Bad Upper Ball Joint Angle? (PiCs)

YotaZach85 said:
As far swapping the LBJ's goes you won't need any kind of special tools. The tie rod can be knocked loose by hitting the knuckle with a hammer right on the end in line with the tie rod. This will shock the metal and the tie rod will pop right out without harming the threads or the boot, same goes for the lower ball joint. I've been using this method for years and it has yet to let me down.
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I've done that too and sometimes it does work great, but sometimes it doesn't. I've flattened the threads on the stud by hitting it so many times and when it finally budged, I could no longer get the nut on it. Sometimes they just don't want to let go, especially if it's rusty.

The tie rod puller is the safest bet of not damaging it and would be what a shop would use. Personally I would make sure I still have access to one just in case, but I'm all for cheap DIY so if the hammer works without too much trouble, go for it.
 
brian2sun said:
I've done that too and sometimes it does work great, but sometimes it doesn't. I've flattened the threads on the stud by hitting it so many times and when it finally budged, I could no longer get the nut on it. Sometimes they just don't want to let go, especially if it's rusty.

The tie rod puller is the safest bet of not damaging it and would be what a shop would use. Personally I would make sure I still have access to one just in case, but I'm all for cheap DIY so if the hammer works without too much trouble, go for it.
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You don't hit the stud, you hit the metal around where the stud goes through the knuckle. Sometimes stubborn tie rods will take a couple of smacks with a BFH but they will always pop out without any thread or boot damage, the worse you get is a little dent in the knuckle if you have to hit it more than once.
 
YotaZach85 said:
You don't hit the stud, you hit the metal around where the stud goes through the knuckle. Sometimes stubborn tie rods will take a couple of smacks with a BFH but they will always pop out without any thread or boot damage, the worse you get is a little dent in the knuckle if you have to hit it more than once.
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Oh I've seen them stuck on there way too hard to hit just the side around the stud. That's why I had to start hitting the stud itself and it still didn't budge until after it was too screwed up to salvage.

Sometimes they practically just fall out and a few taps on the side with a hammer to free it up will do the trick. I've had it that easy before too.
 
brian2sun said:
Oh I've seen them stuck on there way too hard to hit just the side around the stud. That's why I had to start hitting the stud itself and it still didn't budge until after it was too screwed up to salvage.

Sometimes they practically just fall out and a few taps on the side with a hammer to free it up will do the trick. I've had it that easy before too.
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Yeah I've been lucky enough to not have any that stuck. The only time I've ever had an issue with this method was on my buddy's Jeep steering stabalizer but we couldn't even get it with a pickle fork.

To the OP, if you do end up using a pickle fork make sure you have the "sloped" side away from the boot.
 
OP, I might be wrong about this, but I'm pretty sure standard coilovers for our 4runners are built to travel nearly an entire inch more than stock struts. You can specifically request coilovers to be built without the "extended travel", but if you want the extended travel, my understanding is that you must use an aftermarket upper control arm capable of accommodating the excess droop. That might be your problem. Tell you what, send me your kings, and I'll send you my OME struts. That way you can keep your UCA's.

I know Camburg, Total Chaos, and Light Racing make aftermarket UCA's. Picking up a set may solve your problem.
 
I've been reading up on the Light racing UCA's and haven't found anything good on them just bad :( which is a bummer cuz they are a great deal, I think i will next month once I've started working again just order some UCA's and lower ball joints and have them all done at once and I think that will fix my front end for a while...Hopefully! thanks for all the valuable information that you guys have been posting, ill be referring back to this thread when it comes time to wrenching down!
 
tmaxx13 said:
I've been reading up on the Light racing UCA's and haven't found anything good on them just bad :( which is a bummer cuz they are a great deal, I think i will next month once I've started working again just order some UCA's and lower ball joints and have them all done at once and I think that will fix my front end for a while...Hopefully! thanks for all the valuable information that you guys have been posting, ill be referring back to this thread when it comes time to wrenching down!
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Yeah, I used Light Racing as an example of UCAs that have a ball joint (as opposed to a uniball). I have no experience with them so I have no feedback on their quality. Might wanna stay away if people aren't giving them good reviews.
 
tmaxx13 said:
no brian i appreciate all the help that you have given! and all the others as well
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Nah, it's cool. :) I just wanted to state for the record that I'm not endorsing Light Racing UCAs because I've never had them. Just don't want anyone saying that I said to get them if they suck, haha.

And nothing against LR either! They might be awesome, I dunno.
 
just checking to see while I'm doing up UCA's and Lower ball joints and have that all apart are there any other bushing or tie rod ends or what not that could be replaced that might be commonly worn after 9 years? things that aren't crazy expensive or won't take to much time while I'm down there. Thank you
 
Not really man, just give everything a good look while you're in there. Steering rack bushings are good for going out but I haven't had to deal with them on anything with less than about 175k.
 
thanks for the reply just getting a list of parts ready to order, I'm at 115,xxx or i should be safe there, just figured i would check and see, thanks again
 
If you are going to do the LBJs, I'd look into replacing the outside TREs, or at least give them a good look over. For an extra $110, why not. Then align. Also inspect the CV boots for any cracking.

Just waiting for Irene here in Danville VA. I got out of Elizabeth City NC. I have lived though one major hurricane, which is enough for me in my lifetime. I'll take it over the cold and snow in Alaska though.
 
Didn't see all those who are in SoCal checking out this thread, but I'd be down for a wrench party to take care of LBJs / UBJs, tie rods, and such. I've got 123K on the original LBJs right now and have been meaning to change them out.
 
i wish i was in so cal to get a little hand but i just move up to alaska this week, i need to try to find out if there is anyone in this forum that is in my area, but there are still many others from so cal that i sure would meet up
 
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