Axel housing question

[toyota00]

So what seems to be a common problem with people that live in salt states, my axle hosing rusted out and i blew my third member.

I was wondering if a open 4.10 would fit in an elocker housing?

I do not have an elocker 4runner but one day i might want to make it one, was just wondering if that would work for the time being until i decide to swap an elocker in my 4runner.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, it is way more common than it should be. I went through the exact same thing. Check out the link in my sig, I link to a bunch of different threads on this issue with different options for fixing it.

As far as swapping in an e-locker and 4.10's, the housing is different between locker and non-locked. You can modify a non-locked housing to fit the locker, but you can't go the other way (search e-locker retro-fit, lots of info here on that). So to answer your question, no, an open 4.10 will not fit into an e-locker housing.

For the 4.10's, if you are changing your gear ratio, then you have to update your front diff to match. Probably not worth it. You should try to find a diff with the right gear ratio. In that case, don't worry about putting a locker in now, just replace yours now, and worry about the locker when the time comes that you actually want to do that project.

 

[toyota00]

Thanks for the quick reply. My 4runner is stick so it came stock with 4.10's my problem now is just finding a housing. There is one in a boneyard by me, but they want 425. I think thats a little high. I guess ill just keep looking for a housing.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Thanks for the quick reply. My 4runner is stick so it came stock with 4.10's my problem now is just finding a housing. There is one in a boneyard by me, but they want 425. I think thats a little high. I guess ill just keep looking for a housing.

Put your location in your profile so we can see where you are. If you are in the north east or minn/wis area, you probably aren't going to find a non-rusty one locally. I had one shipped up from florida, but that can get expensive too. For just the housing, not the diff and axles, that is an outrageous price. Including diff, it is still high, but probably not terrible (assuming reasonable miles on the diff). Including axles, that is a decent price.

Your other option, which I link to in my build thread, is to patch the rust holes. It is really just the diff cover that is thin, so you can weld on a whole new piece to replace it, or you can just patch the holes by either welding them, or using JB weld for a temporary fix. Of course you still have to find a diff.

Post some pictures of your housing and the holes in it.

BTW, you should do the spin test to double check your ratio. You are probably right that it's 4.10, but you are going to drop some money on this, so be 100% sure of your ratio beforehand. If you haven't counted the teeth or done the spin test, then you aren't 100% sure. Search here for the procedure, it's been covered many times.

 

[cordrayj1]

If u are a 5speed w the 5vz im almost 100% you have the 4.10s. Its easy to pull the third. Why not do that and count physical teeth