Ball joints: What would you do if this was your front end

[Morphyne]

I'm not sure what ingenuity is needed to do this. Pretty simple.

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove nut attaching uca to spindle.
3. Beat uca with bfh until it let's go. Pickle fork will help.
4. Remove big long bolt from inside of uca. Note. You will need to move the battery to get the diver side out.
5. Reverse process for install.

Protip. Do not tighten uca long holt nut until tires are on the ground. Otherwise you will get squeaking.

 

[RonJR]

I'm not sure what ingenuity is needed to do this. Pretty simple.

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove nut attaching uca to spindle.
3. Beat uca with bfh until it let's go. Pickle fork will help.
4. Remove big long bolt from inside of uca. Note. You will need to move the battery to get the diver side out.
5. Reverse process for install.

Protip. Do not tighten uca long holt nut until tires are on the ground. Otherwise you will get squeaking.

Well, it was a little tricky figuring how to hold the new UCA in place while you go up to the front of the vehicle and thread the long bolt past the radiator and battery box into the UCA and frame. I wound up pushing a screwdriver through the UCA and frame from the rear to keep it in place while I pushed the bolt through. It would be easier with a second person.

I used a ball joint separator from Auto Zone to pop the original bj's apart. That felt better to me than beating on it with a hammer.

I was able to do the job w/o removing the battery.

 

[NinjaOne]

I'm not sure what ingenuity is needed to do this. Pretty simple.

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove nut attaching uca to spindle.
3. Beat uca with bfh until it let's go. Pickle fork will help.
4. Remove big long bolt from inside of uca. Note. You will need to move the battery to get the diver side out.
5. Reverse process for install.

Protip. Do not tighten uca long holt nut until tires are on the ground. Otherwise you will get squeaking.

Dang, that's prob. why mine are/were squeaking. Loosen and re-tighten with the wheels on the ground? A jack under the LCA as effective as the wheel on the ground (just for the extra work room?)

Well, it was a little tricky figuring how to hold the new UCA in place while you go up to the front of the vehicle and thread the long bolt past the radiator and battery box into the UCA and frame. I wound up pushing a screwdriver through the UCA and frame from the rear to keep it in place while I pushed the bolt through. It would be easier with a second person.

I used a ball joint separator from Auto Zone to pop the original bj's apart. That felt better to me than beating on it with a hammer.

I was able to do the job w/o removing the battery.

I was also able to do the job w/out removing the battery. I (gently) used pliers and moved the UCA up and down and was able to push it through by myself.

Good to know. I'll be buying those probably tomorrow if the price changes at all due to BF, but I do need them soon as I am experiencing a horrible toe with my wheels throwing all my specs off. So I am hoping with these new assemblies it'll allow me to have everything aligned correctly and properly.

And you've done this yourself? I've never taken a project on like this, and I am worried about getting stuck and not having a vehicle to work with. How hard is this process and what special tools do you need? For a first timer


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No special tools needed. I tapped the bottom of the balljoint bolt with a hammer and it popped right out.

Two 19mm wrenches are helpful, but a 19mm and a 3/4"? also works

Toe is adjusted via the tie rods, UCAs shouldn't really impact toe.

 

[Morphyne]

Dang, that's prob. why mine are/were squeaking. Loosen and re-tighten with the wheels on the ground? A jack under the LCA as effective as the wheel on the ground (just for the extra work room?)


I was also able to do the job w/out removing the battery. I (gently) used pliers and moved the UCA up and down and was able to push it through by myself.



No special tools needed. I tapped the bottom of the balljoint bolt with a hammer and it popped right out.

Two 19mm wrenches are helpful, but a 19mm and a 3/4"? also works

Toe is adjusted via the tie rods, UCAs shouldn't really impact toe.

Yeah dude. Exact thing happened to me. All I had to do was reach in and loosen and retighten the nut. Nut Jacks or anything. Can't remember if I reached it from the wheel well or the engine bay.

 

[xxaarraa]

SPC is the same as Light Racing.

 

[03v8raleigh]

Awesome replies, thanks everyone. So from what I understand, Moog replacements may be fine but are generally not recommended. I want OEM, but $350 per LCA ($700+ just for parts) is a bit steep. Then for the UCA's, I could use this as an opportunity to upgrade to aftermarket UCA's which would be $450-650 depending on brand. The advantage of getting complete UCA and LCA's is that I can probably just install them myself (rather than paying that 4x4 shop ungodly amounts of money to replace the ball joints alone). Cost for this preferred setup would be $1200 not including tie rods and then the alignment.

