Audio Upgrade?

To those who put dynamat in the doors...How much is needed?

I did one 2-door kit for my front two doors. Mostly coated the outer sheet metal with some select strips on the inner panel. The inner panel has quite a bit of ribbing and is pretty stiff, so I opted to not do a full cover like some. If you did a full cover you might need two 2-door kits.
 
I have to agree with placing a 3" in the dash, we're lucky to have enough room in our cars to fit one in there. I have a illusion audio c3cx point source in there and it sounds amazing and makes the sound stage much more believable with having 350hz and up in the dash with a lot less blockages between them and your ears. Here is what I'm running in my car:

pioneer avh-4200nex
Mosconi 4to6dsp
Arc audio xdiv2 1100.5
oncore 10" sub (new company from the original guys of image dynamics)
Illusion Audio C6 midbass
Illusion Audio c3cx point source
stock speakers for rear seats (i fade 95% front anyway)

here is my stack fab enclosure for the sub, looks 100% oem:

10f3vi8.jpg


2r78vnc.jpg

A link to a how to for that custom sub install would be greatly appreciated!
 
Are most people replacing all 8 speakers dash, F+R doors & rear gate? How are you powering all 8 speakers (2 amps)? I have some Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine 2 x 6.5" from my old car and a set of 6x9 my brother gave me sitting around that I want to put into the 4Runner. I'm just not clear as to what to do to power all those speakers.

I understand the stock speakers are wired in parallel dash+front doors & rear doors+gate.

I would like to replace the stock HU as well if that would make it easier, probably go with a 4200 NEX.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
I'll be running 4 amps and an AudioControl LCQ-1 line driver / sound processor using the stock head unit. Hertz HSK163 3 way components up front, Hertz HCX165 coax in the rear doors and tailgate. One Rockford P300X2 amp per pair of speakers feeding about 125 watts to each speaker. Mono Rockford P300X1 amp for a single 10" Image Dynamics sub in the passenger quarter panel. All 12 gauge Sky High speaker wire, even for the tweeters and 8 gauge cable for the subwoofer. Fresh runs to every speaker, no stock speaker wire will be used. 0 gauge power cable into a distribution block and sound deadening over every inch of sheet metal and plastic. Really all depends on how deep you want to get into it.
 
Are most people replacing all 8 speakers dash, F+R doors & rear gate? How are you powering all 8 speakers (2 amps)? I have some Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine 2 x 6.5" from my old car and a set of 6x9 my brother gave me sitting around that I want to put into the 4Runner. I'm just not clear as to what to do to power all those speakers.

I understand the stock speakers are wired in parallel dash+front doors & rear doors+gate.

I would like to replace the stock HU as well if that would make it easier, probably go with a 4200 NEX.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

I just swapped out the fronts with Focal components using the stock head unit. Million times better just doing that.
 
I'll be running 4 amps and an AudioControl LCQ-1 line driver / sound processor using the stock head unit. Hertz HSK163 3 way components up front, Hertz HCX165 coax in the rear doors and tailgate. One Rockford P300X2 amp per pair of speakers feeding about 125 watts to each speaker. Mono Rockford P300X1 amp for a single 10" Image Dynamics sub in the passenger quarter panel. All 12 gauge Sky High speaker wire, even for the tweeters and 8 gauge cable for the subwoofer. Fresh runs to every speaker, no stock speaker wire will be used. 0 gauge power cable into a distribution block and sound deadening over every inch of sheet metal and plastic. Really all depends on how deep you want to get into it.

That's what I figured. I got the speakers for nothing so didn't want to go crazy but it seems if i'm going to do it might as well do it right.

I'm thinking, the 4200 NEX, 1 4ch amp 1 5ch amp, rewire all speakers and build an enclosure for an 8 or 10" sub. I'm assuming a sound processor is only necessary if you're keeping the stock HU (no pre outs)
 
That's what I figured. I got the speakers for nothing so didn't want to go crazy but it seems if i'm going to do it might as well do it right.

I'm thinking, the 4200 NEX, 1 4ch amp 1 5ch amp, rewire all speakers and build an enclosure for an 8 or 10" sub. I'm assuming a sound processor is only necessary if you're keeping the stock HU (no pre outs)

You don't need a 4 channel and 5 channel. Nothing is worth putting in the dash other than a mid or tweeter which would be part of a component system. You would run the door speaker and tweeter off a single channel through a crossover. You can do everything with a single 5 channel unless you want independent control of every pair of speakers. Originally I was going to run the Alpine PDX-V9 but I want more control so i'm going with 1 amp per pair of speakers. I've been doing this a long time and i'm very particular about sound. Said and done i'll be into it for about $3,000 and that's with me doing all the fabrication and install myself.

