Anyone swap entire wheels daily versus offroad?

I know I am not sitting in a trophy truck, but the 255/75/17 (32.1”) BFG Baja Champion KM mud terrains I use when driving though the dunes / desert sand are aired up in the high teens… 18 rear and 20 in the front. Feels like it gives enough compliance over the terrain while maintaining enough stiffness to help against popping a bead. If I am doing trail stuff where I might be crawling over some rocks I am in the mid to low teens.

I’m usually cruising around anywhere between 25 to 50 mph depending on the terrain, feels plenty fast for how my truck is setup right now. Sometimes faster In the early morning when the sand is nice and smooth, it’s a lot of fun, but once it gets all chopped up by other riders you can’t really go as fast. At least that’s from my own experience. I can only see the safety envelop and speed increasing with LT and larger tires.

I assume those are LT-C since most in that size are? I noted that the racing tires [MENTION=118321]Jetboy[/MENTION] pointed out are LT-C and not LT-E. Wonder what the E-load only crowd has to say.

I honestly don't find my mud terrains to be annoyingly loud, Hankook Dynapro MT. I just crank up the stereo on long trips and don't worry about it. But I'm only 23 and that may be the difference.

I'd get a nice set of all-terrains as a second tire, but its just more money and more hassle for me. Never seriously considered it to be honest.

Good for you! Some of us are too old and spoiled:roll:
 
Thanks! Good to know. I remember very well that when the KO2 was released BFG claimed gravel life of 2,000 miles. I guess that means racing speeds.

My use is nothing like that but is substantial enough to make my tires last half of what they are advertised. So the BFG numbers helped me a great deal in realizing that this is simply part of the deal.

If you had the chance to legally go very fast in a well-prepared 4runner on regular use 32-34" tires, what tires would you choose and what pressures would you run?

I don't really have a great tire choice that is better than anything else for going fast in the desert type terrain. I think for me I'd want a few things that are all competing with each other. Ideally something light weight, but also very durable, and has great traction in all types of terrain. Since there's really nothing that fits that description, my preference is for something more along the lines of an AT type tire. I have Cooper AT3s that I'm generally really happy with. I don't spend a lot of time out jumping in the desert, but I get a chance periodically. So far the traction is pretty good in everything except mud, the weight is reasonable, and they're nice for highway miles to and from the trails. But I really can't say that they're better or worse than a lot of other choices. I just haven't had a chance to compare back to back.

If I were spending nearly all my time in the desert going fast, I think the ideal tread patter looks something like the ATTURO trail blade
atturo-trail-blade-xt-tires.jpg


But I haven't really heard anything about them other than that they don't balance well and most of the sizing is for show trucks, not off road use. I also don't know what rubber compound they use. So I'd probably go for something like a BFG KM3, a Maxxis 772, Cooper STT Pro, or something like that. What I would generally look for is something with a durable tire casing and a tread that has a lot of biting edges without too much void area. Short of testing a bunch of tires side by side I really have no idea though.

As far as use on my FJ40 - It's just not safe to go too fast. But I would not choose a Swamper TSL that I have for overall trail duty. Mud tires are not a great choice for sand in general unless you have enough power for paddles, and TSL's are not great for dry packed dirt traction. They're also very heavy and unbalanced.

What does work well is big tires and more sidewall. A 37" tire would feel a lot more confident than a similar 33" tire on pretty much everything to me.

I run my 34" tires down around 18-20psi going fast in the desert. Last year I went out to hike near the end of the hole-in-the-rock road in southern Utah. Our hiking trailhead was about 70 miles out off the pavement. The road is very heavily washboarded with periodic desert "wash" crossings that can be really rough. Most traffic out there only goes the first few miles and they go at around 10mph - that is about how fast you'd want to go in a subaru or other crossover comfortably. Going 70 miles out would take 7 hours each way. I do that run out in about an hour. Meaning at times I'm 80mph+ and leaving the ground occasionally and at other times I'm slowed down to 30mph when I see other traffic or come up to blind hills/corners. I've found 20psi works well for that type of driving. Softens up everything a lot, but not soft enough I'm risking a pinch flat on the wheel.

That's also where the higher level of shocks and springs start to really shine. There was Jeep Cherokee trail hawk out there the last time. On the heavy washboard it was all he could do to keep the thing pointed the direction he wanted to go at around 25mph. It was bouncing all over the place trying to get sideways. Once I had a chance to pass I could easily run the same conditions at 50+. It's just night and day how much better the Fox suspension is at that task. I've also been out there in an ICON Tacoma - same thing. Worked great. Stable. Comfortable. It probably makes more difference to have shocks valved well and sized appropriately than having the best tire choice.
 
It probably makes more difference to have shocks valved well and sized appropriately than having the best tire choice.

They all work together to create that balance for a good driving experience… I’ve had ok suspension with nice tires, nice suspension with ok tires, and nice suspension with nice tires… The latter is where it all came together.

When I did run a heavy E load with nice suspension, it just felt like you had less suspension. I could tell I was working the suspension more. A lot of that chatter and weight was pushed into the shocks instead of the tires soaking it all up.

I did find that with a good balance, it’s pretty hard to tell what is tire and what is suspension. At that 18-20 PSI range, they blended together very well.
 