What about buying these aftermarket LCA's as complete units? https://www.1aauto.com/control-arm-with-ball-joint-front-pair/i/1asfk01969?f=847972&y=2003
Brand New 10pc Complete Front Suspension Kit for Lexus GX470 Toyota and 4Runner | eBay
or a similar kit? They are a quarter of the price of an OEM setup. With those savings I could theoretically afford the UCA's and end up with all 4 new balljoints, and install everything myself. (Assuming LCA installation is as easy as UCA's described above.)

It's hard to justify spending much money on this stuff when the car doesn't even have a nice suspension setup to begin with, just a spacer lift. Just want to make sure it is safe and won't fail on me during long trips. I also don't want to have to do this work again in 10,000 miles if the cheap parts fail.

 

[URBUGGED]

Awesome replies, thanks everyone. So from what I understand, Moog replacements may be fine but are generally not recommended. I want OEM, but $350 per LCA ($700+ just for parts) is a bit steep. Then for the UCA's, I could use this as an opportunity to upgrade to aftermarket UCA's which would be $450-650 depending on brand. The advantage of getting complete UCA and LCA's is that I can probably just install them myself (rather than paying that 4x4 shop ungodly amounts of money to replace the ball joints alone). Cost for this preferred setup would be $1200 not including tie rods and then the alignment.

What about buying these aftermarket LCA's as complete units? https://www.1aauto.com/control-arm-with-ball-joint-front-pair/i/1asfk01969?f=847972&y=2003
Brand New 10pc Complete Front Suspension Kit for Lexus GX470 Toyota and 4Runner | eBay
or a similar kit? They are a quarter of the price of an OEM setup. With those savings I could theoretically afford the UCA's and end up with all 4 new balljoints, and install everything myself. (Assuming LCA installation is as easy as UCA's described above.)

It's hard to justify spending much money on this stuff when the car doesn't even have a nice suspension setup to begin with, just a spacer lift. Just want to make sure it is safe and won't fail on me during long trips. I also don't want to have to do this work again in 10,000 miles if the cheap parts fail.

I will be doing the same +more repairs to my front end as well. I estimated it would cost about $1,300 to do the repairs w/ OEM parts(quite expensive). This is directed to OP. The reviews from 1aauto.com came with a ton of complaints about fabrication and welding issues. Not good.
In addition to the OP's link for the LEXUS parts I want to add one more. I found this "Front End Kit" from rockauto.com and wanted someone to chime in on the options OP and I found. I agree, the repair cost really set back my plans to lift the rig but atleast this bad boy will last now that I'm taking care of it.
One day you may.
2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Front End Kit | RockAuto
I really want to work on this as soon as possible. OP do you have a what's app or viber? PM me please. ThankS!

 

[xxaarraa]

As much as it hurts to spend the high price for OEM, I would recommend you go that route instead of aftermarket. Toyota OEM for our trucks is overbuilt especially the fornt end. Judging by how OEM front end parts last well over 100k miles for most folks on here, that will save you money in the long run. When most of the cost of a front-end job is labor, I wouldn't pick cheap parts and have to redo everything twice as often (or worse). Do a search on here for folks doing auto parts store CV axle installs and countless re-installs, you'll get the idea.

Do it right and it only hurts once. Or something to that effect.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Always wondered if these were too good to be true?

New set of LCA's with all bushings/joints for $127 on ebay w/ 10 year warranty.
You think they are made with Toyota joints?

Control Arm Front Lower Driver Passenger Pair Set for Toyota 4Runner FJ Cruiser | eBay

 

[03v8raleigh]

Always wondered if these were too good to be true?

New set of LCA's with all bushings/joints for $127 on ebay w/ 10 year warranty.
You think they are made with Toyota joints?

Control Arm Front Lower Driver Passenger Pair Set for Toyota 4Runner FJ Cruiser | eBay

I am tempted to try those or a similar cheap set from ebay, Amazon or 1a auto. For the price, I could install 5 brand new sets over the life of the vehicle before I reached the initial purchase price of the OEMs.. but the risk of failure is a bit disconcerting. If it really isn't hard to install whole arms myself then I may just have to go this route. SPC upper control arms and Amazon LCAs/tierods. This would run me about $700 total, before alignment. Or I can just ignore it and hope it doesn't explode haha

 

[4thgenblake]

To everyone viewing, are there any after market tie rods that I can install that are stronger/better? Or should I just go with new tie rod ends? I want to replace mine. LCAs will be next to complete all of my front end repairs. Anyone have links? Preferably not toyota OEM...

