Anyone Hack the RR Diff lock light to be used with Air Locker?

I was taking apart my dash to try to clean all the dust in there, and figured I'd just pull the cluster.

Can you solder? I was thinking you could get one of those hole fixers, that you use to fix papers that rip out of 3 ring binders. Stick that over the hole for the RR diff light to keep the bulb from making contact with the stock terminals. Then solder in wires to the 2 terminals on the bulb, run one to ground and another to the hot lead on the locker switch.

The hole for the light seems like it's the perfect size for one of those hole fixers

P1050991_zpsd889e267.jpg~original


And this is what I mean by hole fixer, if I'm coming off as crazy

s0212310_sc7


Just an idea, and it would be cheap!
 
Stockwell45 said:
I was taking apart my dash to try to clean all the dust in there, and figured I'd just pull the cluster.

Can you solder? I was thinking you could get one of those hole fixers, that you use to fix papers that rip out of 3 ring binders. Stick that over the hole for the RR diff light to keep the bulb from making contact with the stock terminals. Then solder in wires to the 2 terminals on the bulb, run one to ground and another to the hot lead on the locker switch.

The hole for the light seems like it's the perfect size for one of those hole fixers


And this is what I mean by hole fixer, if I'm coming off as crazy


Just an idea, and it would be cheap!
Click to expand...

Great minds think alike! This was my back up plan if the relay doesn't work out!
 
That is a neat idea but pretty unnecessary.

If you look at the diagram it should show you which pins are what on the right connector. If I have time tonight I'll take a look at how it works. you should just be able to splice into the factory harness.
 
Thanks Connor for all your help with this, but still hasn't worked for me. Even tried my hole fixer idea, didn't work.

It seems like my problem is there are no wires that are hot only when the locker is on. 5 of the 6 wires on my switch are either always hot or never hot. 1 wire is hot when the switch is not activated, not hot when the switch is on, which is weird. Any ideas? My locker is an elocker retrofit, I followed ARKRWLR's writeup for wiring

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/89502-how-diy-retrofit-elocker-wiring.html

I feel like I'm so close, just not quite there.
 
I thought about this too when I first put in my ARB, but really, its just a redundant light... The ARB switch already lights up?? Why need a second light when you already know it's locked/engaged?

The nice about about the real-system rr-diff lock is that the light will blink will actuating or if there's a problem, and will light solid once engaged. There is no ARB sensor :/
 
rideexileex said:
I thought about this too when I first put in my ARB, but really, its just a redundant light... The ARB switch already lights up?? Why need a second light when you already know it's locked/engaged?

The nice about about the real-system rr-diff lock is that the light will blink will actuating or if there's a problem, and will light solid once engaged. There is no ARB sensor :/
Click to expand...

Why you got to be hatin?

My ARB switch is next to the door. It's very inconvenient to look and see if it's on. When I'm actually wheeling, the last thing I want to do it look all the way next to the switch, taking me eyes off the fact that I have two wheels and then air and if one tire slips I'll flip. The RR Diff Light is very bright and can be seen with ease while still looking out the windshield.
 
rideexileex said:
I thought about this too when I first put in my ARB, but really, its just a redundant light... The ARB switch already lights up?? Why need a second light when you already know it's locked/engaged?

The nice about about the real-system rr-diff lock is that the light will blink will actuating or if there's a problem, and will light solid once engaged. There is no ARB sensor :/
Click to expand...

Twice now I've hit the button with my knee when I got in, and didn't see the light on down there once I got moving. I figured it out once I started feeling the rear end binding up on the road. It would be nice to have that other light visible.
 
Ha, not hatin....

Let me take a picture of my setup here in the next few days and I'll show you where I've placed mine. It's currently all torn up right now cause I'm now making room for the front ARB switch :D
 
Well, actually - here's an old picture of just the two. I love this placement - It keeps all of the "drivetrain" options together.

photo.jpg~original
 
rideexileex said:
Well, actually - here's an old picture of just the two. I love this placement - It keeps all of the "drivetrain" options together.

photo.jpg~original
Click to expand...

I'm getting ready to install mine soon and thought about this location for the swiches also. Wasn't sure it would fit well due to the curvature of that panel. How flush are the switches there?
 
Perfectly flat - I had that same concern, but it worked out perfectly. The biggest issue is the space under that panel, its a snug fit, but it works just fine! The new trial will be trying to get the three switches in there at once.

I made my cuts off the center line that is created between the top of the transfer case boot and where the gear selector ridge "blends" with the rest of the trim piece.
 
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