Which Hybrid Audio speakers were you given? They make some nice stuff.
 
just swapping out the front 4 speakers will make a world of difference without an amp. I am sure with an amp it will sound even better. The rear hatch was not worth the upgrade since the sound stage is so far up front.
 
You don't need a 4 channel and 5 channel. Nothing is worth putting in the dash other than a mid or tweeter which would be part of a component system. You would run the door speaker and tweeter off a single channel through a crossover. You can do everything with a single 5 channel unless you want independent control of every pair of speakers. Originally I was going to run the Alpine PDX-V9 but I want more control so i'm going with 1 amp per pair of speakers. I've been doing this a long time and i'm very particular about sound. Said and done i'll be into it for about $3,000 and that's with me doing all the fabrication and install myself.

Which Hybrid Audio speakers were you given? They make some nice stuff.

Cool, that makes things a bit easier then.

I've got a set of the Imagine I61-2V2 6.5" The tweeter can be removed making it a component/coaxial set I guess. Would it be a good idea to separate the tweeter and throw it in the dash?

For the rear doors I have a set of the HAT Mirus M61-2 6.5"

And then the Imagine I69-2V2 6x9" for the gate. Thanks for all the info!
 
I'll be running 4 amps and an AudioControl LCQ-1 line driver / sound processor using the stock head unit. Hertz HSK163 3 way components up front, Hertz HCX165 coax in the rear doors and tailgate. One Rockford P300X2 amp per pair of speakers feeding about 125 watts to each speaker. Mono Rockford P300X1 amp for a single 10" Image Dynamics sub in the passenger quarter panel. All 12 gauge Sky High speaker wire, even for the tweeters and 8 gauge cable for the subwoofer. Fresh runs to every speaker, no stock speaker wire will be used. 0 gauge power cable into a distribution block and sound deadening over every inch of sheet metal and plastic. Really all depends on how deep you want to get into it.

With that much in to your system, I'm surprised you didn't go with a Mosconi or Helix or other comparable DSP over the LCQ-1. As much as you're putting in to your system, I can only imagine that you actually care about how it sounds. In high end SQ systems, the DSP is the most important part for tuning your system to get the best sound.
 
Not at all the way it works. Quality speaker, more sound. Round speakers also always have better sound quality than any other shape.

There are plenty of great sounding 6x9" options available these days. With a DSP and proper crossover settings, you can get great sound out of these that's very comparable to any round speaker.
 
There are plenty of great sounding 6x9" options available these days. With a DSP and proper crossover settings, you can get great sound out of these that's very comparable to any round speaker.

You'll never make any 6x9 sound like a 6.5" component system. Don't care how good a speaker, amp, processor you're using.
 
With that much in to your system, I'm surprised you didn't go with a Mosconi or Helix or other comparable DSP over the LCQ-1. As much as you're putting in to your system, I can only imagine that you actually care about how it sounds. In high end SQ systems, the DSP is the most important part for tuning your system to get the best sound.

I'm 100% set on the speakers but that's about it. Amps, DSP are still up in the air. I shop pretty much every day and change my mind just as often lol.
 
Cool, that makes things a bit easier then.

I've got a set of the Imagine I61-2V2 6.5" The tweeter can be removed making it a component/coaxial set I guess. Would it be a good idea to separate the tweeter and throw it in the dash?

For the rear doors I have a set of the HAT Mirus M61-2 6.5"

And then the Imagine I69-2V2 6x9" for the gate. Thanks for all the info!

All very nice equipment, just make sure you feed it the power it wants.

Now to answer your questions. Keep the tweeter with in about 10"-12" of the woofer. Putting the woofer in the door and tweeter in the dash will give you an unnatural sound. To much separation in my opinion. I'll be running a 3 way component up front and all 3 drivers will be in the doors. For the rear doors, your 6.5" coax will work very well. The gate uses a 6.5" speaker not a 6x9 IMO do not cut it out just to stuff those 6x9 speakers in there, not worth it. I would recommend another set of 6.5" coax speakers for back there.

Now if you don't want to buy anything else at all and use what you have, run the 6x9 in the front door, 6.5 component in the rear door either as a component system or keep it simple and run it as a coax, same for the gate.
 

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