Auto to 5 speed swap, need your input!

[Avwizz]

Hey man. Wondering if you had any more detail about these plugs on the j shift case. I woukd like to use it with my 5 speed but nobody mentions about wiring it up. All I can find isthe trans stuff.

When I did my 4WD swap I didn't plug those in. I did however wire an ON-Off-ON switch to the ADD relay. one side on would power the air vacuum to the engaged position and the other on would power the vac to the disengaged section. you want this powered all the time so incase theres a leak you don't accidentally engage the front axel. The switch is also nice to have 2WD LO.

 

[m_gooch]

hey thanks for all the input, I swaped the auto with a standard it was about 10-15 hours of work but it works fine and I kept the ECU, thanks for all the help, and your right haha my O/D light flashes constantly I just covered it with a piece of electrical tape tho, thanks!

 

[danthemanx07]

hey thanks for all the input, I swaped the auto with a standard it was about 10-15 hours of work but it works fine and I kept the ECU, thanks for all the help, and your right haha my O/D light flashes constantly I just covered it with a piece of electrical tape tho, thanks!

Glad it went well for you. Another success story.

 

[kolelt]

I know this is a old thread. But I figured I'd share my info. Incase someone googles this topic and comes across this thread.

I swapped in a manual transmission into my 97. Through a lot of research, you either trick the auto Ecu into thinking it's in neutral and have a CEL code always on. You swap the manual engine harness in along with the manual Ecu. Or you repin your auto harness to accept manual Ecu.

In 97 the auto Ecu has completely different pinouts and completely different pins going to the Ecu. Thus you cannot take a 97 manual Ecu and plug into the auto harness. It won't plug in. I made a repin chart. And bought manual Ecu connectors. And once I made my repin chart. I repinned each connector of the auto harness into the manual Ecu connectors. One by one. Once you do this correctly, your auto harness is basically a manual harness with few wires left aside. Those are your auto transmission wires. And once you plug in your manual Ecu. You will get no cel code. A lot of info on my build thread.

I'm pretty sure 96-99 auto and manual have different connectors between the Ecu.

 

[Buckj]

I took a look at the pedal again today and it doesn't seem as flimsy as I remembered from yesterday so for the time being i'm gonna let it go I guess but before I finish all this up I want to put that plate in there.

Anyway on to the clutch cancel switch wiring.



The 2 top wires go to the clutch depress switch (one wire to pin 3 one to pin 4) and the bottom wire goes to one leg of the clutch release switch (i.e. pin 10). Pins of course referring to my diagram.

Dan this is for you and only applies to you for wiring the clutch cancel switch;

This is all assuming the switch is facing right side up.

The top wire would go to the black wire with the white stripe (pin 3)

The middle wire would go to the solid black wire (pin 4)

The bottom wire would go to the black wire with the yellow stripe (pin 10)

Hope that helps!

Did this wiring setup end up working for you? I just want to make sure before I do it. I have the same three wire switch out of a 98 and I'm swapping it into a 2000.

 

[kolelt]

Did this wiring setup end up working for you? I just want to make sure before I do it. I have the same three wire switch out of a 98 and I'm swapping it into a 2000.

Hey bud. Go to my build thread. I have a ful write up/how to ON clutch cancel button.

 

[St Runner]

If I remember correctly the 99-2000 5speed had a 4 pronged switch and the 96-98 5 speed had a three prong. Since you are putting it in a 2000 auto I am not sure wether that 4th wire is on the auto harness or not . You will have to compare the wiring diagrams for a 2000 auto to 2000 manual and see. My guess its that the three pronged switch will work, by my guesses are not worth crap

 

[danthemanx07]

If I remember correctly the 99-2000 5speed had a 4 pronged switch and the 96-98 5 speed had a three prong. Since you are putting it in a 2000 auto I am not sure wether that 4th wire is on the auto harness or not . You will have to compare the wiring diagrams for a 2000 auto to 2000 manual and see. My guess its that the three pronged switch will work, by my guesses are not worth crap

4 prong started in 1998 - or at least that is how I recall the wiring diagram from the 1998 FSM. I believe I tried to get the three prong one to work but gave up on it.

OP - if you need one switch or the other, PM me. I may have one of each laying around.

 

[derekwilliams345]

Just finished my trans swap including all wiring and Auto ECU ask away i have answers

Just finished replacing a a340f for a r150f in my 97 4runner

wired clutch peddle start, 4wire clutch cancel button, cruise cancel switch on clutch, 3 shift solenoids, illuminated my RR Diff button on dimmer switch

need to figure out which resistor for A/T fluid temp and #2 speed sensor...

 

[danthemanx07]

Just finished replacing a a340f for a r150f in my 97 4runner

wired clutch peddle start, 4wire clutch cancel button, cruise cancel switch on clutch, 3 shift solenoids, illuminated my RR Diff button on dimmer switch

need to figure out which resistor for A/T fluid temp and #2 speed sensor...

You sound much more advanced than me... I didn't think there was an A/T fluid temperature sensor in 1996-2000 models??

