Bad_Vision's 1985 Toyota 4RUNNER TDI Swap (Completed swap)

Well today I put on about 50 miles. I only have one small issue. At random the engine will act as if it doesn't have boost when I turn it off and back on the problem is fixed and it only did this 3 times. I'm not sure if I have a bad n75 valve I will be testing the valve and also contacting the tuner to see if they have any ideas!
More videos tomorrow of it going down the road!

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Also check vacuum at the pump, constant 27hg I believe. Vacuum lines and test movement of your actuator(guard that to keep mud off it and rust forming on the rod and rotting the can) Specs can be found on TDI Club. I think it should start to move at 5 and travel an inch at 15. Also there is vacuum routing info and drawings, particularly if you delete the egr and/r asv
 
Also check vacuum at the pump, constant 27hg I believe. Vacuum lines and test movement of your actuator(guard that to keep mud off it and rust forming on the rod and rotting the can) Specs can be found on TDI Club. I think it should start to move at 5 and travel an inch at 15. Also there is vacuum routing info and drawings, particularly if you delete the egr and/r asv
Actuator is dead on I adjusted it already. It feels like the N75 valve to me because it's very random and shutting down and restarting fixes it for about 20 minutes and from what I read that's common

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As promised here is a driving video for you guys!!!

I can't help but love this set up! I almost bought a Toyota RV today in thinking I could TDI swap it as well lol unfortunately the thing was in horrible shape so didn't pull the trigger on it.


https://youtu.be/BpjhzRc0OAA

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Nick, another issue that can cause over boost is soft vacuum line to the acuator. It happened on my Jetta. When you back off the throttle and vacuum drops, the hose momentarily collapses trapping vacuum to the actuator causing overboost, fault signal, and limp mode. The limp mode is reset with the key cycle. Sound familiar? Easy check. Good to see you had it out, you've done lot's of work.
 
Nick, another issue that can cause over boost is soft vacuum line to the acuator. It happened on my Jetta. When you back off the throttle and vacuum drops, the hose momentarily collapses trapping vacuum to the actuator causing overboost, fault signal, and limp mode. The limp mode is reset with the key cycle. Sound familiar? Easy check. Good to see you had it out, you've done lot's of work.
All my lines are silicone hard lines. So that's not it. The truck is going to the VW shop next week for a timing belt and fuel pump timing so if that doesn't fix it then it has to be the N75 I'll know more when the Bluetooth OBD2 scanner gets here.

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Got TDI swap number 2's engine into the 1985 4runner.
Everything is faster now that I don't have to engineer everything lol
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You're a machine. When I first got into TDis years back, I was plauged with overboost issues. There are several good flowcharts out there that I recommend following.

You can troubleshoot N75 by swapping in the N18 valve right next to it. Or if you had VCDS you could manually cycle the N75 valve and monitor it's status. You could also see requested vs. actual boost and make it easier to track down.

Only like $95 for VCDS and worth every penny if you're spending any length of time with tdi

P.s. if you want to save $400, you can easily do t-belt yourself. Tons of videos and guides

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vcdslitereg/
 
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You're a machine. When I first got into TDis years back, I was plauged with overboost issues. There are several good flowcharts out there that I recommend following.

You can troubleshoot N75 by swapping in the N18 valve right next to it. Or if you had VCDS you could manually cycle the N75 valve and monitor it's status. You could also see requested vs. actual boost and make it easier to track down.

Only like $95 for VCDS and worth every penny if you're spending any length of time with tdi

P.s. if you want to save $400, you can easily do t-belt yourself. Tons of videos and guides

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vcdslitereg/
I have the vag cable just not a laptop yet.

The local Volkswagen Guru shop is only charging me 250 to time the pump and do my timing belt. They think it's super cool so they're giving me a deal.

I'm going to try swapping those valves today.
 
I have the vag cable just not a laptop yet.

The local Volkswagen Guru shop is only charging me 250 to time the pump and do my timing belt. They think it's super cool so they're giving me a deal.

I'm going to try swapping those valves today.
Smoking deal. On an unrelated note, have you looked into nozzles yet? :D
 
Well I got my OBD2 Bluetooth hooked up and it seems I'm getting 23 lbs of boost does that sound like to much for a stage 1 tune?

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Seems I heard you don't run into issues until 26 or 28, not sure. Donna's car runs in that range ok. TDI club forum has some very sharp people on it. Check there and with your tuner. Ross tech has good support if you bought your cable from them.
 
Well the code it's throwing is a p0238.
Today I installed a Bluetooth radio as well as a SR5 gauge cluster so the only thing left on the interior is a heater faceplate as the one I have is broken.

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Well the code it's throwing is a p0238.
Today I installed a Bluetooth radio as well as a SR5 gauge cluster so the only thing left on the interior is a heater faceplate as the one I have is broken.

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Overboost. What psi is your tune specc'd to deliver? IIRC that seems high for a VNT-15 ... but I could be wrong. Let me know if/when you're ready to talk turbos :D
 

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