auxiliary fuse block

7

7echo

Member
I am sorting out the location for my aux fuse block and have a few questions-

If I install as in the image can I run a ground cable to the screw in the body just above the block or do I need to return to the battery, or what?

I see a lot of images where they are attached on top of the fuse box cover. Seems like that makes it hard to access the fuses?

BTW, the ring terminals are there now just to make sure I have clearance.

Comments/opinions are appreciated.
 

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7echo said:
I am sorting out the location for my aux fuse block and have a few questions-

If I install as in the image can I run a ground cable to the screw in the body just above the block or do I need to return to the battery, or what?

I see a lot of images where they are attached on top of the fuse box cover. Seems like that makes it hard to access the fuses?

BTW, the ring terminals are there now just to make sure I have clearance.

Comments/opinions are appreciated.
Click to expand...

Both will work. The battery is absolute ground, but the connections are exposed to corrosive gases from the battery. If your body is properly grounded, there is no reason you couldn't use that bolt, as long as you verify the installation so there is nothing insulating your ring terminal from ground. I'm assuming you want the ground buss on the fuse block to ground some relays? The box itself does not require a ground.

:pizza:
 
make sure to put a big ole fuse or breaker between the battery and aux. box. I run my ignition through the aux box, so when I trip the breaker it acts as a quick kill switch .... FWIW I ran my aux. fuse ground back to the battery .
 
IBallEngineer said:
Both will work. The battery is absolute ground, but the connections are exposed to corrosive gases from the battery. If your body is properly grounded, there is no reason you couldn't use that bolt, as long as you verify the installation so there is nothing insulating your ring terminal from ground. I'm assuming you want the ground buss on the fuse block to ground some relays? The box itself does not require a ground.

:pizza:
Click to expand...
Yes sir, going to have some relays for stuff. First thing will be an extra set of reverse lights.

v_man- yes, I have a 100 amp marine breaker to install between the battery and fuse block.

4-Ripcord-
Is that fuse block over the top of the evap box?
Thanks for the drawing and pics!
 
Thanks guys, this is just what I was looking for. Going to hook up a aux. light bar and knew I needed something like one of these bars. Now to go order one.
 
Is it necessary to run a breaker if you are just using your block for accessories?

(I bought a 6-circuit block)

If its required do you guys have a part number you recommend?

Thanks!
 
7echo said:
I am sorting out the location for my aux fuse block and have a few questions-

If I install as in the image can I run a ground cable to the screw in the body just above the block or do I need to return to the battery, or what?

I see a lot of images where they are attached on top of the fuse box cover. Seems like that makes it hard to access the fuses?

BTW, the ring terminals are there now just to make sure I have clearance.

Comments/opinions are appreciated.
Click to expand...

I had your same problem. Trying figure out where to mount the blooming thing. I ended up with under the rear seat for the large Blue Sea 12 box.




To answer your questions, Yes you should be fine using that body mount bolt.

I didn't want to mount my one the OEM fuse box as well and our pre99's don't have much space up there for a large box. Everyone posting mounted Acc boxes are on the facelifted trucks with the Evap canisters under the rear end of the truck.

The spot you have is fine, but will be hard to run any wire through the boot under where its mounted in the future unless its easily removable.

It will definitely be cheaper to run the wire to that location versus under the rear seat.
 
robb1887 said:
The spot you have is fine, but will be hard to run any wire through the boot under where its mounted in the future unless its easily removable.

It will definitely be cheaper to run the wire to that location versus under the rear seat.
Click to expand...

That's my thought too, seems like I'm running more and more wires through the firewall nowadays. Easy access is it for me. My relay/circuit breakers are in the prettiest of locations... but the wiring is clean and out of the way so it's not an eyesore. Luckily there's lots of un-used bolt holes along the fender.
 
gamefreakgc said:
That's my thought too, seems like I'm running more and more wires through the firewall nowadays. Easy access is it for me. My relay/circuit breakers are in the prettiest of locations... but the wiring is clean and out of the way so it's not an eyesore. Luckily there's lots of un-used bolt holes along the fender.
Click to expand...

I mounted my surface mount breakers directly to the radiator fan shroud with the big 3 wiring and a 4ga run across the core support up the passenger side through the firewall and under the rear seat. I figure I'd be running more accessories in the truck than outside, but both of my grommets are easily accessible for running cables through. I just make sure to RTV them back up when the cable is through to keep from leaking. I'll have photos in my build thread tonight, apparently I didn't host them when I took them.
 
Chim said:
Is it necessary to run a breaker if you are just using your block for accessories?

(I bought a 6-circuit block)

If its required do you guys have a part number you recommend?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I got one because most of the comments about this work suggest it for safety. Mine is 100 amp lever style, like this...

McMaster-Carr
 
7echo said:
I got one because most of the comments about this work suggest it for safety. Mine is 100 amp lever style, like this...

McMaster-Carr
Click to expand...

Correct, the further your acc. fuse block is from your battery (i.e. the longer the power lead) the safer it is to have the breaker in the run. The closer to the battery the better.

In the event the wire chafes for whatever reason without a breaker and a long lead of big gauge wire you essentially turn it into an arc welder and can do a bunch of damage and cause fires. I'll take the $30-40 insurance to pop the breaker versus burning the 4Runner down.
 
[MENTION=70319]robb1887[/MENTION]-
"I didn't want to mount my one the OEM fuse box as well and our pre99's don't have much space up there for a large box. Everyone posting mounted Acc boxes are on the facelifted trucks with the Evap canisters under the rear end of the truck.

The spot you have is fine, but will be hard to run any wire through the boot under where its mounted in the future unless its easily removable.

It will definitely be cheaper to run the wire to that location versus under the rear seat."

I checked out the images in your build thread, thanks for posting those.

I have been thinking to put the block in the engine bay, I was under the impression, perhaps wrongly, that it was better there than in the cabin.

The length of wire/cost is not a problem as I have a collection of weld lead wires in various gauge. Did you put a grommet in where you came into the cabin? How long have you had the breakers mounted to the fan shroud? Any issues from vibration?
 
7echo said:
I checked out the images in your build thread, thanks for posting those.

I have been thinking to put the block in the engine bay, I was under the impression, perhaps wrongly, that it was better there than in the cabin.

The length of wire/cost is not a problem as I have a collection of weld lead wires in various gauge. Did you put a grommet in where you came into the cabin? How long have you had the breakers mounted to the fan shroud? Any issues from vibration?
Click to expand...

The fuse block can go wherever you think is best. I figured that a central location would be best for running front/rear lights and whatever cabin accessories I like. I also preferred I the cabin since its out of the weather.

I ran the 4ga wire in through the existing OEM 3"(ish) lower boot on the passenger side and sealed with some RTV black sealant. Haven't noticed any leaks yet, but waiting for a good rain to check to make sure its sealed back up.

Breakers have been there for a week or so. No issues as of yet, but I cannot see any more of a vibration issue as the shroud is mounted to the body just like any other mounting location would be
 
Jackson Rally-

Nice looking install there. Did you do the fab work?

I wish I had that much free space to do the install.
 
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