I just bought a '16 Limited w/ ARB (needed RB bc I have two young kids), and due to the fear of them eventually malfunctioning, I decided to pull the fuse while the running boards were out and just keep them out. Since I'm not exactly mechanically-inclined... does anyone know if this would be a bad idea in the long run when I decide to plug the fuse back in and use the ARB as originally intended?
Automatic Running Boards Issue
- Thread starter KGWVU
- Start date
I just bought a '16 Limited w/ ARB (needed RB bc I have two young kids), and due to the fear of them eventually malfunctioning, I decided to pull the fuse while the running boards were out and just keep them out. Since I'm not exactly mechanically-inclined... does anyone know if this would be a bad idea in the long run when I decide to plug the fuse back in and use the ARB as originally intended?
https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum&txt=TSB 0278-17
Some 2012 – 2017 model year 4Runner vehicles may exhibit a condition in which one or both
automatic running board(s) will not deploy or stow. The condition may be intermittent. Follow the
Repair Procedure in this bulletin to address this condition.
Some 2012 – 2017 model year 4Runner vehicles may exhibit a condition in which one or both
automatic running board(s) will not deploy or stow. The condition may be intermittent. Follow the
Repair Procedure in this bulletin to address this condition.
This thread inspired me to get my updated running board ECU replacement installed over the weekend. Up until now I had the 30amp fuse under the hood pulled and the running board were fully extended over the winter.
Getting to the module requires removing drivers door sill, kick panel, underdash trim and unbolting the drivers side underdash airbag module (not the one on the wheel) and letting it hang while doing the work. The clip to unplug it looks tricky and I didn't want to damage it.
Next was disconnecting 6 plugs on the body ECU that point directly at you once removing the underdash. This allowed me to unbolt and move the body ECU out of the way. The bottom plugs facing up I just left in place. Two of the plugs on the left had levers to unplug them, starting from the top. When reinserting them make sure the lever is fully seated down, the lever lock pulls the plug in.
The ARB ECU was then bolted to the side wall, above drivers kick with two 10mm bolts, on on top and the other on the bottom.
Once installed, the initialization procedure wants you to flip the switch on/off times and leave on with the 6th all within 3 seconds. You have to flip it pretty fast in that time frame, it took me a few times to get it. If you do not initialize the module the running boards wont do a thing and make it look like something is wrong with it.
After that the passenger side wasn't staying out. I could hear it creaking a little, sprayed it down with some liquid silicone and it still wouldn't extend all the way. The fix ended up being just drive it above 10mph.
After a few days it seems to all be working fine. We shall see next winter though.
Sorry for no pictures.
Getting to the module requires removing drivers door sill, kick panel, underdash trim and unbolting the drivers side underdash airbag module (not the one on the wheel) and letting it hang while doing the work. The clip to unplug it looks tricky and I didn't want to damage it.
Next was disconnecting 6 plugs on the body ECU that point directly at you once removing the underdash. This allowed me to unbolt and move the body ECU out of the way. The bottom plugs facing up I just left in place. Two of the plugs on the left had levers to unplug them, starting from the top. When reinserting them make sure the lever is fully seated down, the lever lock pulls the plug in.
The ARB ECU was then bolted to the side wall, above drivers kick with two 10mm bolts, on on top and the other on the bottom.
Once installed, the initialization procedure wants you to flip the switch on/off times and leave on with the 6th all within 3 seconds. You have to flip it pretty fast in that time frame, it took me a few times to get it. If you do not initialize the module the running boards wont do a thing and make it look like something is wrong with it.
After that the passenger side wasn't staying out. I could hear it creaking a little, sprayed it down with some liquid silicone and it still wouldn't extend all the way. The fix ended up being just drive it above 10mph.
After a few days it seems to all be working fine. We shall see next winter though.
Sorry for no pictures.
Last edited:
Mark4runnar
Member
4runner limited auto running board "repair"
I found this video really helpful......yes its a Ford 150, but ABR makes the running boards for most of the market ---including Toyota (4runner Limited)
The only difference I noticed is that the 4runner auto running board "motor" is up front - drives the front hinge / not the back hinge he shows on the F150
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaAvrIoViK0
I used BLaster --- you can get it at NAPA. I used 2 cans per side---- Boston winters destroy metal.
Soaked the hinges as shown in video - let it sit and then worked it in as the video shows. Did it several times to get them working 100%
Sloppy work- but the dealer wanted $2000 to replace them, and I do not use them much - so there was no way I was going that route.
Second video -- uses compressed air to help clean the hinges
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2EIXZpiLq0
I found this video really helpful......yes its a Ford 150, but ABR makes the running boards for most of the market ---including Toyota (4runner Limited)
The only difference I noticed is that the 4runner auto running board "motor" is up front - drives the front hinge / not the back hinge he shows on the F150
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaAvrIoViK0
I used BLaster --- you can get it at NAPA. I used 2 cans per side---- Boston winters destroy metal.
