Anyone know of a CONSTANT hot 12v wire near the glove box?

JSCincy

New member
Looking for a wiring diagram to figure out the closest constant 12v wire near the glove box in a 2014 LE.... I want to add a constant 12V socket into the glove compartment. Thanks in advance..!
 
Register to hide this ad
to answer the OP's question. there should be constant power for the blower motor down there. or just grab power from the radio, light blue wire is 12volt constant
 
Looking for a wiring diagram to figure out the closest constant 12v wire near the glove box in a 2014 LE.... I want to add a constant 12V socket into the glove compartment. Thanks in advance..!

If it were me I'd just run a wire of ample gauge from the battery - I would just feel better about it vs loading an existing circuit...

It's really easy to run wire from the engine compartment, there's a grommet on the driver's side you can poke through then route up/under dash to wherever you want to end up...
 
If it were me I'd just run a wire of ample gauge from the battery - I would just feel better about it vs loading an existing circuit...

It's really easy to run wire from the engine compartment, there's a grommet on the driver's side you can poke through then route up/under dash to wherever you want to end up...

That was my original plan and that is what parts i bought to do... but I was just looking for a less invasive procedure...

I bought an OEM socket and cover... just want a designated area to charge my cell when the car is off.... an area where no one can see the phone that is... Thanks for the help guys...
 
to answer the OP's question. there should be constant power for the blower motor down there. or just grab power from the radio, light blue wire is 12volt constant

That may work... Do you think it could handle the extra load? I may have one maybe 2 phones charging at once... probably 2.1amp max... so I do not think it would be an issue. since i would only use it if the car is off...

I really appreciate the input..
 
Ya sure, it's only at most 5 amps plus everything else will be off. I wouldn't run anything from the front battery into the truck for this little thing.
 
Ya sure, it's only at most 5 amps plus everything else will be off. I wouldn't run anything from the front battery into the truck for this little thing.

If it will only ever be a cell phone sure, but doing it "right" and wiring it to the battery will allow whatever he may want to plug in down the road to work safely as well.

Regardless, for the phone either way will obviously work. To me tapping into existing wires is more invasive then running a new wire that can be completely removed FWIW...
 
If it will only ever be a cell phone sure, but doing it "right" and wiring it to the battery will allow whatever he may want to plug in down the road to work safely as well.

Regardless, for the phone either way will obviously work. To me tapping into existing wires is more invasive then running a new wire that can be completely removed FWIW...

So you are saying I am wrong and your way is the right way?

Why?

What is doing it, right? Vs wrong?

As a 12 volt expert, I would like to know what a beginner novice diy would think what is right vs wrong.
 
So you are saying I am wrong and your way is the right way?

Why?

What is doing it, right? Vs wrong?

As a 12 volt expert, I would like to know what a beginner novice diy would think what is right vs wrong.

relax...

I am a diy novice and you are self proclaimed 12v expert? How do you know me?

The internet can be a weird place...
 
No one is trying to incite a riot here, or trolling threads.

Relax? When did you get me excited?

I asked a question and you tell me to relax? What kind of answer is that?

Agreed, the Internet is a weird place. Everyone has an opinion, like @ssholes they stink. Apparently to you my opinion stinks too.

Answer the original question.

Why would your way be the right way and mine would be the wrong way?
 
Back on topic...

There is a 12v power source going to your trailer wiring plug on the drivers side. Is a little further from the glove box, but you don't have to tap into anything, you can just plug in a blade connector.

I would not fear tapping into your blower motor if you are thinking about that route, it's a 20 amp circuit and it goes through a relay so the circuit itself is never loaded.

Running from your battery is also a good option, but to do it right requires some effort and some time. Unless you don't care if you have a random wire or two just running through your engine bay, then it's a 10 min job. Lol.
 
No one is trying to incite a riot here, or trolling threads.

Relax? When did you get me excited?

