Anyone have Sonoran Steel rear bumps?

seank

New member
So I snapped the heads off both my rear bumps when I went to install the Toytec extensions. I've now fubared the drivers side beyond on frame repair trying first to extract then re tap. So my options are cut it off and repair or cut it off and replace. The Sonoran stops look strong but I can't tell if they replace the the stock brackets or not. I think they replace, but the website says they're bolt on.

4Runner (96-02) Super Soft Rear Bump Stops $150.00 & $13.45 USPS - $163.45 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

Anyone have experience with these? Should I just cut off the stock brackets and make my own?

Thanks!

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Save yourself $150. Get some extended bump stops from a late '90s GMC Jimmy. These cost me $13.

20160616_193730.jpg~original
 
Yea I have them. I want to call him and tell him that for $160 he should powder coat them or at least do a better paint job and not some shitty spray can job without primer.

Otherwise they are good. If i could go back. I wouldn't buy it again. Toytec sells some for $50
 
Thanks for the replies, guys, they helped me a lot. I think I'm going to fab something myself, just have to decide what I want it to look like. I'll post again when I have something

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Thanks for the replies, guys, they helped me a lot. I think I'm going to fab something myself, just have to decide what I want it to look like. I'll post again when I have something

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Just remember to weld tabs in place so your bump stops don't rotate.
 
Those bump stops over compress so they don't really extend anything.

What makes you say that? Honest question. In the picture I posted, the weight of the truck is on the bump stop and the shock has not yet reached full compression. ...LC Tokico Blacks are being used.

Maybe you are talking about high-speed bumps? I don't know about others, but I don't hit things at speed that fully compress the suspension. True, a very high-speed, full-compression hit could fully compress this bump stop and destroy the shock.

*Edit: Yes, these bump stops are softer than the solid stock bump stops. But, I also went from a solid 2" factory bump stop to the softer 5.5" bump stop. I only needed an extra 2" of safety; I got 3.5" and it is softer than the factory ones.
 
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What makes you say that? Honest question. In the picture I posted, the weight of the truck is on the bump stop and the shock has not yet reached full compression. ...LC Tokico Blacks are being used.

Maybe you are talking about high-speed bumps? I don't know about others, but I don't hit things at speed that fully compress the suspension. True, a very high-speed, full-compression hit could fully compress this bump stop and destroy the shock.

*Edit: Yes, these bump stops are softer than the solid stock bump stops. But, I also went from a solid 2" factory bump stop to the softer 5.5" bump stop. I only needed an extra 2" of safety; I got 3.5" and it is softer than the factory ones.

Your not fully stuffed.
 

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I've seen that photo before and that's not my vehicle. I do know that with these aging bump stops, there can be some difference in the softness of each set. Let me make sure I understand what you are saying by "fully stuffed"... weight can be on one or both front tires, but the weight of the rear is fully onto one wheel with the other off the ground? Is that about right?

In my picture, I had the front wheels on the ground. I then used a jack to lift one wheel as high as it would go, lifting the entire rear of the vehicle off of the jack stands from both sides. That should be the limit of articulation, meaning that I can't get the high wheel higher off the ground (right?). Do you agree (I suspect not) or is there another type of test I should use to find the limits of the travel against the bump stops?
 
I've seen that photo before and that's not my vehicle. I do know that with these aging bump stops, there can be some difference in the softness of each set. Let me make sure I understand what you are saying by "fully stuffed"... weight can be on one or both front tires, but the weight of the rear is fully onto one wheel with the other off the ground? Is that about right?

I've seen that picture before too, I think that's the only one I've ever seen, can't say I've seen a whole bunch of pictures of them compressing that far to make me in anyway believe it's a systemic issue. I was a little concerned going to the jimmy bump stops, but I couldn't justify spending as much as they want for aftermarket bumps. I've definitely had my truck resting on them before and it wasn't compressed that far, guess I may not have been "fully stuffed" though.

Additionally, in that photo they have the 3rd (bottom) ring cut off.
 
I've seen that photo before and that's not my vehicle. I do know that with these aging bump stops, there can be some difference in the softness of each set. Let me make sure I understand what you are saying by "fully stuffed"... weight can be on one or both front tires, but the weight of the rear is fully onto one wheel with the other off the ground? Is that about right?

In my picture, I had the front wheels on the ground. I then used a jack to lift one wheel as high as it would go, lifting the entire rear of the vehicle off of the jack stands from both sides. That should be the limit of articulation, meaning that I can't get the high wheel higher off the ground (right?). Do you agree (I suspect not) or is there another type of test I should use to find the limits of the travel against the bump stops?

Im sure it depends on your coils. My buddys setup with OME coils out back will lift a tire because they dont flex that well.