The road is very heavily washboarded with periodic desert "wash" crossings that can be really rough. Most traffic out there only goes the first few miles and they go at around 10mph - that is about how fast you'd want to go in a subaru or other crossover comfortably. .


Another great post, [MENTION=118321]Jetboy[/MENTION], thanks!

But nothing is perfect: you are very, very wrong about Subaru speeds on Hole in the Rock or elsewhere:rofl::tea:

That said, yes, your post helps me better understand the value a higher performance suspension could have in my case.
 
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Another great post, [MENTION=118321]Jetboy[/MENTION], thanks!

But nothing is perfect: you are very, very wrong about Subaru speeds on Hole in the Rock or elsewhere:rofl::tea:

That said, yes, your post helps me better understand the value a higher performance suspension could have in my case.

I'd love to go rally someone else's Subaru out there. I love subarus. But I probably wouldn't do it in one that I owned. I would go out there no problem. But I wouldn't be going 50+. I just don't think the OEM Subi suspension is really setup well for that type of abuse at high speeds for very long. And the tires are kinda light duty the common sizes too. But with an aftermarket solution and some small BFGs like I see on some of them - I think it could be pretty great as a vehicle for that purpose. Probably better than a 4Runner as long as you took it easy on the washouts.

You obviously don't need anything special suspension or tire wise to go out there. I've driven out there once in a Impreza wagon. It's really just a matter of speed and comfort.

Really the worst thing you could probably do is put 1500lbs of weight on and then go try to do it. It's easy to go overboard on modifications and have a result that's less useful for the common stuff than what you started with in the first place.
 
I'm about half a year into my first 4Runner (2018 TRDORP)... haven't done a lot to it yet... have taken one 3-week roadtrip and have been getting out off-roading about once a month.

I'm still in the original tires, but have been planning on getting off-road tires this spring.

HOWEVER... my gas mileage sucks. It's really awful at about 15 MPG average as my daily driver. (20-21 when I'm traveling) San Diego is pretty constant up-down (hills) and stop-start.

I'd love to get E-rated tires, either 275 or 285/70R17, but I just can't take the gas mileage hit.

I'm thinking about just biting the bullet (cost-wise) and getting a second set of wheels to put the off-road tires on, then running the original tires when using the 4Runner as my daily driver, and swapping wheels when heading out on a trip or local offroad run.

Anyone doing this? Any reason this is a bad idea (other than the cost of the wheels)?

Why E rated?

I'd say get a set of stock size C-load KO2s and rock on. Just for comparison, per Tirerack.com a stock Dunlop weighs 39lbs and a stock size KO2 C-load weighs 44lbs. There's really not a big hit to mpg. I get 18.5mpg around town over 40k miles on my KO2s.
 
Shouldn’t be any different than swapping winter tires and summer tires twice a year. I am not a mechanic, but I cannot see how doing this once a month would be an issue assuming you know how to change tires properly and safely and not over torque.
 
I have two sets for the reason mentioned above. Firestone Winterforce on right now and BFG AT TKO's for summer. I basically run the winter from mid Nov to Mid April and the summers the rest of the time. I know there's a kid on a youtube channel with a 4Runner that swaps BFG KM3's (I think) at the beginning of every video. I agree with the comment of not wearing dress shoes when hiking. The more purpose suited an item is, the better it will work for that task. the idea of a 'great all-arounder" is almost never true. I ski with a guy with a half dozen pairs of skis, some he doesn't use on the east coast at all, one is only for out of bounds etc. Tires are the same way, cars themselves are the same. it all comes down to basic economics, what you're willing to sacrifice to get what you want.

I know this, when you're using tires for what they are for, they are more effective and more efficient. Street tires will save you money on gas, but also handle better on the road (cornering, stopping distance etc.) and obviously if the difference between tire A and tire B is being able to complete a trail or obstacle or not then the choice, assuming you can afford it, is obvious.
 
Everyone made their fair points here about tires and sizes but another option I would invest into are lighter wheels. If you are willing to buy lighter than stock wheels in the future then you can save a possible 8 pounds of rotational mass.
 
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It would be nice to have some lighter wheels... do you have any suggestions?

I just buy OEM rims because of cost... Usually get them pretty cheap.

Personally I don't care about style points and looks, I think I might consider buying my new set of rims only because I don't want to run spacers.

I recently learned about the F5 rim, but not sure if there are other options.
 
FN and SCS wheels pretty much dominates the hub centric Toyota lighter wheel aftermarket. I'm swapping my 28# 17x8 Level 8 MK6 -10offset for the same size FN Countersteer Type X that weighs 20.5#. I had 1.25" wheel spacers before with stock sr5 and pro stock 265 p nitto grapplers combined weight of 74#. I'm currently running 285/70/17 P rated Wildpeak AT3w which is 50.5#. I should be able to notice the continuous fluctuating diet from 74#, 85.1, 78.5, to a 72# eventually.

At 85.1# I ran the 57.1# 275 C Wildpeak for a week but the 2mpg lost, slow freeway acceleration, freakin Houston traffic killed me. So I opted for 285 P and now waiting for my wheel exchange from discountiredirect.com.
 

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