nevada
Senior Member
yes, that is correct.
At wits' end: yes another highway vibration thread!
- Thread starter 96LTDrus
- Start date
yes, that is correct.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Wait, hold up. You said a magic word. Are your tires lug-centric and not hub-centric? Did you have to put spacers on your tires when you did the brake swap?
If you are lug-centric, you're going to be fighting vibrations every time you hit a pot hole or take a sharp turn. It's just how it is. Some people get lucky and they don't have any vibration, or at least not at first. Going back to hub-centric will fix the problem.
Not sure how tires themselves can be any kind of centric... my one set of wheels are the factory split spoke 16s, the other set are later-model Tacoma 5 spoke 'star' 16s. OE lugnuts with the long shoulder that sits snug in the wheel lug holes and have washers seem to fit both styles of wheels correctly. No spacers. I'm confident that the vibration issue can be solved, it just needs a competent person with the right equipment doing the job.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Just checking, I'm not familiar with the Tacoma wheels but seeing the two vehicles have so much in common they are probably ok. Stock wheels are obviously hub-centric, which means the wheels fit very snug over the wheel hub. Any vertical or lateral forces (hitting a bump, driving over a curb) are absorbed by the hub. Lug-centric is when you put a different set of wheels that do not fit snugly over the hub so the impact is absorbed by the lug nuts. Obviously, over time the lug nuts will loosen or bend ever so slightly causing your vehicle to always be out of alignment.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
OP, you basically have the right idea. Consistent vibrations are always caused by a spinning part. So your variables are tires/wheels, brake rotors, wheel bearings, u joints, possibly a propeller shaft out of alignment, rear main bearing.
I had an entire thread on this called "Jitters on bumps". Its like 12 pages long, and why I affectionately named my truck Jitters. I still have the vibrations today, and Im still convinced its in my tire/wheel balance. Im running wheel spacers which certainly may be a contributing factor for me. But the point is, after almost 4.5 years of trying to get rid of these vibrations, I still haven't. Im convinced it is still in the tire/wheel/hub balance, as frusterating as that is.
Now, as I have replaced more and more parts in the front end, it has continuously felt better and better. Like you said, a worn suspension part is not the direct cause of a vibration. But especially on these trucks, worn front end parts will significantly magnify the vibrations. So if you have any looseness in the front end, replacing such parts may help significantly. The biggest one for me was the new steering rack. Made a world of difference
I had an entire thread on this called "Jitters on bumps". Its like 12 pages long, and why I affectionately named my truck Jitters. I still have the vibrations today, and Im still convinced its in my tire/wheel balance. Im running wheel spacers which certainly may be a contributing factor for me. But the point is, after almost 4.5 years of trying to get rid of these vibrations, I still haven't. Im convinced it is still in the tire/wheel/hub balance, as frusterating as that is.
Now, as I have replaced more and more parts in the front end, it has continuously felt better and better. Like you said, a worn suspension part is not the direct cause of a vibration. But especially on these trucks, worn front end parts will significantly magnify the vibrations. So if you have any looseness in the front end, replacing such parts may help significantly. The biggest one for me was the new steering rack. Made a world of difference
Scramble
New member
Yep, I think I've narrowed down my latest vibration to the double cardan joint.
So an update for everyone, good and bad news.
Good news: my service adviser at Butler Toyota was fantastic, and set me up with the master tech to do the balancing. He was the only tech at the dealership who even knew about the TSB. He even came out to the waiting room to show me the Haweka adapter. Wheels balanced out fine, the initial job was infact done wrong.
Bad news: On the drive home, while the previous, consistent vibration was gone, the more familiar one that I've lived with since I bought the truck is as prevalent as ever. It comes and goes at 65-75, hitting bumps can either stop or start it. Feels more central to the truck rather than from the wheels. Perhaps I need to take a look at my driveshaft again. I'm visiting my brother's shop in a few weeks when I travel home for Christmas, we'll see if he finds anything.
Good news: my service adviser at Butler Toyota was fantastic, and set me up with the master tech to do the balancing. He was the only tech at the dealership who even knew about the TSB. He even came out to the waiting room to show me the Haweka adapter. Wheels balanced out fine, the initial job was infact done wrong.
