AOB switch and Black Oak lights wiring

[Paragon1]

This link may help for using an AOB switch in lieu of the switch that came with the LED kit. I assume you have a good reason to wire both spots independently (like ditch lights), otherwise you could wire the two spots to a single harness and use one switch.

The 3 wires from the Black OAK switch are likely 1) Hot lead (12 volt positive +), 2) Relay trigger wire (connecting hot lead to this wire would engage/trigger relay turning on light bar), 3) Ground wire (negative -), but please check the wiring diagram that game with your harness.

As Saker's wiring diagram above, for illumination, the AOB switch wiring is:
Black - Connect to gray factory wire (- dimming)
Blue - Connect to green factory wire (+)
Red - Connect to relay trigger wire to power the relay when switch is engaged/turned on
Green - Connect to hot lead (ignition source in your case using adapter below to provide power when ignition is on)

Use THIS to tap into your fuse box for activating the switch with ignition on.

Picture courtesy of MTN4RNR.

Just wanna confirm that's a 10 fuse in the adapter, correct?

I'm gonna stick to mechanical mods from now on

 

[cutty01]

Just wanna confirm that's a 10 fuse in the adapter, correct?

I'm gonna stick to mechanical mods from now on

10A is more than enough. I believe the relay needs less than 1A to energize the secondary circuit. The fuse you choose should take into account the gauge of the thinnest wire in the circuit and the needs of the switch/device.

Nah, you got this. I knew nothing about automotive electrical 3 months ago. I just watched a bunch of videos, read threads by [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION], and others, and asked questions just like you are now. Don't give up yet.

 

[Paragon1]

10A is more than enough. I believe the relay needs less than 1A to energize the secondary circuit. The fuse you choose should take into account the gauge of the thinnest wire in the circuit and the needs of the switch/device.

Nah, you got this. I knew nothing about automotive electrical 3 months ago. I just watched a bunch of videos, read threads by [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION], and others, and asked questions just like you are now. Don't give up yet.

Cool, I'll probably throw a 7.5 in it. I really appreciate the help fellas. Seriously. If it weren't for this forum.....well, in truth is save a buttload of money.

 

[cjacob316]

Why are people afraid to use the 12V supply on the relay instead of tapping into an ignition on 12V supply? These switches are not easy to accidentally engage, and if you turn them on in a situation where you actually need it, I don't think there is any way you wouldn't notice they were still on.

 

[Paragon1]

Why are people afraid to use the 12V supply on the relay instead of tapping into an ignition on 12V supply? These switches are not easy to accidentally engage, and if you turn them on in a situation where you actually need it, I don't think there is any way you wouldn't notice they were still on.

Id say it's because...fear. lol. I have no idea, and don't know enough about electrics to be any sort of help. To me "ohms" have something to do with yoga.

 

[rigtec]

Why are people afraid to use the 12V supply on the relay instead of tapping into an ignition on 12V supply? These switches are not easy to accidentally engage, and if you turn them on in a situation where you actually need it, I don't think there is any way you wouldn't notice they were still on.

Hi cjacob316,

You assume that people are (((afraid))) when modifying the 'Technically advanced', Ground-Side switching and ECU managed, electrical systems in their GEN-5 4Runners. But 'why not' take full advantage of Toyota's well engineered, 'Fail-Safe' interior courtesy circuit system? Just as an observation, over the last couple of years I'm seeing that more and more forum members are doing their own data searches, gathering information from other qualified members, rolling up their sleeves and taking on some advanced electrical tasks that they never would have attempted two years ago; this means that the members here are growing exponentially... in knowledge, in passion, and in confidence!

I'm also noticing that guys who are more technically inclined, are more inclined to Integrate their own electrical plans with that of the vehicle's manufacturer; as opposed to wiring an 'Independent' harness (a simple kit that's wired under the dash and straight to the battery; having it's own circuit fuse and switch...etc). IMHO, the former is a much more sophisticated wiring system and shares the Toyota factory wiring, fuses, relays...etc! ...And as you alluded to earlier: there's no chance of accidentally leaving the power on when IGN-1 and ACC are turned off!

'Best to you' rig

 

[BusterScruggs]

So I tried this, got it working for a bit, then all of a sudden all the lights went off in the overhead panel, the stereo side lights, the ac lights, and the wiper lights, sill get power to the green wire on the wiper switch, but the grey wire seems to not work.

When i run a lead off the gray wire to a metal spot on the frame all the lights turn back on? any ideas?

 

[BusterScruggs]

Okay got some more info:

Here is my situation:
All the lights went off in the overhead panel, the stereo side lights, the ac lights, and the wiper lights, sill get power to the green wire on the wiper switch, but the grey wire seems to not work.

When i run a lead off the gray wire to a metal spot on the frame all the lights turn back on? any ideas?

Also the dimmer switch still dims the gauge cluster and the radio screen, but if I touch the lead from the wiper switch to metal and get the lights back on, they wont dim now... Took apart the dimmer and its not burnt.

I am completely lost as to what happened and where. I went and looked at interior pictures on google to see if something wasn't lighting up trying to pinpoint where the short is but everything turns on when I touch the lead from the grey wire to metal, even the wiper switch still works.