jjolles
New member
I ordered it from Newegg for $799. Crutchfield would not price match.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIACPN5AN0315
I think I even saw it online from sears and Kmart for around $809.
Audio Upgrade?
- Thread starter jjolles
- Start date
I ordered it from Newegg for $799. Crutchfield would not price match.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIACPN5AN0315
I think I even saw it online from sears and Kmart for around $809.
a few of my thoughts:
sounds like and I am guessing you are having it done at a reputable shop since you are purchasing Hertz equipment. I always urge to purchase it all from a shop to keep your warranty intact. Especially a head unit. Since Newegg is not a Pioneer authorized dealer (clearly shown on their webpage) you may have trouble getting it serviced in the future. Not only this, but if it ever needs service you will be out of pocket to have it removed and replaced, and, be without a radio until you get it sorted out. If the shop is holding the line and won't budge and come close to matching it then I completely understand the need to find the lowest price. But just be prepared in the small chance if you have a failure. I just had an 8200 fail on a client, and since he bought from us, he received a brand new unit and installation at no cost to him. However, we are also very aggressive and will match sites like Amazon and many online sites. Electronics are much different than nerf bars. Stuff happens. Just food for thought.
As far as what you purchased for amps and speakers I think it will sound great. To improve what you purchased I would absolutely add FAST foam rings to the speakers and add a minimum of one sheet of dampening material to the door. The more the better. Remember speakers were never meant to be in a car door, it's an awful environment for them. So give them a good home. The FAST rings are hands down the best upgrade you can make to a car speaker. Very inexpensive as well. I think JL makes a great sub, but a sealed 10" may not light your fire. If you like output, either port it, or go to a 12". Or audition it, and ask the shop if you can swap it after a week of hearing it. And don't forget small details like steering wheel retention and USB retention, which you'll need for Apple CarPlay. An 8200 has dual USB so keep that in mind if you want both.
For the defense of sounding like a snob, keep in mind that the stock systems in most Toyotas are absolute garbage, so anything you do to them will make an improvement. So with that said, one issue that I find with this vehicle is front speaker placement. The doors are very far away from the dash, and, they are on different axis points (meaning that they fire in different directions), which is not a great thing. They should be on the same axis, and closer together. Unfortunately the T4R does not lend itself for any easy tweeter placement other than the factory location. So what you end up with imaging and sound quality that's less than ideal. Most people in my experience are still very happy, just be aware that there are better options to get it even better. One upgrade that is really awesome is to do a Hertz Mille 3" in the dash crossed over at 250hz and up(yes it will run all the way to 20k and almost flat...and no tweeter needed), and run a 7" Hertz Mille midbass in the door from about 60hz to about 250hz. This provides some awesome SQ. It requires some electronic sorcery and tuning to make it achieve it's potential and we can start a whole thread on it but it's really, really good.
And as far as keeping the stock head unit I would say no problem. The EQ curve shown in this thread really isn't too bad. A lot better than most. Not to say that a processor can't help but if you are a DIYer, or have a shop doing the install that is not versed in tuning and lack an RTA it won't break you. The beauty about the factory head unit is that it's wide and easy to use. When you go to an aftermarket screen, you lose the nice wide layout with hard buttons. Obviously there are benefits to swapping it, just merely talking about the positive attributes with stock unit. Plus, if the stock radio is short on features, adding a BeatSonic video input is a really nice upgrade to get Nav and video.
Good luck with your system, it should turn out super nice.
sounds like and I am guessing you are having it done at a reputable shop since you are purchasing Hertz equipment. I always urge to purchase it all from a shop to keep your warranty intact. Especially a head unit. Since Newegg is not a Pioneer authorized dealer (clearly shown on their webpage) you may have trouble getting it serviced in the future. Not only this, but if it ever needs service you will be out of pocket to have it removed and replaced, and, be without a radio until you get it sorted out. If the shop is holding the line and won't budge and come close to matching it then I completely understand the need to find the lowest price. But just be prepared in the small chance if you have a failure. I just had an 8200 fail on a client, and since he bought from us, he received a brand new unit and installation at no cost to him. However, we are also very aggressive and will match sites like Amazon and many online sites. Electronics are much different than nerf bars. Stuff happens. Just food for thought.
As far as what you purchased for amps and speakers I think it will sound great. To improve what you purchased I would absolutely add FAST foam rings to the speakers and add a minimum of one sheet of dampening material to the door. The more the better. Remember speakers were never meant to be in a car door, it's an awful environment for them. So give them a good home. The FAST rings are hands down the best upgrade you can make to a car speaker. Very inexpensive as well. I think JL makes a great sub, but a sealed 10" may not light your fire. If you like output, either port it, or go to a 12". Or audition it, and ask the shop if you can swap it after a week of hearing it. And don't forget small details like steering wheel retention and USB retention, which you'll need for Apple CarPlay. An 8200 has dual USB so keep that in mind if you want both.
For the defense of sounding like a snob, keep in mind that the stock systems in most Toyotas are absolute garbage, so anything you do to them will make an improvement. So with that said, one issue that I find with this vehicle is front speaker placement. The doors are very far away from the dash, and, they are on different axis points (meaning that they fire in different directions), which is not a great thing. They should be on the same axis, and closer together. Unfortunately the T4R does not lend itself for any easy tweeter placement other than the factory location. So what you end up with imaging and sound quality that's less than ideal. Most people in my experience are still very happy, just be aware that there are better options to get it even better. One upgrade that is really awesome is to do a Hertz Mille 3" in the dash crossed over at 250hz and up(yes it will run all the way to 20k and almost flat...and no tweeter needed), and run a 7" Hertz Mille midbass in the door from about 60hz to about 250hz. This provides some awesome SQ. It requires some electronic sorcery and tuning to make it achieve it's potential and we can start a whole thread on it but it's really, really good.
