ARB diff breather question

[SFL_driver]

The ARM kit comes with 8m (approx. 26ft) of 8mm polyurethane tubing. This is not enough length to run two lines (diff and e-locker) up from the back into the engine bay.
My options then are to either 1. get more 8mm tubing and run two lines or 2. use a T fitting to connect the two lines towards the rear.

I bought some quick connect T fittings. Although I still like the idea of using 2 uninterrupted lines instead of a fitting.

Thought? I'd like to hear what others have done.


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[sandcrawler]

The ARM kit comes with 8m (approx. 26ft) of 8mm polyurethane tubing. This is not enough length to run two lines (diff and e-locker) up from the back into the engine bay.
My options then are to either 1. get more 8mm tubing and run two lines or 2. use a T fitting to connect the two lines towards the rear.

I bought some quick connect T fittings. Although I still like the idea of using 2 uninterrupted lines instead of a fitting.

Thought? I'd like to hear what others have done.


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it is/was enough for me to run two separate lines and mount the manifold just aft of the driver's side hood strut.

 

[Cymon]

It is enough, at first it was discussed in my breather mod for dummies (linked in my signature below) that it may not be enough but since the write up multiple people have run it. Just measure twice and cut once.

 

[Moto69Joe]

It is enough, at first it was discussed in my breather mod for dummies (linked in my signature below) that it may not be enough but since the write up multiple people have run it. Just measure twice and cut once.

I only ended with 6-8' left over. Well short for both lines sadly. I only ran the one line to the passenger side firewall.

 

[BadassBox.net]

It's absolutely enough cut the line in half and as mentioned run it to the engine bay by the strut. There's actually two nice punches already there for you for the self tapping screws. I did the e locker and rear on my trdp with no issues.

 

[Cymon]

I only ended with 6-8' left over. Well short for both lines sadly. I only ran the one line to the passenger side firewall.

Mine was run up the driver side. I had 11' left over from the 26'. I was not precise (because I knew I only had to make 1 run). I had approx 2 extra feet of slack in the engine bay and 6" near the differential allowing for any later adjustments. You also (and I may be incorrect about this) but should have another 6-8" since the locker breather is already extended slightly. Add that up and that's 14', so if run more efficiently then what I did (like what [MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION] mentioned in my thread post #30) you should have enough for both with about 6"-1' to spare.

 

[Liquidmantis]

I did both of my runs with the kit's tubing also. No cut drops, I left a bit of slack over the fuel tank in case I need a bit more when the lift gets installed. I currently have the filter on the driver side fender behind the fuse box.

 

[Woz1976-MT]

Are there any problems/issues with using a "T" with the e-locker?

Getting close to my silver TE arriving at my dealer and this is one of the first that I want to do.

Also, I've discovered that there are breathers for all of the other drivetrain components already in the engine bay. My understanding, though, is that they are all the one-way valves and with thus cause a vacuum in the front diff, A/T, and transfer case. Has anyone every spliced into these lines, and then added lines to the ARB breather (my understanding is you can have a total of 4 lines running to the breather)?

If more "T"s are added (for the front components), will the pressure difference/vacuum equalize at the same rate even though there will be some constriction in the lines?

Thanks in advance for the advice and wisdom!

 

[MisplacedTexan]

The vacuum that accumulates with the one way valve isn't the problem in its entirety. The problem with the rear diff breather was that it's pretty low, and may pull water in if rapidly cooled when crossing deepish water.

The breathers on the rest of the parts are already raised, so there's no worry of that. Them being a one way valve and creating a vacuum isn't so bad. They put breathers on the cases to keep them from becoming over-pressured when they heat up from driving.

 

[SFL_driver]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be installing this weekend.


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[mgosts]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be installing this weekend.


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You can run them up next to fuel filler line. I am gonna do this on sunday. Cant recall who, but another poster did this. I already got behind the splash guard, hardest part, and took a look. It is really clean up there and just about as high as it would be in the engine bay.


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[Guamsta]

It's absolutely enough cut the line in half and as mentioned run it to the engine bay by the strut. There's actually two nice punches already there for you for the self tapping screws. I did the e locker and rear on my trdp with no issues.

Thanks for sharing the pics. Will be doing this soon. Question. Did everything come with the ARB kit to do both or did you have to get some extra parts to do both. I see in last pic there a vacuum connector box? Assuming extra part?

 

[BadassBox.net]

Thats the only extra piece youll have to buy if you go with the arb kit. Its used to step down from the arb tube size to the e locker tube size. Others have posted a reducer in a "help" pack but i had to make my own from a kit that was instock. The far bottom right is the factory e lock breather (black with silver) and the diff breather is to its left. Arb fitting screws right in place of the factory diff breather.