. I took it to Toyota and they say calipers/pistons are all fine moving freely no issues or sticking brakes. What is warping my rotors so frequently??? Anyone have any insight?
Have you found a solution?
I’ve been having the same issue. Having had to replace multiple rotors and pads within the last year. Most recently set of EBC slotted brakes with yellow pads. These were done within the past month and I can already feel them warping. I do normal daily driving no harsh hills or sudden stops. Brakes and pads were bed in properly. I took it to Toyota and they say calipers/pistons are all fine moving freely no issues or sticking brakes. What is warping my rotors so frequently??? Anyone have any insight?
EEEliminator
Member
I had rotor warping issues especially when my 4Runner was my wife's daily :lmao:. I switched to the dimpled/slotted rotors and pad from brakeperformance on the 4Runner and drilled/slotted on my wife's car and have not had any warping issues since. I had always used Toyota pads and rotors prior to that. I was hesitant to go with the drilled rotors due to fear of cracking but they warranty them against that. They've been on for a couple of years and no complaints other than they can be louder than the factory pads/rotors.
This is what I’m running right now (dimpled and slotted) less than a month in and I’m warping them again. Don’t know where to go next if Toyota and off road shops can’t find an issue. Don’t want to keep throwing money at in search of a fix.. but I might have to lol
Toyota said they couldn’t measure runout due to the rotor being slotted, saying the slots would interfere with the measuring gauge. Me stating they’re warping is from the signs and symptoms of previous rotors that were in fact replaced due to warping. ie. vibrations when braking and front to rear wobble when coming to a stop. These symptoms get worse until I replace the pads and rotors once again. Going on my 5th set unfortunately.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Ah but are you feeling pulse in the brake pedal? The wobble is more likely due to out of balance tires and wear on front end components. Been there and corrected that.
This is what happens when one simply throws parts at a problem without correctly diagnosing the cause of the problem.
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You know what.. I’ve never payed attention to it due to me focusing on the actual movement of the vehicle vs pedal. I’ll go drive a bit and report back. But yes you are 100% describing me. I have done multiple balances/road force balance. Replaced UCAs, inner/outer tie rod ends, Swaybar bushings, needle bearings to clamshell bushing. Almost every component with a bushing besides LCAs which look to be in good condition. Mainly due to shops not being able to find a problem and my hardheadedness in trying to find the perfect ride…
No noticeable brake pulse. Just the front to back swaying of the vehicle when coming to a stop. What beats me is that during the first couple months or so of me having new brakes that motion is not present at all. As time progresses it turns into more pronounced shaking when hitting the brakes at higher speeds with very apparent brake pulse.
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