Soaked the hinges as shown in video - let it sit and then worked it in as the video shows. Did it several times to get them working 100%
Sloppy work- but the dealer wanted $2000 to replace them, and I do not use them much - so there was no way I was going that route.
Second video -- uses compressed air to help clean the hinges
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2EIXZpiLq0
Attachments
el_guapo185
New member
Replacing to a newer ECU works!
Thank you for posting the steps! I drive a 2016 Toyota 4runner Limited with about 69k miles. It has power running boards and a couple of months ago the one on the passenger side stopped working. It would rarely deployed so I thought it was a wiring issue but after inspecting I realized there was nothing wrong there. I bought an ECU with a newer Software version, mine was 89720-35010 and the one I bought is 89720-35011. I bought it for $55 plus tax and shipping for a total of $72. I guess I was lucky since I just noticed the seller increased the price to $85:
OEM Power Running Board Side Step Control Module Toyota 4 Runner | eBay
You described the steps almost perfectly and I felt I had to contribute my findings. First of all, removing the underdash trim is tricky, you have to remove the A/C controller panel first (where the A/C knobs are). The other important thing to note is that the initialization process you described works
if you have at least a door opened on each side. At first I had both doors on the passenger side closed and I was freaking out that the initialization process wasn't working, but then I opened one of the doors on the passenger side and the initialization worked on the first try.
Thank you for posting the steps! I drive a 2016 Toyota 4runner Limited with about 69k miles. It has power running boards and a couple of months ago the one on the passenger side stopped working. It would rarely deployed so I thought it was a wiring issue but after inspecting I realized there was nothing wrong there. I bought an ECU with a newer Software version, mine was 89720-35010 and the one I bought is 89720-35011. I bought it for $55 plus tax and shipping for a total of $72. I guess I was lucky since I just noticed the seller increased the price to $85:
OEM Power Running Board Side Step Control Module Toyota 4 Runner | eBay
You described the steps almost perfectly and I felt I had to contribute my findings. First of all, removing the underdash trim is tricky, you have to remove the A/C controller panel first (where the A/C knobs are). The other important thing to note is that the initialization process you described works
if you have at least a door opened on each side. At first I had both doors on the passenger side closed and I was freaking out that the initialization process wasn't working, but then I opened one of the doors on the passenger side and the initialization worked on the first try.
Attachments
Wanted to chime in. Followed the steps above, bought the exact same part, and we have ARB again!!! I could hear the motors still functioning, and move for just a moment, but neither of the boards have came out for years now. 2014 Limited. :biggrin1: thank you!!!!
Pics attached of the location of that ridiculous nut! You can fit a wrench onto it from above (highlighted) once you take the ECU block out of the way.
Pics attached of the location of that ridiculous nut! You can fit a wrench onto it from above (highlighted) once you take the ECU block out of the way.
Attachments
Anyone with 2018+ 4Runners with ARBs have issues with their running boards? Do 2018+ 4R have updated components/ECU/Controller?
light_switch
New member
Jumping in to say thanks to everyone who posted on this thread! New ARB ECU is working great to fix my non-functioning driver side (2014 Limited). My only piece of advice is to wear gloves. I shredded my hand with all of the sharp metal edges.
dclark2171
Member
My 13 running boards are a mess and I've just turned them off. My only issue about leaving them out and pulling the fuse, is I can't get both out at the same time fully extended. One side, fully extended, other partially extended or the other way around. 
///AIRDAM
New member
My 13 running boards are a mess and I've just turned them off. My only issue about leaving them out and pulling the fuse, is I can't get both out at the same time fully extended. One side, fully extended, other partially extended or the other way around.
We always ALWAYS fold ours out every time we wash our vehicle, even at a car wash, open the door, boards fold down, close the door and put your foot on the board to give resistance. This stops the board from retracting, so you can pressure wash the board and hinges off. Then after they are dry about once or twice a year spray the hinges down with some refined soybean oil. This gets in, and stops rust, and coats like crazy and protects stuff from getting into the stainless pins.
You likely havent washed or lubed the hinges or pins and they are starting to seize up. I would recommend trying to get them down and hold your foot on them and close the door so they cant fold up and spray the crap out of the hinges and pins with lube. WD-40 or PB Blaster or Silicone spray or whatever you can come up with. If there is too much resistance the board wont fold up, or fold down, so just a little resistance on the hinge will definitely cause your problems.
T4R_4_LIFE
Junior Member
I know this post is old but just wanted to chime in as I just replaced my PRB controller with newer updated one as well and driver side still not working. I bought a used OEM motor off eBay for way too much money I plugged it into the wiring harness and the motor works however, it doesn’t seem to have much power. I don’t know if these boards require much to push out, but I know it doesn’t take much force for them to not deploy either. Then I found out you can buy a brand new motor for a Ford off Amazon for about $400 cheaper so I think I am going to return the used one I bought off of eBay and buy the new motor off Amazon.
Question I have is if anyone has spliced the connector from the 4Runner ARB motor to the wiring from the Ford ARB motor?
Question I have is if anyone has spliced the connector from the 4Runner ARB motor to the wiring from the Ford ARB motor?
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