Bad news: On the drive home, while the previous, consistent vibration was gone, the more familiar one that I've lived with since I bought the truck is as prevalent as ever. It comes and goes at 65-75, hitting bumps can either stop or start it. Feels more central to the truck rather than from the wheels. Perhaps I need to take a look at my driveshaft again. I'm visiting my brother's shop in a few weeks when I travel home for Christmas, we'll see if he finds anything.
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Good to hear the wheels are sorted. Question on central vibration have u by chances replace the rack and pinion bushing just curious. I am currently fighting a wobble/Vibration at those speeds. I suspect shocks. But was curious.
Yes replacing the steering rack bushings actually helped a fair amount with the amplitude of these coming-and-going vibrations. I had poly units installed, the rack definitely had some extra play in it before the repair.
I've been doing more searching online, and what I've read is that worn control arm bushings can cause high speed vibrations and some vibrations while braking as the front end loads up. This precisely matches my symptoms, and sort of fits the narrative of the vibrations sometimes stopping and starting after I hit a bump on the highway. Mind you, I've never heard a sound from the front end, and when my brother has looked it over in the past with a pry bar nothing was obviously moving around. And my brakes never cause a shudder when braking at lower (sub 55mph) speeds.
Does anyone have a good source for the LCA/UCA bushings? Preferably OEM, I hear the poly units can squeak...
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Without actually going to a dealer I just simply use the aftermarket option at Rockauto.com and choose the non poly
RockyMtnYota
New member
I've had the exact same issue as OP. I have a 1999 Limited with the 5 star wheels, 120K. I bought the truck from parents at 112K and drove 600 miles home never felt anything. Just started noticing this issue over the summer. Its my wife's DD and she doesn't seem to care, if this was my DD I would be trying things every weekend as it drives me crazy anytime I'm driving. I replaced brakes (rotors and pads), tires balanced and rotated, replaced the steering rack bushings. Same intermintent vibration but it moved from about 55-60 to 65-75mph after the changes which is more annoying. OP, sounds like this drives you just as crazy as me please follow up when you solve this!!! Seems rediculous that this happens and the source can't be found. BS.
Last edited:
I got Moog pieces off AutohausAZ, gonna have my brother install them over the holidays when I visit. Fingers crossed! Obviously if he takes the a-arms out and the bushings are fine he won't swap them, but for $75 in parts total for both sides upper/lower bushings it's not the biggest gamble.
Just decided to update this situation in hopes of helping others that may be in the same boat.
I went and got the winter wheels rebalanced at the Toyota dealer, I met with one of the more experienced service advisers who was very understanding and knew about the TSB SU002-96. He set me up with their oldest mechanic, a guy who's been wrenching on Toyotas for 32 years. He knew about the TSB and pulled out the Haweka adapter and even came to the waiting room to show it to me. They did the work at no charge since I had previously gone there for the balancing.
Got the truck back and there is no longer that very consistent shake in the wheel at very certain speeds, which I had suspected was in fact a poor wheel balancing job. Now, I'm back to 'ground zero:' the minor wobbles that come and go on the highway at 70 mph, felt mostly by my knees. No shake in the steering wheel. And braking from high speeds, and only under certain conditions induces a shudder. I can brake coming off an off-ramp and the truck is perfect. Braking down a steep hill seems to cause very obvious shudders.
I ordered Moog rubber control arm bushings upper/lower for both front sides, as well as the camber bolts. About $160 all in for parts. My brother started to take things apart at his shop and found the lower bushings had some play, but were by no means shot. Uppers he said felt like new. Taking the bushing sleeves out has proven to be quite time consuming. A rusty swaybar link broke while he was working so a pair of new Moog parts were acquired from the local Advance Auto store for $40 a side (highway robbery, I know).
Waiting with baited breath to see what comes of all this. Not looking forward to the bill either. If I were doing it all over I'd strongly consider buying the whole Moog lower control arms for $93 a side off rock auto and saving some money on labor.
Just to break it down, the truck now has:
Tundra 199mm brake upgrade (Brembo rotors, Advics pads)
KYB front struts
Energy Suspension steering rack bushings
Correctly balanced (per TSB) OEM Tacoma wheels
checked u joints on driveshaft
All balljoints are tight, steering rack seems in perfectly good shape.
No clunks or noises from the suspension.