 

[TheDurk]

Just finished replacing a a340f for a r150f in my 97 4runner

wired clutch peddle start, 4wire clutch cancel button, cruise cancel switch on clutch, 3 shift solenoids, illuminated my RR Diff button on dimmer switch

need to figure out which resistor for A/T fluid temp and #2 speed sensor...

For the temp sensor, code criteria is:

1. Temp. sensor resistance is less than 79 Ω
2. After the engine has been operating for 15 minutes or more,
the resistance at the temp. sensor is more than 156 kΩ

so I'd say almost anything between 1kΩ and 50kΩ is good.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/at/cip0710.pdf

I have no idea how you spoof the #2 speed sensor:

All conditions below are detected 500 times or more continuously
(2 - trip detection logic).
1. No signal from No. 2 vehicle speed sensor is input to ECM
while 4 pulses of No. 1 vehicle speed sensor signal are
sent.
2. Vehicle speed: 9 km/h (5.6 mph) or more for at least 4 seconds.
3. Park/neutral position switch: OFF (Other than P or N)
4. Transfer position: Other than N position (A340F only)

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/at/cip1700.pdf

I think most 5-speed swappers have kept the manual ECM if they wanted to avoid a code, but hopefully someone out there has done it your way. Maybe if you let the ECM think you were permanently in N? I don't know what effect that has on engine management, if any. Obviously, it won't affect the transmission.

 

[kolelt]

Can anyone help me, on wiring cruise control after 5 speed swap?

 

[derekwilliams345]

Can anyone help me, on wiring cruise control after 5 speed swap?

what year? you need to jump the Drive indicator wire to a 12V ACC wire. If you do it through the clutch up position switch when you push the clutch it will also kill the cruise. My wire was White/Red stripe. It was in the harness that plugged into my auto tranny but i opted to follow it back into the truck before i cut it. Your cruise control box is located beneath your stereo, you will need to take the center stereo bezel out. Grab the Drive wire from the back of the Cruise box there and run it to your clutch up switch. Run the other side of the clutch up switch to a Acc Power wire, think mine was black/orange stripe

 

[derekwilliams345]

You sound much more advanced than me... I didn't think there was an A/T fluid temperature sensor in 1996-2000 models??

sure is. two wire sensor sticking outta the side of the A340F. Not sure why it throws a CEL instead of lighting up the red A/T dash light... I measured resistance and got about 13ohms. After trying a 2k ohm resistor and still getting a code i went with a 10k ohm resistor and haven't thrown the code after driving all day think its solved

 

[derekwilliams345]

For the temp sensor, code criteria is:

I ended up using a 10k ohm resistor with luck. didn't throw the CEL all day. The 2.2k ohm i tried did not work. The reading i got off the sensor at ambient temp was about 13ohms. I am assuming once it gets hot it offers less resistance therefore dropping in ohms? is that correct? and the resistor i used measuring 10ohm is still within the allowable temp range. It seems to be working but id still like to fully understand why

as for the speed sensor, I'm not trying to trick it, id like to fix that one proper. obviously there was something in the A/T measuring speed and is now removed. So there is a backup speed sensor? I pulled my ABS fuse a long time ago so I'm not sure how its reading speed through the ABS wheel but if it is I'm sure its on one of the rear wheels cuz i ripped the ABS wires completely off the front when i put my icon Uppers in.

So heres where I'm at... There is a plugged hole on the back of my transfer case where a VSS should go but even if i do get the sensor where will i plug it into the truck? Can i plug it into the old A/T wiring harness somehow? i know theres a couple extra wires in there, if i needed to i could use em and run straight to the ECU

also, I've been throwing the VSS code for 2 days consistently and then today the speedo actually stopped working completely without a CEL. I turned the truck completely off and back on again and the speedo started working but never threw a code

BTW, those schematics are from a 2002 4Runner

So i guess my question is where should my two speed sensors be? one through ABS and one on the back of the transfer case?

 

[TheDurk]

I ended up using a 10k ohm resistor with luck. didn't throw the CEL all day. The 2.2k ohm i tried did not work. The reading i got off the sensor at ambient temp was about 13ohms. I am assuming once it gets hot it offers less resistance therefore dropping in ohms? is that correct? and the resistor i used measuring 10ohm is still within the allowable temp range. It seems to be working but id still like to fully understand why

as for the speed sensor, I'm not trying to trick it, id like to fix that one proper. obviously there was something in the A/T measuring speed and is now removed. So there is a backup speed sensor? I pulled my ABS fuse a long time ago so I'm not sure how its reading speed through the ABS wheel but if it is I'm sure its on one of the rear wheels cuz i ripped the ABS wires completely off the front when i put my icon Uppers in.

So heres where I'm at... There is a plugged hole on the back of my transfer case where a VSS should go but even if i do get the sensor where will i plug it into the truck? Can i plug it into the old A/T wiring harness somehow? i know theres a couple extra wires in there, if i needed to i could use em and run straight to the ECU

also, I've been throwing the VSS code for 2 days consistently and then today the speedo actually stopped working completely without a CEL. I turned the truck completely off and back on again and the speedo started working but never threw a code

BTW, those schematics are from a 2002 4Runner

So i guess my question is where should my two speed sensors be? one through ABS and one on the back of the transfer case?

