Back End Replacement

[Nelsonmd]

So long story short, I bought a 2000 SR5 used, and after getting it home, I found that the differential housing has rusted through and diff fluid is leaking out. Bought it in Vermont, so it is just an as-is sale, and no recourse with the dealer. I guess my bad for not finding this problem during the test drive.

After reading a bunch of threads here, I have concluded I have 2 options:
1. Use some sort of epoxy or JB weld to close the hole, refilll with new gear oil, and keep going. Found this idea from a thread here.
2. Replace the back end from a junkyard.

1 is way easier and cheaper, but, I figure if it rusted through in one place, it will do it in another, even if I paint it, so 2 is a better solution, though much more labor intensive. Plus, the filler and drain plugs are so rusted on there that I don't know if I can get them off. I scraped them with a heavy wire brush, but it still just looks like it's welded on.

I am planning on replacing the back end with one from a salvage yard. I am going to look tomorrow morning at a yard near my house (thought I won't be buying one til later this week or next week). The guy said the whole back end will cost $350.

So my questions for the community:
1. Do you think replacing the back end is the right course, or am I missing a better one?
2. Does $350 sound fair for a rear axle?
3. What other question should I be asking you guys? i.e. what is your advice in general?

I am totally new to toyotas, but I am a mechanical engineer and pretty capable with my hands, and I have at least one friend that is the same to help me.

I would love to hear from someone who has done this. A little reassurance, or some hot tips would be much appreciated.

Here's the hole:


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[97-4xFunner]

I can't give much direction on this, but I would think it best to replace the rear end. You may want to see if you can find a rear axle with a diff lock. It would make for a nice little upgrade. If you can get an entire rear axle, I mean including housing, internal third member parts, and axles, I would think that $350 isn't too far off the mark. Good luck. I will be watching for updates, as I am thinking of doing the same. Can't seem to get my rear axle seal to quit leaking. I am ready to s**tcan the whole axle.

 

[Spencer]

Id say replace it

350 IS TOO MUCH.

Check if there is a PAP near you.

$163.38 for entire rear axle. If you just wanted the housing it would be MUCH less.

pullapart.com

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, So I stopped by the salvage yard this morning. There are 2 potentials, both with a bit of rust, but way less than what I have now.

The cost is $500, not $350. It's $350 for just the center 3rd. The only other salvage yard with one in stock also sells it for $500. I guess that is my only choice. Spencer, if I can get it for $163 somewhere, tell me, because at that price it would be worth it to ship it here. I will get a 3 month warranty at the salvage yard.

So it looks like $500 is my price, unless someone has another idea.

I would like to add a few questions as well:
What seals, crush washers, etc will I need to replace when I do this?
Are there any other small parts I should replace when I do it?
Where can I get replacement bolts, nuts, etc?

Thanks.

No Pull a part in New England, closest one is Cleveland.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, so additional confusion here. I have read multiple threads here and articles linked from here about gear ratios, and I have read differing things.

My A/TM is A04A/A340F. This suggests it should be 4.56 ratio according to this: Gearratiosanddiffs

But my Model Number (VZN185L-GKPGKA) Suggests 3.909, 4.1, or 4.3 according to this: 1997-2002_Toyota_Drive_Axles.htm

I guess I will have to jack a tire up tonight and spin it to see what I really have.

The parts I found at the salvage yards are 4.56.

 

[SkidPalace]

Nelson, did you try Rt 128 Used Auto Parts in Waltham?
I can practically see it from my house, but I have never been there.

I will also offer to help you with the swap if you find a compatible axle/housing.

FWIW, my axle code is the same as yours and the ratio matches perfectly with the second link you provided. It is an e-locker, and I understand the only elocker ratio is 4.30.

 

[rjaudi]

V6 auto is 4.10 unlocked and 4.30 locked

 

[Nelsonmd]

Thanks Skid. yeah, I was there this morning. They have 2, but I had told them 4.56 ratio, so maybe that is incorrect. Not sure if they have a 4.30.

I guess I will have to call around again. I might take you up on that help. Have you done anything like this before?

I hate not being able to drive my new car, but I probably won't be able to do this for another couple weeks or so.

Sorry to ask so many questions, but here are a couple more:
What should I do as far as painting/protecting before I put the new gear in. I plan on stripping all the rust, but what is the most durable paint/primer/finish out there for the axle, diff, etc?

 

[brian2sun]

V6 auto is 4.10 unlocked and 4.30 locked

With few exceptions, all the locked 3rd gens are 4.30, but the unlocked ones can vary. There are V6 autos out there with 3.90s, 4.10s, and 4.56s. You CANNOT trust these online gear charts, they're marginally accurate at best. 3 different sites told me I had 3 different gear ratios. Don't take the chance, just jack up one of the rear tires and have a buddy spin it around exactly 20 times while you count the driveshaft revos. 41 revos = 4.10s, 43 revos = 4.30s, 45.6 revos = 4.56s, 39 revos = 3.90s, etc... Mark the driveshaft with some white-out to make it easier to count.

 

[SkidPalace]

Thanks Skid. yeah, I was there this morning. They have 2, but I had told them 4.56 ratio, so maybe that is incorrect. Not sure if they have a 4.30.

I guess I will have to call around again. I might take you up on that help. Have you done anything like this before?

I hate not being able to drive my new car, but I probably won't be able to do this for another couple weeks or so.

Sorry to ask so many questions, but here are a couple more:
What should I do as far as painting/protecting before I put the new gear in. I plan on stripping all the rust, but what is the most durable paint/primer/finish out there for the axle, diff, etc?