In progress:
Moog lower control arm bushings
Moog swaybar end links
I went and got the winter wheels rebalanced at the Toyota dealer, I met with one of the more experienced service advisers who was very understanding and knew about the TSB SU002-96. He set me up with their oldest mechanic, a guy who's been wrenching on Toyotas for 32 years. He knew about the TSB and pulled out the Haweka adapter and even came to the waiting room to show it to me. They did the work at no charge since I had previously gone there for the balancing.
Got the truck back and there is no longer that very consistent shake in the wheel at very certain speeds, which I had suspected was in fact a poor wheel balancing job. Now, I'm back to 'ground zero:' the minor wobbles that come and go on the highway at 70 mph, felt mostly by my knees. No shake in the steering wheel. And braking from high speeds, and only under certain conditions induces a shudder. I can brake coming off an off-ramp and the truck is perfect. Braking down a steep hill seems to cause very obvious shudders.
I ordered Moog rubber control arm bushings upper/lower for both front sides, as well as the camber bolts. About $160 all in for parts. My brother started to take things apart at his shop and found the lower bushings had some play, but were by no means shot. Uppers he said felt like new. Taking the bushing sleeves out has proven to be quite time consuming. A rusty swaybar link broke while he was working so a pair of new Moog parts were acquired from the local Advance Auto store for $40 a side (highway robbery, I know).
Waiting with baited breath to see what comes of all this. Not looking forward to the bill either. If I were doing it all over I'd strongly consider buying the whole Moog lower control arms for $93 a side off rock auto and saving some money on labor.
Just to break it down, the truck now has:
Tundra 199mm brake upgrade (Brembo rotors, Advics pads)
KYB front struts
Energy Suspension steering rack bushings
Correctly balanced (per TSB) OEM Tacoma wheels
checked u joints on driveshaft
All balljoints are tight, steering rack seems in perfectly good shape.
No clunks or noises from the suspension.
In progress:
Moog lower control arm bushings
Moog swaybar end links
sterbenlicht
New member
I see a lot of stuff on here about this adapter, but odds are, the road force balancing he did (also TSB relevant) is what fixed the problem. Not the adapter. Glad to hear your balance issues are more under control now. Highway vibrations are extremely frustrating.
Last edited:
allwheeldrive
New member
I just read this thread, and it hits home. I've had a vibration usually around 70mph plus or minus a few. I've balanced and phase matched my tires, which are michelins btw. I know my steering rack has some play inside the rack. I've replaced the inners and outers last year, and found more play inside the rack. That's my next fix. I'm pretty sure that's my issue. I've got new rack bushings, sway bar bushings and links. U-joints are good, suspension is good.
If you can get the front end off the ground, get underneath and push out on both front tires at the same time, check for any movement from in the steering rack.
If you can get the front end off the ground, get underneath and push out on both front tires at the same time, check for any movement from in the steering rack.
Okay, here's the latest update for those who are interested.
Long story short: LCA bushings made handling excellent, no change to vibes. Suspected u joint replaced, seemed to work for a bit (?) but now makes a noise of its own, previous vibes still occasionally present.
$700+ parts/labor later, I now have new LCA bushings installed, and a new rear u joint. The front suspension is now tight as a drum, steering and handling have never been better.
However, the LCAs had nothing to do with the vibration. When my brother took them out the front bushings of the lower control arms on both sides had some play, the rear bushings were pretty good and the top arm bushings were like new. I had him install the Moog camber bolts along with Moog bushings. Quite a bit of work, I'm glad I wasn't the one doing the labor on those :sorry:
Through some test driving, after the suspension work, my brother concluded that the vibrations only start when throttle is being applied and a decent amount of torque is on the driveshaft, at higher speeds. Such as taking on a smaller hill when the torque convertor stays locked up. He took the driveshaft off and found the rear u joint to be slightly tight in one axis. He replaced it with a Moog part. For a while it seemed like things were finally all set. But driving back to Indiana yesterday, I was still feeling those occasional vibes around 70 mph, that came and went with engine load. Additionally, when I let off the gas at 70mph completely, there is now a high frequency "BRRRR" which feels exactly like a bad u joint.
My brother said that the new joint was in fact a little tight in one axis, and he figured it would 'break in' shortly. I guess my next step is to take the driveshaft to a local shop that can rebuild/rebalance it.
Let me reiterate that these vibrations are not that strong and of a low frequency, the only way I can tell they're there is to look down at my leg and see that it's shaking a bit. Steering wheel is dead calm. I can hit a stretch of road that is flat/downhill and the truck is absolutely sublime, as smooth as a 2014 truck. Then I'll hit a bump or start climbing and this small vibration starts back up again. Chinese water torture to an OCD guy like me!!!
