Approx coolant loss when pulling the inlet to check Tstat?

[Endlessblockades]

Something isn't right with new radiator/cap/TStat/Hoses. I lost my shade tree (friend moved north) and had a shop I trust install my OEM parts. I thought I was running hot before! I want to have sufficient replacement coolant on hand in case I do a poor job catching the (new OEM Longlife pink) coolant. Going to see what's up (or down) with the jiggle valve. Odd thing is that over the course of the first post-repair trip i took, The engine seemed to go from 203 climbing mountain grades during the day (outside temp 85) and down to 195 coasting down to 206/208 cruising along the highway at night (outside temp 60s). At the end of the return trip (110 miles - Salinas area to SF on 101) it was at 210/212 at the first red light in SF. The clutch fan is working. If I was running water it would be boiling. The coolant in the overflow res is cold. Would I lose less with the cap on of off? Not clear on the fluid dynamics. With the TStat closed, just the radiator would gravity drain some at first, right? I assume it stays in the block until I remove it. Maybe I need to drain the radiator first?

 

[phattyduck]

Sounds like the jiggle valve is wrong (well, right for basically every engine but the 5vz).

You'll drain out most of the fluid from the cooling system there - do it in a controlled manner from the bottom of the radiator so you can catch it in a clean bucket. Open the radiator cap so it comes out in a continuous stream instead of 'glugging' out.

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

Sounds like the jiggle valve is wrong (well, right for basically every engine but the 5vz).

You'll drain out most of the fluid from the cooling system there - do it in a controlled manner from the bottom of the radiator so you can catch it in a clean bucket. Open the radiator cap so it comes out in a continuous stream instead of 'glugging' out.

-Charlie

Thanks man

 

[pluton]

Based on my 97 and draining the coolant 4 times so far:
If you let the radiator drain go until it completely stops, maybe over an hour, very little coolant will blurp out when you pull the thermostat housing. If you quit draining as soon as the the outflow slows to a small dribble, prepare to lose at least a liter onto the ground when you lift off the thermostat housing.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Based on my 97 and draining the coolant 4 times so far:
If you let the radiator drain go until it completely stops, maybe over an hour, very little coolant will blurp out when you pull the thermostat housing. If you quit draining as soon as the the outflow slows to a small dribble, prepare to lose at least a liter onto the ground when you lift off the thermostat housing.

Thanks for that. Should I be stressed that it's running at 206.6 around town while i sort this out?

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks for that. Should I be stressed that it's running at 206.6 around town while i sort this out?

No, there are probably a hundred thousand 5vz's out there operating just like that. It will still be much better to operate in the 'normal' range as much as possible though. Up to something like 215 or 220 is still 'ok' by the FSM, though I don't have an exact reference on that one.

-Charlie