THe issue with the Blazer bump stops are the contact point is lowered but since they are so soft they will just compress up and they make no major difference.

The picture was a member that found out this issue. He had to lower the GM bump stops with a 3" sleeve to get them to work properly. So if you think about it you could just do that with the stock bump stops. But it is nice to have soft stops like on the SS bumps that I have. So if you get jimmy stops its not a bad idea to lower them even more.

Again I guess this all depends on how much lift you have. That member could have been running 8 wraps meaning he needed to lower them more. Just want to make sure people are not blowing out shocks on the trail.
 
I've seen that picture before too, I think that's the only one I've ever seen, can't say I've seen a whole bunch of pictures of them compressing that far to make me in anyway believe it's a systemic issue. I was a little concerned going to the jimmy bump stops, but I couldn't justify spending as much as they want for aftermarket bumps. I've definitely had my truck resting on them before and it wasn't compressed that far, guess I may not have been "fully stuffed" though.

Additionally, in that photo they have the 3rd (bottom) ring cut off.

If I remember right the 3rd ring was doing nothing and he had to cut it off and lower than with steel sleeve.
 
You ever seen any other occurrences of this?

Edit: not trying to be a jerk, just curious

Nope, just that thread from the guy that had the issue. But again not to many people running these Jimmy stops either. I know my axle will pretty much stuff till its touching axle to frame if I was missing my stops. Seems up travel is being limited somehow and its not the Jimmy stop because they are super soft and not fully compressed in the picture above.
 
I've still got a set for sale from when I made several of these a few months ago. Mine have been great over the last 6 months, 18k miles since they've been on.

Here's the link if interested.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...-rear-bump-stops-3rd-gen-al-$105-shipped.html
I checked them out, they look great. Unfortunately I've mucked up the drivers side mount on the frame so bad I need to cut it off and start from scratch. The passenger isn't messed up, yet, but has a headless bolt stuck in it so I figured I'll hack that bracket off too.

I'm lucky in that I have little rust, but a ton of the bolts I'm touching have been untouched since it left the factory. That plus 20 years means there's no such thing as too much penetrating oil or caution.

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Im sure it depends on your coils. My buddys setup with OME coils out back will lift a tire because they dont flex that well.

THe issue with the Blazer bump stops are the contact point is lowered but since they are so soft they will just compress up and they make no major difference.

The picture was a member that found out this issue. He had to lower the GM bump stops with a 3" sleeve to get them to work properly. So if you think about it you could just do that with the stock bump stops. But it is nice to have soft stops like on the SS bumps that I have. So if you get jimmy stops its not a bad idea to lower them even more.

Again I guess this all depends on how much lift you have. That member could have been running 8 wraps meaning he needed to lower them more. Just want to make sure people are not blowing out shocks on the trail.

When I did my test for full compression with the Jimmy bump stops, I had my springs removed from the rear suspension. The springs were removed from the equation, and I consider that to be a worst case scenario test. There was nothing supporting the rear of the vehicle except the bump stop on that one side. ...and to me, I don't see compression of the bump stop that makes me concerned at all. I also don't hear a genuine reason for concern from you, aside from that photo you posted; but that looks worlds different than mine.

So tell me, from the photo I posted, do you still have reason to find concern with the bump stops I'm using? ...or is there another method (more extreme) I should use to find further compression of the rear bump stop, to test it?

*Edit: In my photo, I have both rear tires removed from the vehicle. I jacked the rear axle from the point where the rear shock attaches to the axle, lifting until the rear of the vehicle came off the jack stands; front wheels were still planted on level ground (garage).
 
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When I did my test for full compression with the Jimmy bump stops, I had my springs removed from the rear suspension. The springs were removed from the equation, and I consider that to be a worst case scenario test. There was nothing supporting the rear of the vehicle except the bump stop on that one side. ...and to me, I don't see compression of the bump stop that makes me concerned at all. I also don't hear a genuine reason for concern from you, aside from that photo you posted; but that looks worlds different than mine.

So tell me, from the photo I posted, do you still have reason to find concern with the bump stops I'm using? ...or is there another method (more extreme) I should use to find further compression of the rear bump stop, to test it?

*Edit: In my photo, I have both rear tires removed from the vehicle. I jacked the rear axle from the point where the rear shock attaches to the axle, lifting until the rear of the vehicle came off the jack stands; front wheels were still planted on level ground (garage).

I don't see it being an issue on your setup either. Mine seemed to stuff a lot more. I guess it comes down to you want to lower your stop with something hard like a block. Not lowered with soft rubber that can compress. Another member posted about his shocks and at full stuff with super flex his Jimmy stop looked the same. Maybe I'm just being paranoid.
 

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