Are 305s too much for the V6?

If you guys had a choice to lock the front or rear what would you choose? I only have enough to do one axle. Each locker is about 900.

What's wrong with the LSD? Best of both worlds I think. Plus its 1/2 the price with no maintenance


LSD only gives you 90 percent total lock across the axle where a locker gives you 100% lock

you want to lock the rear first then the front later as in some cases you don't want all 4wheels spinning as it can cause horizontal sliding left and right on slippery hill climps a rear locker will always be of value in any sticky terrain you also want selectable lockers so you don't increase tire wear taking turns in town.

look at eastcoastgearsupply.com they sell complete built third members with lockers for way less than what ur looking to get into as well as complete built front ifs housings they start at 525 a price then go up as you add gears and lockers I was quoted 2800 for complete built ready install front clamshell and rear third with 4.56 gears a TJM locker in the rear and a ARB locker in the front (TJM has a better solenoid design for our rear axles than ARB)

btw I know how to read a tape measure I was giving you the measurements of my tires on the vehicle yes that measurement is shy of 33 due to tire compression under the weight of the vehicle.
 
you also need to understand that in tire sizing 305/70/R16; 285/70/R16; 265/70/R17; etc.... the first number the " "/70/R16 is the width of the tire

305mm= 12.007"

295mm= 11.614"

285mm = 11.220"

275mm= 10.826"

265mm= 10.433"

( " = inches)

the second number, The 70 is the tires Aspect Ratio (the ratio of the sidewall height to the tread width). The R represents radial tire construction. The 16 represents the rim/wheel size.

National Tire : Tire Basics : Understanding Your Tires

^^ you should read this it should help you understand a thing or two about tires.
 
I was quoted right around 2800 as well for afull regear (4.56 and an ARB in the rear.) I would probably stick with ARB because I already have the OBA.

Austin sorry i offended your measuring skills. Was not my intention. :)

Wouldnt it be better to lock the front as there will be a greater chanceof the wheels leaving the ground due to the ifs?
 
I was quoted right around 2800 as well for afull regear (4.56 and an ARB in the rear.) I would probably stick with ARB because I already have the OBA.

Austin sorry i offended your measuring skills. Was not my intention. :)

Wouldnt it be better to lock the front as there will be a greater chanceof the wheels leaving the ground due to the ifs?

lets say you put a locker up front and not the rear... a wheel in the air isnt going to get traction weather you have a locker or not, yes having the locker will then tranfer equal power over to the wheel on the ground, at this point you have one tire up front pulling, one tire up front in the air, and you may have both rear tires on the ground however if one spins your back to 2 wheel drive the one tire up front and the one tire in the back spinning due to the nature of an open center differential the power goes to the tire with the least amount of frictional load.

lets say you put a locker in the back and take the same approch... you now have the same tires on the ground and the one tire up front in the air. without the locker in the front the one tire in the air is going to spin freely without any power transfer to the other side...However, with your rear locked and both rear tires on the ground or one tire loaded with most of the weight and the other tire just barely digging both tires will transfer all the power they can to the ground, yes your back to two wheel drive but its the two wheels with the most load from the vehicles on them pushing you forward.

(speaking ofcourse about a somewhat off-camber hill/rock climb like this... IMG_5487.jpg)

had he only had his front locked his right rear tire would have cought the rock in front of it in the pic and begun to spin leaving it up to the front tire and that right rear spining tire to pull him up.. which wouldnt happen unless he had momentum behind it which you wouldnt want to just slam into an obstical like this...

as soon as his rear tires push him a bit further he then has his front tire in the air back loaded to the next rock to assist pulling the ass end up the rocks behindh im..this guy has his rear locked and his front is stock open center however he has 4.56 gears only difference being he welded his rear spider gears to gain the rear "locker" lol so his isnt selectable its just always locked in the rear lol.
 

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if you go with the ARB in the rear i just want to advise you they have a design issue where the spool lock actuator in the carrier is just infront of the air line that powers it.. so as your engaging, disengaging, engaging, disengaging.. the actuation actually becomes somewhat of a pump, pumping gear oil back up into the air supply line, in effect not allowing you to engage properly.. ARB made a fix for this it just involves another piece to the puzzle in the air supply line going to the rear your going to manifold it in such a way that there becomes a constant (low pressure) air suppy in the line to prevent gear oil from entering the air supply line to the locker. then when engaged obviously its going to send the proper pressure to engage the locker

and any OBA system will power any air locker just FYI

and i was quoted 2800 for front locked and geared and rear locked and geared together not just the rear or not just the front but both built and ready for 2800 total but i live close to there store so i wouldnt have shipping costs i suppose add about 60 bucks to that for me to get there and back. and i dont have OBA yet so i would still have to purchase a compressor so add maybe another 200 cause you can find those things used cheap all day
 
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Austin do you have any tucking issues with the 305s? Can the rear wheels fully tuck into the wheel well? Did you lose any articulation?
 
they tuck up in the fenders perfectly front and rear on my rims (the setup i have would be equivalent to a factory rim with a 1" wheel spacer with 305/70's)

I did have to do the body mount chop as the front tires would hang up on it at full turn full tuck. Before I installed the RB 1.25 Body lift the tires woud slightly rub my front bumper corner edge and the bottom rear of the front fender flare. So I did a little bumper timming before the body lift. i could probably have just put the body lift on and not trimmed, but for moderate to difficult offroading you'll wanted to get those body mounts out of the way..

with that said i never had one issue rubbing wise driving on the road it was mainly just offroading i would get rubbing issues. I'm looking into 35's next time i need a new set of rubber ill let you know what i have to do to get them to fit up front lol, I've extended my rear bump stops already to allow for 35's on the back that way they can't tuck in to far. the bump stop extensions came in my overland warehouse 2.5 rear extended travel kit as well as a rear brake line mount drop forward bracket to push the brake lines out and down a little further closer to the rear axle.
 
Do you think ill be OK with 305/70-16s with the body mount chop done?

No body lift or spacers. 4.5 backspacing on my mojaves.

Aftermarket bumpers
 
Do you think ill be OK with 305/70-16s with the body mount chop done?

No body lift or spacers. 4.5 backspacing on my mojaves.

Aftermarket bumpers

yeah thas right you have the aftermarket bumper you should be fine for sure my backspacing is 4.25 so your just a 1/2" closer to your UCA than I am(i have a 1/4" wheel spacer in to get my rims to clear my calipers lol). and you wont really have to worry about the body mount until the next off-road trip you won't rub it unless your off-roading.

you may see slight rubbing off-road of the bottom inside rear of the front fender flares just minor nothing damaging.. and worse case senario just pic up a 1in body lift from toytec there fairly inexpensive compared to everything else in your build lol
 
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