ARB Compressor install - Switch Wiring

[AllenL]

I've searched quite a bit and cannot find any answers. I've got a pretty weak grasp on electrical issues so take it easy on me.

Basically, I've got the compressor installed and wired up, I just haven't been able to finish wiring the in-cab switch. I'm using this as an OBA setup with no lockers. The switch is plugged into the ARB harness in the 'isolation switch' position. My problem is which wires to tap into for the switch power and the switch dimming, so basically a wire that gets 12v when the ignition is "on" and one that controls based on the panel dimming. I'm looking for wires that can be found behind the switch panel on the left side of the wheel. I can't find a good wiring diagram, nor can I get my multimeter point into the switch connectors to determine the voltages (and thus the "ignition hot" wire and "variable ground" wire).

So far I tried to splice into the green wire going into the panel dimming switch (which didn't work).

Thanks in advance. I'm just looking to finish this little project up!

 

[jrandom]

I actually wired my switch in the engine compartment (i'll move it into the cab if I ever need to) anyway, I just tapped into a fuse in the cab that was ignition only and ran a lead back through the firewall, so the switch obviously only works when the key is on. That said, when I wired my Rigid LED's I was contemplating having the switch I got from Slee work with the dimmer. I planned to just tap a wire from the actual dimmer switch since it was right there. I don't recall specifically which wire it was but I did have it working. I seem to recall just pin tapping into the back of the connector with a multimeter until I found the wires voltage that changed with the dial. I dropped that until I can get an amber LED to replace the switches green.

 

[AllenL]

I actually wired my switch in the engine compartment (i'll move it into the cab if I ever need to) anyway, I just tapped into a fuse in the cab that was ignition only and ran a lead back through the firewall, so the switch obviously only works when the key is on. That said, when I wired my Rigid LED's I was contemplating having the switch I got from Slee work with the dimmer. I planned to just tap a wire from the actual dimmer switch since it was right there. I don't recall specifically which wire it was but I did have it working. I seem to recall just pin tapping into the back of the connector with a multimeter until I found the wires voltage that changed with the dial. I dropped that until I can get an amber LED to replace the switches green.

ALright, I'll have to try checking the voltage at the connector again. Otherwise I may just wire it up in the bay like you've got it. I considered this but have already pulled the loom into the cab and routed everything in the engine bay.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

I've searched quite a bit and cannot find any answers. I've got a pretty weak grasp on electrical issues so take it easy on me.

Basically, I've got the compressor installed and wired up, I just haven't been able to finish wiring the in-cab switch. I'm using this as an OBA setup with no lockers. The switch is plugged into the ARB harness in the 'isolation switch' position. My problem is which wires to tap into for the switch power and the switch dimming, so basically a wire that gets 12v when the ignition is "on" and one that controls based on the panel dimming. I'm looking for wires that can be found behind the switch panel on the left side of the wheel. I can't find a good wiring diagram, nor can I get my multimeter point into the switch connectors to determine the voltages (and thus the "ignition hot" wire and "variable ground" wire).

So far I tried to splice into the green wire going into the panel dimming switch (which didn't work).

Thanks in advance. I'm just looking to finish this little project up!

I'm a little confused what you're going for here. If you're trying to find a power source to provide the current necessary to run your compressor (your compressor wiring harness should plug into a relay, but verify to avoid blowing fuses), and you only want to be able to turn your compressor on when the key is in, then tap into the "P/OUT" circuit by the parking brake fuse panel. Do this with an "add a circuit" from auto zone or the like.

If you're simply trying to get the switch to illuminate when your other dash lights are on, run a tap from the green wire on RSCA OFF (or really any switch there that always gets power when headlights are on). You can do this with a scotch lock or any wire tap. Or if you're brave, soldering.

Hope this helps.

 

[jrandom]

[MENTION=97614]swimmerdude1127[/MENTION] I understand the want to illuminate/dimmer the switch and ignition on. That is the only power that switch needs, the rest comes from the supplied harness IIRC

Lol that is a PITA isn't it! Getting anything through those firewall boots is a lesson in patience. Peeling them off was easier than forcing through in my cases but getting them back on again ugh that trunk is a bit too rigid.

If you do end up pulling it back through I would leave a few dead leads in its place for an easier pull if you ever intend on doing anything else that needs to go through there.

I am hoping to wire another set of lights this weekend, I am waiting on a relay and connectors. I need to move the dimmer switch down to the lower knock outs, I'll try to remember to test it again and snap a pic or two. I guess following that wire may be better, see where it ends up. Maybe someone has already?