I asked a question and you tell me to relax? What kind of answer is that?

Agreed, the Internet is a weird place. Everyone has an opinion, like @ssholes they stink. Apparently to you my opinion stinks too.

Answer the original question.

Why would your way be the right way and mine would be the wrong way?

No your opinion is fine, and will obviously work. Like I said from the beginning. It seems very important to you that this is validated and that nobody considers you wrong about this, I can assure you I don't and doubt anyone else does...so yes please, relax.

I put "right" in quotations for a reason, and that's because I acknowledge right to me isn't a matter of fact, it's what I deem to be the cleaner more robust solution whenever adding to the electrical system. I acknowledge it isn't always necessary which makes it my preference in many cases.

"right"?
 
Back on topic...

There is a 12v power source going to your trailer wiring plug on the drivers side. Is a little further from the glove box, but you don't have to tap into anything, you can just plug in a blade connector.

I would not fear tapping into your blower motor if you are thinking about that route, it's a 20 amp circuit and it goes through a relay so the circuit itself is never loaded.

Running from your battery is also a good option, but to do it right requires some effort and some time. Unless you don't care if you have a random wire or two just running through your engine bay, then it's a 10 min job. Lol.

I like the blower motor option..... 20amp lead is what i'm looking for. Anyone know the best way to get a hold of an electronic version of the 2014 wiring diagram? I have got a couple in the past from dealers.... 30 to 40 pages worth! LOL
 
I like the blower motor option..... 20amp lead is what i'm looking for. Anyone know the best way to get a hold of an electronic version of the 2014 wiring diagram? I have got a couple in the past from dealers.... 30 to 40 pages worth! LOL

Take a look here:
My Files

(courtesy of Nashman)

Not specific to 2014 but might be a good start...
 
Both ways will work fine and are simply matters of preference. My spring project will be moving my aux/usb to the glovebox and wiring the 12v socket constant. I'll probably go to battery "only" to avoid giving Toyota any excuses when/if I have an electrical problem. I'll make an extension harness for the aux/usb using factory connectors.
 
If it were me I'd just run a wire of ample gauge from the battery - I would just feel better about it vs loading an existing circuit...

It's really easy to run wire from the engine compartment, there's a grommet on the driver's side you can poke through then route up/under dash to wherever you want to end up...

There's actually also a grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay that dumps right into behind the glove box too, so in case OP rather snake the wire across the engine bay instead of behind the dash, that's also an option too :)

FWIW, personally I would go the direct wire route too, just for the sake of simplicity and complete isolation.
 
There's actually also a grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay that dumps right into behind the glove box too, so in case OP rather snake the wire across the engine bay instead of behind the dash, that's also an option too :)

FWIW, personally I would go the direct wire route too, just for the sake of simplicity and complete isolation.

yeah.... that may be best.....
 
Ok sooo I would guess the plug on the back of the existing cigarette lighter would plug into a male spade. Could you make a male to female adapter and run a second leg off of that over to the glove box? Wouldn't have to modify any factory wiring and could be put back ASAP. I mean to run a car charger is like 1 or 2 amp max draw... So even if you ran both plugs at the same time you'd be ok I'd imagine. Just my non engineer thoughts.
 
Ok sooo I would guess the plug on the back of the existing cigarette lighter would plug into a male spade. Could you make a male to female adapter and run a second leg off of that over to the glove box? Wouldn't have to modify any factory wiring and could be put back ASAP. I mean to run a car charger is like 1 or 2 amp max draw... So even if you ran both plugs at the same time you'd be ok I'd imagine. Just my non engineer thoughts.

This is sooo not what OP is trying to accomplish, go re-read the post, lol. :caked:
[MENTION=103254]JSCincy[/MENTION], I just thought of this how to that [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] wrote up: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-4.html#post813424

Just another idea for you consider...maybe you could follow that trick using the fuse tap but just do it to your glove box outlet instead :)
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,128
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top