Long story short: LCA bushings made handling excellent, no change to vibes. Suspected u joint replaced, seemed to work for a bit (?) but now makes a noise of its own, previous vibes still occasionally present.
$700+ parts/labor later, I now have new LCA bushings installed, and a new rear u joint. The front suspension is now tight as a drum, steering and handling have never been better.
However, the LCAs had nothing to do with the vibration. When my brother took them out the front bushings of the lower control arms on both sides had some play, the rear bushings were pretty good and the top arm bushings were like new. I had him install the Moog camber bolts along with Moog bushings. Quite a bit of work, I'm glad I wasn't the one doing the labor on those :sorry:
Through some test driving, after the suspension work, my brother concluded that the vibrations only start when throttle is being applied and a decent amount of torque is on the driveshaft, at higher speeds. Such as taking on a smaller hill when the torque convertor stays locked up. He took the driveshaft off and found the rear u joint to be slightly tight in one axis. He replaced it with a Moog part. For a while it seemed like things were finally all set. But driving back to Indiana yesterday, I was still feeling those occasional vibes around 70 mph, that came and went with engine load. Additionally, when I let off the gas at 70mph completely, there is now a high frequency "BRRRR" which feels exactly like a bad u joint.
My brother said that the new joint was in fact a little tight in one axis, and he figured it would 'break in' shortly. I guess my next step is to take the driveshaft to a local shop that can rebuild/rebalance it.
Let me reiterate that these vibrations are not that strong and of a low frequency, the only way I can tell they're there is to look down at my leg and see that it's shaking a bit. Steering wheel is dead calm. I can hit a stretch of road that is flat/downhill and the truck is absolutely sublime, as smooth as a 2014 truck. Then I'll hit a bump or start climbing and this small vibration starts back up again. Chinese water torture to an OCD guy like me!!!
Just another update, partially for my own reference but hopefully someone else could benefit in a future search as well.
Took the rear driveshaft off this weekend, if you recall my brother replaced the rear u joint because it felt a little tight in one axis. Nothing felt out of wack, all the u joints both front double cardan and rear seemed to move smoothly through their full travel, not loose and not too tight. Replacement unit was a Moog heavy duty joint.
The truck has been back to 'square one' but because I'm more attuned to the issue, it is definitely correlated with applying torque, ie driving up a hill or into a headwind. Letting off the throttle seems to quell things. It's strange because for a week or so after the joint replacement things were good, totally smooth.
The driveshaft is at a local shop now getting looked at, I described the issue to them and they said they'd balance it and replace the rear joint if it was warranted. I asked if there was anything peculiar about Toyota driveshafts that could make them more susceptible to balancing and he mentioned that the yokes are at an angle? I've also seen something mentioned online about 'spacing' of the joint.
I'll update everyone once I reinstall the shaft. Fingers crossed! This is getting exhausting but it will certainly be worth it. During those times when the vibrations aren't present, the 4Runner rides and drives like a totally new truck with all those other parts I've replaced (suspension and steering bushings)
Took the rear driveshaft off this weekend, if you recall my brother replaced the rear u joint because it felt a little tight in one axis. Nothing felt out of wack, all the u joints both front double cardan and rear seemed to move smoothly through their full travel, not loose and not too tight. Replacement unit was a Moog heavy duty joint.
The truck has been back to 'square one' but because I'm more attuned to the issue, it is definitely correlated with applying torque, ie driving up a hill or into a headwind. Letting off the throttle seems to quell things. It's strange because for a week or so after the joint replacement things were good, totally smooth.
The driveshaft is at a local shop now getting looked at, I described the issue to them and they said they'd balance it and replace the rear joint if it was warranted. I asked if there was anything peculiar about Toyota driveshafts that could make them more susceptible to balancing and he mentioned that the yokes are at an angle? I've also seen something mentioned online about 'spacing' of the joint.
I'll update everyone once I reinstall the shaft. Fingers crossed! This is getting exhausting but it will certainly be worth it. During those times when the vibrations aren't present, the 4Runner rides and drives like a totally new truck with all those other parts I've replaced (suspension and steering bushings)
Mynameistommy510
New member
Looking forward to your results!