A '99 J-shift 5-speed like mine, has only one speed sensor, and it's one of the two rear ABS sensors, or both, I have no way of knowing which. My T/c has no speed sensor. The ECM and the speedo gets the speed signal from the ABS. The ABS processes the signal and sends a clean square wave pulse to the speedo which then passes it on. That is literally all I know.

If you find out more, I'd love to know, as I'm having trouble with mine. I've got a P0500, and no speedo plus an ABS light with codes for both rear sensors. Waiting for warmer weather to attack it.

 

[kolelt]

what year? you need to jump the Drive indicator wire to a 12V ACC wire. If you do it through the clutch up position switch when you push the clutch it will also kill the cruise. My wire was White/Red stripe. It was in the harness that plugged into my auto tranny but i opted to follow it back into the truck before i cut it. Your cruise control box is located beneath your stereo, you will need to take the center stereo bezel out. Grab the Drive wire from the back of the Cruise box there and run it to your clutch up switch. Run the other side of the clutch up switch to a Acc Power wire, think mine was black/orange stripe

Mine is 97. I have the clutch cancel switch wired up. So that works. But no cruise control. And I really miss that !! I have to get under and see what wires are there on the clutch pedal. If I remember correctly there were 2 wires on the clutch pedal for the clutch cancel switch. I'll take some pics once the snow clears up. Hopefully you can help me

 

[derekwilliams345]

A '99 J-shift 5-speed like mine, has only one speed sensor, and it's one of the two rear ABS sensors, or both, I have no way of knowing which. My T/c has no speed sensor. The ECM and the speedo gets the speed signal from the ABS. The ABS processes the signal and sends a clean square wave pulse to the speedo which then passes it on. That is literally all I know.

If you find out more, I'd love to know, as I'm having trouble with mine. I've got a P0500, and no speedo plus an ABS light with codes for both rear sensors. Waiting for warmer weather to attack it.

just read a little bit...

so i think i had a VSS in my tranny and Wheel speed sensors on all four wheels via ABS. I removed my VSS when the tranny got pulled and i cut two of the wheel speed sensors (wss) out when i did away with ABS... your speed via WSS's is compiled from the information from all four sensors

I think my speedometer is working off of the two rear wheel speed sensors currently and anytime it sees a large difference in wheel speeds it trips out the speedo. When i lost my speedo earlier it was right after doing a one wheel wonder peel out on a wet rainy road.

Im gonna test further tomorrow. if I'm right then my problem will be solved by buying a new VSS that will go in my T/C or potentially by replacing the two WSS's up front. Your problem is either your rear wheel speed sensors are dirty or broke or you have a faulty ABS module.

I think its a single 10mm bolt to pull your sensors out. They are magnetic so see if there are metal shavings piled up on em or if they are broken maybe. If they are in good shape then your next step is a new module. I can't remember exactly where the rear sensors unplug from the harness but like i said, ill do more testing tomorrow. Might be worth swapping the front sensors to the rear and see if it gives the same code or transfers the code to the front sensors

 

[danthemanx07]

just read a little bit...

so i think i had a VSS in my tranny and Wheel speed sensors on all four wheels via ABS. I removed my VSS when the tranny got pulled and i cut two of the wheel speed sensors (wss) out when i did away with ABS... your speed via WSS's is compiled from the information from all four sensors

I think my speedometer is working off of the two rear wheel speed sensors currently and anytime it sees a large difference in wheel speeds it trips out the speedo. When i lost my speedo earlier it was right after doing a one wheel wonder peel out on a wet rainy road.

Im gonna test further tomorrow. if I'm right then my problem will be solved by buying a new VSS that will go in my T/C or potentially by replacing the two WSS's up front. Your problem is either your rear wheel speed sensors are dirty or broke or you have a faulty ABS module.

I think its a single 10mm bolt to pull your sensors out. They are magnetic so see if there are metal shavings piled up on em or if they are broken maybe. If they are in good shape then your next step is a new module. I can't remember exactly where the rear sensors unplug from the harness but like i said, ill do more testing tomorrow. Might be worth swapping the front sensors to the rear and see if it gives the same code or transfers the code to the front sensors

Man - I had none of these issues when I did my swap. Seriously the only thing that complicated mine was finding the right (4-wire) clutch cancel switch. Wish I could help you out here, but I just did not have any of these issues.

 

[kolelt]

I can assure that the rear ABS has nothing to do with speedometer. I have my ABS cutout from the rear axle. And my speedo working properly.

I have a feeling that the speedo is linked with the front. I remember my wheel bearing being dirty, and the abs ring having rust. I cleaned up it. And sealed the hub back up with silicone over the seal. And it's better now. Because my speedometer used to go out randomly and I'd have to shut the car of to reset it.