So do you have the locked rear end or not? Is there a button on the dash?
I have not swapped a rear end in my life, but I am up to the challenge ( I am a Mech Engineer by education as well). I did trash and replace the spider gears in a Jeep rear end back in the day. I have a fairly decent assortment of tools, but no hardcore mechanic stuff.
I am particularly interested if you have a 4.30 locker, because I have a 3rd member that probably has some bad carrier bearings. If you can find a fresh complete 4.30, I'd be interested in splitting the cost with you and having a little swap party over a couple of cold ones. You can PM me if you want to discuss further.
As far as a temp fix, I have seen members on here that have JB Weld patches on their pumpkins and they seem to hold.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I will check my ratio when I get home tonight and let you know for certain if it is a 4.30. And yes, I do have a the e-lock button. I am amenable to cost sharing.

Hopefully tomorrow I will update with whether I found a new axle assembly. I think I might do a jb weld plug for the time being just so I can drive it around a little. I really need to enjoy it for a little bit.

We'll arrange the party once I get the parts.

 

[Spencer]

Spencer, if I can get it for $163 somewhere, tell me, because at that price it would be worth it to ship it here. I will get a 3 month warranty at the salvage yard.

Man, Id hate to see you spend that much money on a stupid axle.

Down here in louisiana theres no such thing as rust. I can get you one, if you MUST.

But Id just get a new housing. Which would be cheaper and easier to ship.

You do realize how easy it is to pull the axles out of the houseing right? Its just 8 bolts. And get you some new axle gaskets while your at it.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, Well I managed to get the fill plug and the drain plug out (the fill plug is now a 7/8, not a 24mm, and the drain plug is now a 15/16, both due to rust). I drained the old fluid (there wasn't much in there), and fortunately there weren't many metal flakes on the magnet, there were a few real fine ones, but not too much. I only had 1 quart of gear oil, which is more than came out, so I will have to get more tomorrow. Not a permanent solution, but at least I can drive it a bit now.

I measured my ratio, and it is 4.30.

Spencer, I definitely have to have a new housing, and it just seems easier to replace the whole axle assembly. It would reduce the rust more to replace the whole thing, though in a junkyard, the brake plates might be damaged from resting on the ground, so I might not be able to replace those anyway. Man, lucky you for not having rust problems. The next 4runner I get I will fly down there to buy one. Can I sleep on your couch while I do test drives?

I checked out the pullapart website and they only have 4 gen 3's in all their locations (Mobile, Baton Rouge, Augusta, and Louisville), and I don't know what the ratios are for those. These axles wouldn't happen to be interchangeable with gen 2's, would they? Do you think with shipping it would actually be worth it?

I will call around tomorrow to find the right axle. Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

[denvertoyota]

I would grind it down, and do a JB weld for now. If it leaks later, you can always replace it than. Once you grind, jb weld, than use a rubberized undercoating on it, and or VHT's paint, for rollbars, and chassis. You may want to use a rust stop primer first. That pin hole would not make me want a whole new housing. By the way, when I sell them used I get about $250-276 on eBay for 4.30.

 

[Nelsonmd]

You don't happen to have one do you?

Yeah, the JB weld on the hole appears to be holding, though there is some leak near the bottom somewhere. I am not sure if it is a pinhole, or if it is just leaking out the drain plug (I didn't replace the crush washer because I didn't have one) What size crush washer is the drain and the fill?

I think I will still be shopping around for a new axle, since I think I will need to replace it eventually, but JB weld has bought me some time to find a good one and a good deal. Plus I will have time to prep the new axle, strip, paint, etc.

Is that 275 shipped?

 

[notrayray]

I would find a bare axle housing and just swap everything over....

 

[JohnsD90]

With few exceptions, all the locked 3rd gens are 4.30, but the unlocked ones can vary. There are V6 autos out there with 3.90s, 4.10s, and 4.56s. You CANNOT trust these online gear charts, they're marginally accurate at best. 3 different sites told me I had 3 different gear ratios. Don't take the chance, just jack up one of the rear tires and have a buddy spin it around exactly 20 times while you count the driveshaft revos. 41 revos = 4.10s, 43 revos = 4.30s, 45.6 revos = 4.56s, 39 revos = 3.90s, etc... Mark the driveshaft with some white-out to make it easier to count.

No Auto came stock with 4.56, that was only for a 4cl 5 speed 4x4.

 

[Spencer]

Spencer, I definitely have to have a new housing, and it just seems easier to replace the whole axle assembly. It would reduce the rust more to replace the whole thing, though in a junkyard, the brake plates might be damaged from resting on the ground, so I might not be able to replace those anyway. Man, lucky you for not having rust problems. The next 4runner I get I will fly down there to buy one. Can I sleep on your couch while I do test drives?

I checked out the pullapart website and they only have 4 gen 3's in all their locations (Mobile, Baton Rouge, Augusta, and Louisville), and I don't know what the ratios are for those. These axles wouldn't happen to be interchangeable with gen 2's, would they? Do you think with shipping it would actually be worth it?

Sorry for not getting back to you, sure you can sleep on my couch. Lol I always fly and buy but I dont even bother the test drive, Im there its coming with me.

I wouldn't trust the PAP website, usually their inventory is not that great except for new orleans.

Im closest to new orleans baton rouge and Lafayette. Lmk if you want me to find one and check the ratio.

 

[denvertoyota]

You don't happen to have one do you?

Yeah, the JB weld on the hole appears to be holding, though there is some leak near the bottom somewhere. I am not sure if it is a pinhole, or if it is just leaking out the drain plug (I didn't replace the crush washer because I didn't have one) What size crush washer is the drain and the fill?

I think I will still be shopping around for a new axle, since I think I will need to replace it eventually, but JB weld has bought me some time to find a good one and a good deal. Plus I will have time to prep the new axle, strip, paint, etc.

Is that 275 shipped?

I dont have any at the moment but its usually $350 shipped. Check ebay.