Scramble
New member
Very interesting.
Are my headlights too bright?
- Thread starter Bigmd
- Start date
Very interesting.
Dropzone
New member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/39701-how-adjust-headlights.html link is from this forum
do you have access to a 10mm and a wall?
Well i had truck out tonight and the more I drove it seemed like my high beams were on while the headlight switch was in normal position. When i left Chili’s and was driving toward a big tinted window of one of the stores , I checked them. Way bright in normal position and when I put the switch in high beam position they went back to normal. So not sure what’s going on. The harness was simple to hook up and doesn’t seem like there was any way to do it wrong. I did cut the DRL wire in harness under dash . Wonder if that has anything to do with it. Gonna email the seller.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
You're driving around with your brights on?! [emoji23]*
There are 3 pins in the connector that plugs into the connector that used to power your driver side headlight, but now powers your new relay harness.
The high and low beam pins must be swapped. [MENTION=85414]I_bRAD[/MENTION], using a relay harness will DEFINITELY improve the output of any halogen lamps you use in a 4Runner [emoji1360]
There are 3 pins in the connector that plugs into the connector that used to power your driver side headlight, but now powers your new relay harness.
The high and low beam pins must be swapped. [MENTION=85414]I_bRAD[/MENTION], using a relay harness will DEFINITELY improve the output of any halogen lamps you use in a 4Runner [emoji1360]
pluton
Senior Member
As someone who has added a custom-made harness to the last 3 vehicles I've owned(all older Toyota trucks/Land Cruisers), the harness depicted in the ebay link looks well-made. If so, it's a good deal at $90. The ones I've been using are up to about $140 now.
I use slightly higher (60/67W) wattage bulbs than stock, which is my main reason for the harness. I don't remember having noticed a brightness difference when I installed it, because I quickly installed the brighter higher wattage bulbs.
I use slightly higher (60/67W) wattage bulbs than stock, which is my main reason for the harness. I don't remember having noticed a brightness difference when I installed it, because I quickly installed the brighter higher wattage bulbs.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Aim should definitely be checked. However, electrical aspect is significant.
U.S. (non-DRL) Third-Gen headlight wiring has not evolved from the old way.
1998 U.S. MODEL WITHOUT DRL
Positive path runs through a relay close to the battery, BUT the wires for ground side run from the bulbs, back to the cabin, to the dimmer-combo switch/stalk, and back to body ground on the "Cowl Side Panel" (which could be back in the engine compartment?) That's means long and thinner wires and the dimmer-combo switch/stalk contacts take a beating from the high current. 4Crawler calls it a convoluted path
1998 CANADA MODEL (WITH DRL)
Bulb current does not run back to dimmer combo switch anymore, but there seems to be a whole lotta wiring, probably thin wires, too.
U.S. Third-Gen headlight wiring^^^ is same as earlier gens'. Rather than buying a harness to correct the problem, I rewired my (first-gen) headlights
Voltage Drop Comparisons:
With Sealed Beam & Engine off
Stock Wiring
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.05V, Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 11.15V
Voltage drop in wiring: 0.9V
volt drop = 7.5% of battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt 11.94, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 10.07
Volt drop: 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit:
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.31V, : Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 12.11V
Volt Drop: 0.2 = 1.6% of Battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt: 12.24V, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 11.78V
Voltage drop: =0.46V = 3.75% of battery voltage
Will translate to difference in power when I get the chance.
Yes. Power runs over a shorter path from battery, possibly on thicker wires, AND it will help extend the life of the dimmer-combo switch.
The Canada model (with DRL) kind of does (current passes through relays), but there's too much wiring. The U.S. model is worse. It has not evolved from earlier-gens.
On U.S.model (no DRL), YES you would. Canada models (with DRL), not as much.
Exactly.
U.S. (non-DRL) Third-Gen headlight wiring has not evolved from the old way.
1998 U.S. MODEL WITHOUT DRL
Positive path runs through a relay close to the battery, BUT the wires for ground side run from the bulbs, back to the cabin, to the dimmer-combo switch/stalk, and back to body ground on the "Cowl Side Panel" (which could be back in the engine compartment?) That's means long and thinner wires and the dimmer-combo switch/stalk contacts take a beating from the high current. 4Crawler calls it a convoluted path
1998 CANADA MODEL (WITH DRL)
Bulb current does not run back to dimmer combo switch anymore, but there seems to be a whole lotta wiring, probably thin wires, too.
Yes,
U.S. Third-Gen headlight wiring^^^ is same as earlier gens'. Rather than buying a harness to correct the problem, I rewired my (first-gen) headlights
Voltage Drop Comparisons:
With Sealed Beam & Engine off
Stock Wiring
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.05V, Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 11.15V
Voltage drop in wiring: 0.9V
volt drop = 7.5% of battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt 11.94, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 10.07
Volt drop: 15.7% of battery voltage!
After Retrofit:
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.31V, : Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 12.11V
Volt Drop: 0.2 = 1.6% of Battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt: 12.24V, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 11.78V
Voltage drop: =0.46V = 3.75% of battery voltage
Will translate to difference in power when I get the chance.
YES. Note different circuits used on non DRL and DRL models above. Depending on what model the harness was made for, this may have to be done if used on the other model.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I added relays for hi and low beam on my CJ7 and what a difference it made. I made it myself and used hi quality relays and relay pigtails or it would have been half the price.
I should look at doing it to the 4Runner. Those wires at the bulbs are way small.
Edit. When he says not for factory fogs is he refering to the newer fog setup with the switch on the stalk or any 3gen?
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I should look at doing it to the 4Runner. Those wires at the bulbs are way small.
Edit. When he says not for factory fogs is he refering to the newer fog setup with the switch on the stalk or any 3gen?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I'm guessing this harness is converting the switched common light control to switched positive with the common of the bulb now to ground.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pretty sure i know what happened. I replaced the driver side headlight plug with a aftermarket universal from advance auto. The wires were all black so i soldered thinking it didn’t matter . I’m guessing it matters. I may just cut off the passenger side since it’s not used anymore.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
If you have already disabled your DRL, and that is in fact not kicking on your high beam circuit- two of the three pins in the connector depicted below need to be swapped.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
If you mean "Switched-GROUND" on the model with no DRL, yes.
Schematics above^^^
The DRL model already switches positive side to select high or low beam. Then it puts a resistor in series with the ground side for DRL mode, or bypasses it with the relay for headlight mode.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
If anyone goes this route with harness only and would like to share photos or brightness gains (thanks RAD4Runner for the voltage stats but I have no clue how to translate it lol) let me know. Just getting new housings (I've always had 65w bulbs) was a huge help, wondering if I could do even better though.
EDIT: I found this, forgot I looked at this years ago. Is this accurate with the lumen ratings?
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
EDIT: I found this, forgot I looked at this years ago. Is this accurate with the lumen ratings?
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
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RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Mr Stern sounds like he knows what he's doing so unless proven wrong, I'll trust his figures.
Re: 65-Watt bulbs, IF you have a U.S. model, then the contacts on your dimmer-combo switch are bing subjected to the high current that Mr Stern is talking about. A conversion harness will not only sen more power to your bulbs, it will also relieve the dimmer-combo switch contacts of the current load and help increase its life.
I'd pay twice for a harness made by a dude in his garage in Colorado over one made in the communist bully of Asia.
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