And as far as keeping the stock head unit I would say no problem. The EQ curve shown in this thread really isn't too bad. A lot better than most. Not to say that a processor can't help but if you are a DIYer, or have a shop doing the install that is not versed in tuning and lack an RTA it won't break you. The beauty about the factory head unit is that it's wide and easy to use. When you go to an aftermarket screen, you lose the nice wide layout with hard buttons. Obviously there are benefits to swapping it, just merely talking about the positive attributes with stock unit. Plus, if the stock radio is short on features, adding a BeatSonic video input is a really nice upgrade to get Nav and video.
Good luck with your system, it should turn out super nice.
mthrtrkr
New member
Not sure how the color of your truck is relevant to speakers :nod:
HeresRonnie
New member
Post up your impressions after your install. I'm looking to replace my system as well, definitely need a little more sound quality to music.
jjolles
New member
Color is relevant because it obviously bothered you for some reason.
roborob1969
Member
I'm thinking about getting the Focals too .. what model #'s did you get for the dash, and Amp? Any special install to get the amp in?
Motoman_TRD
Junior Member
I am very happy with my LC7 line output converter.... you will need something to grow your system. Right now I added sub/amp (JL Audio) and very happy with the 8 speaker system. The LC7 will allow me to change out pairs of speakers as budget allows and add another amp for highs......
adventure4runner
New member
You're going to love it. I am running Hertz HSK 165 in the front, Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp, JL 12 w6 in a ported box, speakers in my rear and tailgate. All my doors and tailgate is dynomatted. I decided to run my stock headunit so I needed a bypass rewire. This is on my 17 TRD OFF-ROAD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Motoman_TRD
Junior Member
I ended up going with the JL Audio W6 12" woofer and RD500.1 amp..... makes my hair dance and pants legs shake! Love it!
I have to agree with placing a 3" in the dash, we're lucky to have enough room in our cars to fit one in there. I have a illusion audio c3cx point source in there and it sounds amazing and makes the sound stage much more believable with having 350hz and up in the dash with a lot less blockages between them and your ears. Here is what I'm running in my car:
pioneer avh-4200nex
Mosconi 4to6dsp
Arc audio xdiv2 1100.5
oncore 10" sub (new company from the original guys of image dynamics)
Illusion Audio C6 midbass
Illusion Audio c3cx point source
stock speakers for rear seats (i fade 95% front anyway)
here is my stack fab enclosure for the sub, looks 100% oem:
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I went with the PS 165F's in the front, and PC 165's in the back. The amp is the FD 4.350 - could have gone up another level, but it fit well under the drivers seat.
Had a shop do the install - installer said it was pretty straight forward & no issues to get it all in.
Really happy overall & while more amplification & bass would be more better - happy enough not to consider adding/replacing anything else. Sound to me is very clear.
Rocket61
New member
If you can afford it, I would highly recommend an aftermarket head unit. You won't lose features (e.g., steering wheel controls, backup cam) as long as you buy the appropriate modules. Below is an image of what the signal looks like from 0-20 kHz on the stock headunit. Ideally, you would want to start with a flat signal. Notice the dropoff at the low frequencies (left side), that is the stock bass protection and you won't be able to recover that. One thing you can do if you really want to keep the stock headunit is get a DSP that has an onboard EQ so that you can flatten that signal. But honestly, with how cheap head units are these days it's better to get an aftermarket one and get a ton more features.
Thanks for posting this. Exactly what I was looking for. That curve isn't bad at all. I'm going to keep my factory head and get a dsp.
really nice and linear...disappears into the music...great impact for a single 10 in a big suv tucked away in a .5 cubic ft box
I had a local shop here in Atlanta do my install. When designing my system we had a long discussion about digital processor's (not so much if, but which one) and i ended up going with the Audison Bit Ten. The guy who owns the shop did a full JL system years ago so i knew he had an idea of what my expectations were and he advised that of all the places to put money i'd get the most bang for my buck with the DSP. This is really because of what it allows them to do. If i were doing the install, i wouldn't have the first clue how to use one. The final install was:
Hertz
Mille Pro 3 way components (Best set of components i've ever heard. Had JL C5's in my previous car and these blow them away)
Mille Pro Coaxials
Energy dual coil 12'' in sealed box
All powered by an HDP5 and an Audison Bit Ten
End result was phenomenal. I have a TEP and like the stock head unit for the most part and the stock look so i liked that i was able to save that and even thought the Bit Ten was expensive is was cheaper than a new navi headunit.
Hertz
Mille Pro 3 way components (Best set of components i've ever heard. Had JL C5's in my previous car and these blow them away)
Mille Pro Coaxials
Energy dual coil 12'' in sealed box
All powered by an HDP5 and an Audison Bit Ten
End result was phenomenal. I have a TEP and like the stock head unit for the most part and the stock look so i liked that i was able to save that and even thought the Bit Ten was expensive is was cheaper than a new navi headunit.
mrichard89
New member
Any updates on this build?
mrichard89
New member
I love the install! Is this the same one that bing posted over on diymobile? Love the way they were able to hide the sub.
Matt
