AZ07Runner build

AZ07Runner

Member
After about two months of reading, Googling, and quite a few phone calls, the lift FINALLY came to be.

I needed new tires since the original Michelin A/Ss were still on (almost 60k on truck)...and STILL have probably another 7500+ of life left. These were wrapped around Limited 18s. I figured I might as well do everything at the same time and that ended up being a wise decision due to finding a rear shock leaking. I chose the Cooper AT3 due to the very high positive reviews it received and I can see why. Its a very quiet tire. It does hum a little bit at medium speeds, but it seems like wind noise at higher speeds cancels it out. I also used 265/70/17 so I'm getting an extra inch in diameter...no rubbing at all. As for not using the 18s, I didn't want to use spacers and wanted a bit more sidewall. I found a set of '12 Trail 17" wheels that had ~630 miles on them for $300 that would be the main set. I found the same wheel at a recycler in almost as good condition for $85. From what I've read, these give an offset of 15mm compared to the 18s.

As for the lift, I was going for 2.5 front/1.5 rear. Shocks are Bilstein 5100s X 4. Fronts set at 0 with OME 885s with two 1/4" spacers on driver's side and one on the passenger's since the 885s are good for 2" (this was recommended by Wheelers). Rear springs are Sway-A-Way and lift 1.5".

The ride is GREAT. No more wallowing or bouncing. The previous truck (see sig) had Bilsteins and the ride was a little on the harsh side at low speeds. Not as issue on this truck! I've taken a couple speed tables in my neighborhood that say 20mph which I've taken at 30mph. Butter!

A few pics:

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I did a couple things a couple months apart so I'll show them in just one post.

First, I upgraded the sway bar end links to the ones made by [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] . Everything went together fine, but I had to make a slit in the boots to stop the bolt heads from moving. I couldn't come up with any other way than this without actually tearing them up or just taking them off all together.
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Second, I had to replace the inner fender splash guards since there was only one left and that one was two shakes away from getting torn off. I found place online that sells roofing rubber in 1' X 10' sections. I downloaded the pdf for duplicating the factory ones and transferred them over. I wanted a little extra material in certain areas so I cut them out like you see in the next pic.
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I had a hell of a time getting the old fasteners out so I bought the tool you see in the next pic. Popped the rest off in less time it took to take off the first by hand! I think it was ~$5 on Amazon and will get used next time! Also got a hole puncher.
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I got the fasteners from Ace Hardware: part # 4818-Q @ $.75 per. I had to go to three different stores as each one didn't have enough. I started putting the guards on and found out that these fasteners are really snug. I also found out the hard way that they go in better if they have been lying in the sun and have been warmed up. The side that was shaded, I ended up snapping several of them. Back to Ace for more. I filled a cup with HOT water, left them in it for a few minutes and was able to push them in more easily, even the ones that had been in the sun.
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The front was making some noises and found out the ball joints were the issue. I don't know if it was due to the lift, but I saw the joint area under the UCA had grease all around it...boot failure. I've read that Tacoma owners have been really happy with their JBAs, Marlin from JBA answered all emails very quickly and the product looked very sturdy and well made. The easy of replacing ball joint parts and the interchangeability in a pinch with a very common GM/Chevy ball joint also swayed me. Its hard to tell whether I feel a difference due to taking off the sway bar to see if the noise was coming from the end links. Drove around without it for a couple weeks before the UCAs install so I sort of got used to that feeling. I'm glad it is back on since I didn't like the wallowing/tippy feeling on the front.
Here's a pic:
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Well, I still have the noise. Driving me nuts. It only happens on the compression of the suspension, like off the curb of a driveway or the downside of a speed table. Made a post about it: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/242729-suspension-noise-only-when-going-straight.html

Onto the main reason for the post:

I Installed RCI's skid package a couple days ago and thought I'd share. The old stock plates were bent up by the previous owner and also made the plastic transfer flap hang down at an odd angle.
The hardest part was getting the transfer case was getting the crossmember installed. Be prepared to massage the fuel tank protector with a hammer to get it to fit (see pic 1). A quick call to RCI was answered and I was told to do this. A jack comes in handy to lift and balance the member.
One of the edges of the plate had to be cut off since it was hitting an exhaust hanger (see pic 2) and that was not allowing the bolts to be tightened. Doing so would have forced the exhaust pipe upwards. I assume this is due to Toyota installers at the factory making the welds and something like exhaust hanger welds are not going to have the same tolerances like an engine. A cutting wheel and file took care of this, though it still touches...will take care of this the next time it comes off. Mark and measure once so you don't start grinding off the wrong corner like I did! Bolting and unbolting items like this and crawling under/out from under the truck many times is a pain and I'm not the young fit Gumby I sort of used to be!:D I gotta get one of those impact drivers!!
Everything else pretty much went into place once I finished with the transfer case plate. Again, the jack with a piece of wood under the front and trans plates made it easier for the bolts to get started. Two people would make this easier, but it is possible by yourself.

Overall, I do like the new skids. They are really nice and since I'm not a hardcore off-roader, the aluminum will give me all the under carriage protection I need. I may even be able to remove the oil filter without removing the front skid. A Form-a-Funnel might do the trick...we'll see.

Some pics:

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Old:
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New:
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