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Lol that is a PITA isn't it! Getting anything through those firewall boots is a lesson in patience. Peeling them off was easier than forcing through in my cases but getting them back on again ugh that trunk is a bit too rigid.

If you do end up pulling it back through I would leave a few dead leads in its place for an easier pull if you ever intend on doing anything else that needs to go through there.

I am hoping to wire another set of lights this weekend, I am waiting on a relay and connectors. I need to move the dimmer switch down to the lower knock outs, I'll try to remember to test it again and snap a pic or two. I guess following that wire may be better, see where it ends up. Maybe someone has already?

IIRC the dimmer doesn't actually dim the OTRATTW switches. Can't speak to the provided ARB one.

 

[jrandom]

IIRC the dimmer doesn't actually dim the OTRATTW switches. Can't speak to the provided ARB one.

Hmm no idea either, they look the same, not that that means anything, I wired mine in the engine compartment so never bothered to check, only for ignition on.

For dimmer I am only speaking from my experience with the Slee switches I've used.

 

[Jeremy556]

IIRC the dimmer doesn't actually dim the OTRATTW switches. Can't speak to the provided ARB one.

Mine dim, but not nearly as much as the rest of the dash. They kind of go from burn your retinas out if you glance in their direction, to holy shit that's bright.

 

[Okki]

Details on running your wires can be found in my build thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/94578-okkis-build-thread.html#post834323

My OTRATTW switches don't dim (at least not visibly) either. if I were to do it again, I would simply wire them straight to a 12v source and not bother with the dimmer.

Also think a LOT about your placement of the switches. I'm going to be moving mine to the center stack. when short people (i.e my wife) drives my truck, she keeps hitting the switches with her knee in the current location.

Okki

 

[AllenL]

[MENTION=97614]swimmerdude1127[/MENTION] I understand the want to illuminate/dimmer the switch and ignition on. That is the only power that switch needs, the rest comes from the supplied harness IIRC

Lol that is a PITA isn't it! Getting anything through those firewall boots is a lesson in patience. Peeling them off was easier than forcing through in my cases but getting them back on again ugh that trunk is a bit too rigid.

If you do end up pulling it back through I would leave a few dead leads in its place for an easier pull if you ever intend on doing anything else that needs to go through there.

I am hoping to wire another set of lights this weekend, I am waiting on a relay and connectors. I need to move the dimmer switch down to the lower knock outs, I'll try to remember to test it again and snap a pic or two. I guess following that wire may be better, see where it ends up. Maybe someone has already?

Yeah, you pretty much nailed it.

The ARB harness has a lead to tie into a variable voltage wire, specifically to control the dimming, but it may not make a real big difference. I'd settle for power alone for now.

 

[AllenL]

Details on running your wires can be found in my build thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/94578-okkis-build-thread.html#post834323

My OTRATTW switches don't dim (at least not visibly) either. if I were to do it again, I would simply wire them straight to a 12v source and not bother with the dimmer.

Also think a LOT about your placement of the switches. I'm going to be moving mine to the center stack. when short people (i.e my wife) drives my truck, she keeps hitting the switches with her knee in the current location.

Okki

Okki - I had read through your build thread probably five times while I had things torn apart and was searching the interwebz, but i missed your mention of the green wire and the add-a-circuit to P/outlet. I don't have an rsca switch, but i already tried tapping the green wire off the dimmer switch, so you're saying this is the dashboard dimming wire? This didn't power th

Also, the add-a-circuit is genius! I just ordered one. THanks Okki + Swimmerdude on that one.

I think I need to make sure I hooked up the rest of the harness correctly, and then I'll give this a try. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[jrandom]

Also think a LOT about your placement of the switches. I'm going to be moving mine to the center stack. when short people (i.e my wife) drives my truck, she keeps hitting the switches with her knee in the current location.
i

Exactly! why I choose the Slee switches (of course realizing you only have a couple of factory slots available) I wish Air On Board would get more of the amber 900 series switches in!

But yeah for a full switch bank there are definitely better places that the left of the steering column. I have seen a few folks do some sweet panels in the center stack

 

[Señor_Godric]

Hey guys I'm in dying need of help with this ARB compressor (not the duel conpressor) installation. I don't know where to connect the green wore and the yellow/red wire. I guess the green one is for the dimmer/ illumination and the red I need to splice it some where. Can you guys help me out plz!!!! Any pictures with help out

 

[2chains]

Try this

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/212067-arb-compressor-aob-switch-install.html

 

[SkateyNate]

If you're ok with just having an on/off switch next to the ARB compressor within the engine bay, my post here may help

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3507426-post8.html