Atlas or Dual Cases?

I said I'm trying... There's nothing that say down the road this won't be on 60 and 40's. But for now it's a nice DD, and weekend wheeler. I do a lot of snow wheeling and it's a real pain in the ass to drag the trailer queen out for snow runs.

If your going to stay within your current build spec's, I would just install a reduction box in front of your stock transfer case. With 35's and IFS it should hold up okay, and the newer chain drive transfer cases can be found easier than the gear drive stuff.

If there is a chance you will be going 60's and 40's, then I would go Atlas. By the time you upgrade all the internals your pretty close to the same price range as an Atlas, and not nearly as strong as one. There are several people blowing up even the upgraded internals of the Toyota transfer cases. I've seen it first hand. I would rather not have my transfer case be the weak link in my drivetrain!
 
I said I'm trying... There's nothing that say down the road this won't be on 60 and 40's. But for now it's a nice DD, and weekend wheeler. I do a lot of snow wheeling and it's a real pain in the ass to drag the trailer queen out for snow runs.
I understand that. I have the same problem.
so I thought id start wheeling my 85 runner. that lasted 2 trips, until I was back to the trailered rig. :D
 
I understand that. I have the same problem.
so I thought id start wheeling my 85 runner. that lasted 2 trips, until I was back to the trailered rig. :D

So you get where I'm coming from. Basically want my cake and eat it too.

The trainer queen is so much fun in the now, but dam it's a lot of work to go do a snow run or day run...hell any run.
 
If your going to stay within your current build spec's, I would just install a reduction box in front of your stock transfer case. With 35's and IFS it should hold up okay, and the newer chain drive transfer cases can be found easier than the gear drive stuff.

If there is a chance you will be going 60's and 40's, then I would go Atlas. By the time you upgrade all the internals your pretty close to the same price range as an Atlas, and not nearly as strong as one. There are several people blowing up even the upgraded internals of the Toyota transfer cases. I've seen it first hand. I would rather not have my transfer case be the weak link in my drivetrain!

That's kind of what I'm struggling with. There's a good chance it will go SAS, and I don't want to redo more than I have to "if" that happens. Having the T-Case as the weak link is what I'd like to avoid. I've blown up my share of gear driven duals.:mmph:
 
I understand that. I have the same problem.
so I thought id start wheeling my 85 runner. that lasted 2 trips, until I was back to the trailered rig. :D

I did just pick up an 85 4runner sr5 5speed...









It was CHEAP...I couldn't pass it up.
 
I did just pick up an 85 4runner sr5 5speed...









It was CHEAP...I couldn't pass it up.

nice. mine WILL be my wheeler eventually. I just have to get a few more things set up first. mainly my front 60 dealt with. it needs narrowed, geared, locked, steering...

wheeling with only the rear locked is bullshit. I had to go back to my truck.
 
nice. mine WILL be my wheeler eventually. I just have to get a few more things set up first. mainly my front 60 dealt with. it needs narrowed, geared, locked, steering...

wheeling with only the rear locked is bullshit. I had to go back to my truck.

That's not going to be cheap. But worth every penny.

I think I'm just going to flip mine. I've got to many as it is...
 
Holy s*&^ I never even thought about the transfer case 'needing' an upgrade. This thread is way above my pay grade :p
 
I don't see any need for an Atlas if you're going to keep it IFS. My friend is finishing his 3rd gen build right now - ford kp 60 and 14 bolt rear on 40's and he dropped a 4 speed Atlas in it. He waited 12 weeks and paid around $5500-6000 to get it at his feet……
 
I would rather not have my transfer case be the weak link in my drivetrain!

Slightly off topic but I've heard a philosophy that you run cheap U-joints so that they are the weak link in the drivetrain. That way it's a cheap and quick fix, and you just carry a whole bunch with you and that way you aren't blowing gears or axles or cases. Any reason that ideology wouldn't work?
 
It biggest issue with the double box is the way the main bearing is made. It has a notched race from it manufacturing of the bearing. It is suppose to have been updated and a non-issue now but I know two people that had a bearing ball pop our while driving.

Of these two, one is running 2.28 gears and the other 4.7 gears. It sounds like the 4.7 gears really are too low. Remember that with both (doubler and stock cases) in lo, you have a lo ratio of ~5.7:1.

Honestly, this bearing issue is the main reason keeping me from adding a doubler. It would be the 2.28:1
 
Slightly off topic but I've heard a philosophy that you run cheap U-joints so that they are the weak link in the drivetrain. That way it's a cheap and quick fix, and you just carry a whole bunch with you and that way you aren't blowing gears or axles or cases. Any reason that ideology wouldn't work?

I guess you could, but I hate fixing stuff on the trail (including u-joints). The stock Toyota u-joints are actually really strong. My buddy broke a Longfield output shaft with just a stock re-tubed Toyota driveshaft. The other issue is when parts break a lot of times they damage the part they are connected to, so you would have to carry spare driveshafts or axles with you. Don't get me wrong, the Toyota stuff is great but it's really only reliable up to 35"-37" tires.
 
I have heard that there has been a revision to the bearing to prevent this. I can not confirm nor deny this.
 
It biggest issue with the double box is the way the main bearing is made. It has a notched race from it manufacturing of the bearing. It is suppose to have been updated and a non-issue now but I know two people that had a bearing ball pop our while driving.

Of these two, one is running 2.28 gears and the other 4.7 gears. It sounds like the 4.7 gears really are too low. Remember that with both (doubler and stock cases) in lo, you have a lo ratio of ~5.7:1.

Honestly, this bearing issue is the main reason keeping me from adding a doubler. It would be the 2.28:1

I've had a couple friends with the same issue with the bearings as well. That's definitely a concern.

I know the duals have a good lo range, I've got 3 dual set ups. 1 turbo set up with 4:7's, 1 regular with 4:7's, and a 2:8 set. I've never had a toy with out'm. it's the greatest mod ever.
 
It biggest issue with the double box is the way the main bearing is made. It has a notched race from it manufacturing of the bearing. It is suppose to have been updated and a non-issue now but I know two people that had a bearing ball pop our while driving.

Of these two, one is running 2.28 gears and the other 4.7 gears. It sounds like the 4.7 gears really are too low. Remember that with both (doubler and stock cases) in lo, you have a lo ratio of ~5.7:1.

Honestly, this bearing issue is the main reason keeping me from adding a doubler. It would be the 2.28:1
4.7's really is too low.
I generally only use double low when the snow gets shitty. the rest of the time single low works fine.


I have heard that there has been a revision to the bearing to prevent this. I can not confirm nor deny this.
yes, its a double wide bearing now.

that's what im running. I got the 10* clocked adapter, and updated bearing.
no issues to report so far. but I pretty much only snow wheel. I am running a v8, with spools and 38's, but theres not a lot of pressure on the drivetrain in the snow. not like the rocks.
 

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