Has anyone bought and tried these PowerBass OE692-TY?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE...powerbass+oe692+ty&awmt=p&awnw=g&awug=9027651
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE...powerbass+oe692+ty&awmt=p&awnw=g&awug=9027651
Audio Upgrade?
- Thread starter jjolles
- Start date
keyser_soze
New member
What is your budget and what is your goal for this sound system? this will help people give you better answers.
Most people in this thread are suggesting elaborate and expensive options. If this is just because you want better sound out of your 4Runner then most of their suggestions are overkill.
All you need is a 3 (or 5) channel amp that has high level inputs. Decent component speakers for the front. A sub and box. Wiring kit and sound deadening for the install. Can easily be done for under $700.
It will sound miles better than the factory system. If you really want you can add a DSP. The OEM Audio + is $1300/$1700, taco tunes can be less but still expensive. Would you notice a difference from that and a $700 system? maybe, maybe not...
bigbwb
Member
Picked up my 2017 Limited today. I plan to upgrade the front door and dash speakers for some extra clarity. The plan was to get a nice pair of component speakers (mid woofer and separate tweeter) however after reaching out to a higher end installer that I've used before, he was confident that just adding new speakers could sound worse without adding a eq/sound processor like the JL audio fix 82. His opinion was the Stock JBL amp/processor tweaks the sound so much that changing speakers will throw everything out of whack. That's how they get cheap speakers to sound half way decent.
Any thoughts on this? I really don't want to spend more than a few hundred bucks total to upgrade. His recommendation will push $2k including the amp, speakers EQ etc.
Any thoughts on this? I really don't want to spend more than a few hundred bucks total to upgrade. His recommendation will push $2k including the amp, speakers EQ etc.
Honestly if I had the jbl system from the limited in my pro I would have just left it alone. Not worth the money unless it really bothers you.
I personally would leave it all alone or go all out and replace the headunit on down. A crappy signal from the stock headunit is the Achilles heel of any progress you'll make. I don't think a jbl fix is enough to make it worth it. Ymmv
bigbwb
Member
You are probably right
I'm leaning towards just doing the "common" 3.5" dash speaker upgrade using th jbl gx302s as many others have done on this board. The hope is to improve the clarity a bit. Best to stop there unless you go all in which I cannot afford.
You are probably right
I'm leaning towards just doing the "common" 3.5" dash speaker upgrade using th jbl gx302s as many others have done on this board. The hope is to improve the clarity a bit. Best to stop there unless you go all in which I cannot afford.
I think that's a smart place to start. You might find satisfactory results and save a boatload of cash.
pcabinatan
New member
If you have the budget, Hybrid Audio has both a 2 and 3" driver that with a proper baffle could be used in the dash, as well as an 8" with a proper baffle that would work in the doors.
Feed them so good power and a nice proper tune and your will have one the best sounding audio systems.
Feed them so good power and a nice proper tune and your will have one the best sounding audio systems.
wakevictim
New member
Build is nearly completed
Nearly completed my audio install. I just need to find time to build and install the box for my sub. Anybody ever install a sub box behind the middle row with one of the third row seats up? Since all I have are car seats in the back, including one in the third row, I was considering building one to fit on the floor. There is definitely enough room to work with right there. (don't worry, I don't listen to loud music with my kids in the car).
Nearly completed my audio install. I just need to find time to build and install the box for my sub. Anybody ever install a sub box behind the middle row with one of the third row seats up? Since all I have are car seats in the back, including one in the third row, I was considering building one to fit on the floor. There is definitely enough room to work with right there. (don't worry, I don't listen to loud music with my kids in the car).
Attachments
Nice work!
Two questions:
Where did you get the foam ring-things around the 6.5" speaker?
Why did you install the tweeter in that location?
mrichard89
New member
Looks great!!! That tweeter is for a component set in the rear doors instead of using coaxial speakers. I'm assuming her mounted the tweeters up front in the factory dash locations.
Matt
wakevictim
New member
Thank you. The biggest challenge was running a complete rewire through the rear doors and then the front doors.
1: audiointensity.com and cartoys.com has the foam rings for sale. Cartoys.com also sells them on eBay.com so you can avoid paying taxes.
