Bad_Vision's 1985 Toyota 4RUNNER TDI Swap (Completed swap)

Finally got the tank situated and was able to finally close the hood. Still trying to figure out a good location for the battery though.

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Port City Racing in Coopersville has some 10mm to AN3 and AN4 fittings.
If you have 12mm they might have to order them but we took advantage of these when we adapted a Subaru IRS to a dune buggy and then used their stainless steel brake lines. They have their catalog online. Bond Fluidaire has some fittings as well.
 
Port City Racing in Coopersville has some 10mm to AN3 and AN4 fittings.

If you have 12mm they might have to order them but we took advantage of these when we adapted a Subaru IRS to a dune buggy and then used their stainless steel brake lines. They have their catalog online. Bond Fluidaire has some fittings as well.



Unfortunately with a power steering line going from Toyota is easy but VW uses a 12mm hard line that is extra trick so no hydraulic fitting will mate to it. Besides cutting and welding two lines I already had made so much more sense then spending more money.


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Going to sand blast the frame and do a thick coat of self etching primer then a coat of rust oleum then coat with monsterliner with no texture.
I will probably have it baked by a local powder coated to ensure bondage if not I will hit the finished paint with a coat of UV resistant clear coat. I'll never have to worry about a rusty frame again! And if I need to weld something to the frame this leaves it open to sand and re apply the same coatings unlike powder coat. Also with powder coat a rock can chip the coating allowing it to rust out under the powder coat.

Hi Bad_Vision,
what are you going to do inside the frame? do you plan to treat it also?
I remember a thread about an acid-bath and hot-dip galvanizing for frames to protect the internal side also. I'm looking for the post about it but I can't find it. I've read houndred of threads in several forums last months, I can't remember the source.
Beside that, a guy who did a great job restoring his Hilux used for his frame some sort of marine antirust paint.
Take a look at this one:
'Mint' 405,000 km MK III Build Thread - Page 14 - Modifications - Hilux Pickup Owners Club & Online Community
he talks about that paint, Jotun Jotamastic 87, in the page 14.
 
Hi Bad_Vision,

what are you going to do inside the frame? do you plan to treat it also?

I remember a thread about an acid-bath and hot-dip galvanizing for frames to protect the internal side also. I'm looking for the post about it but I can't find it. I've read houndred of threads in several forums last months, I can't remember the source.

Beside that, a guy who did a great job restoring his Hilux used for his frame some sort of marine antirust paint.

Take a look at this one:

'Mint' 405,000 km MK III Build Thread - Page 14 - Modifications - Hilux Pickup Owners Club & Online Community

he talks about that paint, Jotun Jotamastic 87, in the page 14.



Acid baths are a waste of money it's to specialized and by the time you find a place that can do a frame you are going to travel a substantial amount.

I'm going to do a sofa bath and electrolysis box. Some 2x4's and some plywood with thick blank plastic. It will take up room but I can draw the rust off it with anodes and electrodes.

If the rust is to substantial inside the frame I would just build a new frame at that point.


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I've used electrolysis several times on small parts (nothing like a frame), the one thing that link is missing is something to make the water conductive. I use soda ash (same thing as washing soda). You can get it fairly cheap at a pool store.
 
I've used electrolysis several times on small parts (nothing like a frame), the one thing that link is missing is something to make the water conductive. I use soda ash (same thing as washing soda). You can get it fairly cheap at a pool store.



I was going to use baking soda but also use a heating fire to keep the water hot as hot water conducts better so a hot soda bath with constant 55 amp and I'm using chicken wire as my electrode as i can form it around the frame to get a better area effect of pulling the iron oxide off the frame.


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I would think chicken wire would deteriorate to fast, but I'm eager to hear about your experience.

I have had problems where the anode deteriorated and moved, touching the rusted piece and shorting the system. Poor placement on my part.
 
I would think chicken wire would deteriorate to fast, but I'm eager to hear about your experience.

I have had problems where the anode deteriorated and moved, touching the rusted piece and shorting the system. Poor placement on my part.



What I meant by the chicken wire was that it would be reinforced with rebar wrapped with chicken wire.
I will have to test it I know that having a electrode in more than one dimension from the frame will be helpful if I can find something that will work 360° around each frame member and rail The rust removal will be more thorough.


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That's exactly it! I'm excited to do it I have a 55 amp 12v power supply so I'm going to be able to do it faster then the guys using a 12 amp battery charger lol

There's a little step from there to plating the frame.
Please, document it! I'd love to watch your videos about rust removal and plating by electrolysis in a 'truck frame scale'.
 
You can get wire mesh from Home Depot that's used to fix old lath and plaster walls and tile. It will probably hold up better than chicken wire and doesn't cost that much. There is a galvanized version and a plain version. I'm going to try some in a 5 gallon bucket with a battery charger or a transformer just for fun. Making a basket with mesh and zip ties to de-rust some hardware parts.
 
Hey guys sorry for the delay I have some down time this week as I'm waiting on some finalized paperwork. I'll be doing longer test drives I hope stay tuned!

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Well got my shocks!!!
When installing the new shocks I decided to put the new brake pads on. I think I discovered why my brakes wouldn't work lol good thing I ordered caliper rebuild kits.

I'm hopefully going to have them rebuilt today and truck should be ready for the new 37 inch tires that are supposed to be here Friday.

I also install the new rear drive shaft spacers I built test drove it before I tore the breaks apart and it works just fine up to 25 miles an hour without breaks I didn't dare leave the parking lot!
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