2. Most components have recommended distances you can run the tweeters and woofers close together. Usually within 6 inches together and adjust the tweeter crossover to 0 dbs gains. If you run them farther apart (like in my dash or closer to the listeners ears) you can change the tweeter crossover to -3dbs gains. That's so the highs aren't to high.
wakevictim
New member
I did mount the tweeters in the stock location of the dash. The only reason I didn't mount coaxials in the rear is because of the deal I got on the speakers.
bigbwb
Member
One more question guys. Let's say I decide to try (with a low expectation) and replace my 6x9 front door speakers in my 2017 Limited with JBL setup. being the dash speakers are crossed over to receive the mids/highs while the door 6x9s only get the lows, what would happen if the new aftermarket speakers are coaxial unlike the stock 6x9s? Would this be problematic or not? The stock 6x9s have no tweeter.
The plan currently in the works:
New JBL GX302 3.5" speakers going in dash
Rockford fosgate 8" P3SD2-8 to replace stock sub
All else stays stock (head unit and jbl amp)
Optional (from above question) JBL 6x9 GX962.
The JBL after markets were chosen simply because they are 2.3ohm and high sensitivity just like the OEM stuff.
The plan currently in the works:
New JBL GX302 3.5" speakers going in dash
Rockford fosgate 8" P3SD2-8 to replace stock sub
All else stays stock (head unit and jbl amp)
Optional (from above question) JBL 6x9 GX962.
The JBL after markets were chosen simply because they are 2.3ohm and high sensitivity just like the OEM stuff.
wakevictim
New member
I think you'd be more satisfied with skipping an after market sub and using that money on a better pair of 6x9s. Focus on the quality of sound on your "stage". If you already have a sub, I'd use these speakers and skip the 3.5s and buy a plug and play component set of speakers. These with a little sound deadening, you'll be impressed with the amount of mid bass you'd get.
Focal 6"x9" Toyota Component Speaker Kit - IS 690 TOY
Also, have you looked on the amount of air space required for the after market sub and the stock box?
Goal and budget: Get the crappy stock system out - replace with a good sounding system. I will not change the stock head unit. Looking for a sub that will give a nice bump(not looking to shake buildings) but I want to keep as much space as possible(that said not looking for boxes to fit the wheel wells or anything) a normal box will do. Thinking a ported 8". Budget - Equipment between 500-800ish. This changes drastically with what brand I go with. I got everything in my amazon cart (sound deadener, 5chan amp, 8 in sub, 1 set of components, 2 sets of coaxials) for $683 for the Rockford setup. Its a bit more if I go JL. $800 or so. I really just need to know if I need anything else besides amp, sub, speakers. I was unaware of these LOC or DSP that I may need. Everything was simple before I got this 4runner.
- Fan of the Rockford subs because I can get the protective grill
What I came from:
2002 z71 tahoe
12w7 ported box
750/1 HD
Rockford Fosgate 6.5 Punch Speakers on all 4 doors no amp
Pioneer Head unit
keyser_soze
New member
A few things...
- please amp the front speakers, it will make a huge difference. The rears can just be rear fill run off the factory head unit, you will barely notice them.
- I would go with a quality sealed 10" sub. you will have a bigger selection and it might actually cost less. Plus coming from a 12w7 you will want more.
- You don't need a LOC or a DSP. As long as you choose an amp that has high level inputs you don't need the LOC. The DSP is a variable because they range greatly in price and some are a simple user friendly setup, while others need to be calibrated by a professional. A DSP would definitly make any system sound better, but it comes at a price.
- make sure to budget for sound deadening and an amp/sub install kit.
- if JL is only $120 more I would go with that. That sounds like a really good deal because JL is expensive.
Update - got the JL-C2650 component set installed up front this weekend. No amp yet, but nice. Actually surprised how good the stock speakers sound considering the quality of the components. The JL tweeter weighed almost as much as the whole 6x9 door assembly.
Much cleaner sound, bass sounds in control and not "muddy" and the highs are much crisper. Fabbed a mounting bracket for the door out of 1/2" mdf, and 1/4" AC plywood for the tweeter. Added about 3.5 sf of deadening to each door too.
Only downside is with the tweets so far from the woofers in the doors, when listening to the stereo with the front doors open it sounds like total trash. This should be rare though, and why I'm using C2s in the rears and hatch so I can get good sound outside the truck in "party mode"
Also, if you forget to plug in one of the woofers, it really sounds bad.
Much cleaner sound, bass sounds in control and not "muddy" and the highs are much crisper. Fabbed a mounting bracket for the door out of 1/2" mdf, and 1/4" AC plywood for the tweeter. Added about 3.5 sf of deadening to each door too.
Only downside is with the tweets so far from the woofers in the doors, when listening to the stereo with the front doors open it sounds like total trash. This should be rare though, and why I'm using C2s in the rears and hatch so I can get good sound outside the truck in "party mode"
Also, if you forget to plug in one of the woofers, it really sounds bad.