 

[URBUGGED]

I am tempted to try those or a similar cheap set from ebay, Amazon or 1a auto. For the price, I could install 5 brand new sets over the life of the vehicle before I reached the initial purchase price of the OEMs.. but the risk of failure is a bit disconcerting. If it really isn't hard to install whole arms myself then I may just have to go this route. SPC upper control arms and Amazon LCAs/tierods. This would run me about $700 total, before alignment. Or I can just ignore it and hope it doesn't explode haha

You DIY guys should check out this site out. This is what I've found for most of the cheapest online prices for genuine OEM parts. You can price out genuine OEM parts to buy a completely new part or if willing to put a little elbow grease to swap and replace components.
Toyota OEM Parts | EB TOYOTA PARTS | toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com

Also, I tried attaching a very clear Front Suspension Component Document but failed. So I will direct you to bulldog's post on toyota120.com so you can print this doc as a guide:
Field Repair guide - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[URBUGGED]

To everyone viewing, are there any after market tie rods that I can install that are stronger/better? Or should I just go with new tie rod ends? I want to replace mine. LCAs will be next to complete all of my front end repairs. Anyone have links? Preferably not toyota OEM...

Did you buy your parts yet? What did you decide to do?

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[URBUGGED]

I am tempted to try those or a similar cheap set from ebay, Amazon or 1a auto. For the price, I could install 5 brand new sets over the life of the vehicle before I reached the initial purchase price of the OEMs.. but the risk of failure is a bit disconcerting. If it really isn't hard to install whole arms myself then I may just have to go this route. SPC upper control arms and Amazon LCAs/tierods. This would run me about $700 total, before alignment. Or I can just ignore it and hope it doesn't explode haha

I just wanted to be updated on what you guys decided to buy for your replacement parts? I posted a link on here of the cheapest website ive found but at the moment i got caught up with holiday shopping and i will deal with my runner come this Jamuary. Im at about $1,400 in parts so im leaving the car in the garage for now.
Also, can anyone tell me if there is a way to get an OEM ball joint for the uppers and lowers? I cant seem to find any online. Help please

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[EdmundGTP]

I just wanted to be updated on what you guys decided to buy for your replacement parts? I posted a link on here of the cheapest website ive found but at the moment i got caught up with holiday shopping and i will deal with my runner come this Jamuary. Im at about $1,400 in parts so im leaving the car in the garage for now.
Also, can anyone tell me if there is a way to get an OEM ball joint for the uppers and lowers? I cant seem to find any online. Help please

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~500 for the pair of OEM LCA's isn't bad, as sold at your link in post 32. If I had found those when I re-did my front end last February I would have gone that route.

I took a gamble and ordered the LCA set from 1Aauto and put those in. As was mentioned earlier, I can replace them 2-3x over for the cost of OEM. Fit finish and quality seemed to be good. Haven't had any problems with them so far and they've taken some pretty good off road abuse over the summer.

I did however keep my OEM LCA's with the intention of replacing the bushings and ball joint, so that if/when the 1Aauto LCAs go tits-up, I have a replacement ready to go.

Either way they're not likely to fail catastrophically, and any defects or degradation should be noticeable if one pays attention. Swapping out LCA's is a piece of cake after you've done it once.

 

[03v8raleigh]

~500 for the pair of OEM LCA's isn't bad, as sold at your link in post 32. If I had found those when I re-did my front end last February I would have gone that route.

I took a gamble and ordered the LCA set from 1Aauto and put those in. As was mentioned earlier, I can replace them 2-3x over for the cost of OEM. Fit finish and quality seemed to be good. Haven't had any problems with them so far and they've taken some pretty good off road abuse over the summer.

I did however keep my OEM LCA's with the intention of replacing the bushings and ball joint, so that if/when the 1Aauto LCAs go tits-up, I have a replacement ready to go.

Either way they're not likely to fail catastrophically, and any defects or degradation should be noticeable if one pays attention. Swapping out LCA's is a piece of cake after you've done it once.

Good to hear about the 1A auto LCA's. I have been too busy with final exams to do anything on the truck (it just sits during the week since I commute locally via motorcycle) but I plan to do the following in a few weeks when I have time over winter break:

+ Purchase a torque wrench
+ Purchase 1Aauto lower control arm assemblies ($150)
+ Purchase aftermarket UCA's, probably the $450 SPC's, off Amazon.
+ Purchase inner tie rods but I'm not sure where to get these yet.

= Attempt to install everything myself. I don't mind spending money on quality parts when I need to, but I hate paying other people for labor if it's avoidable. Hopefully I can get everything installed within a day. I will probably keep the old LCA's to maybe have rebuilt as well.

Then get an alignment at Toyota.

Hopefully I'm not forgettting anything.. I have a long list of other things I want to do to the truck over the 3 week break as well: Tranny fluid drain/fill/filter/gasket (since my model has the dipstick), clean the frame/undercarriage since the previous owner seems to have dipped this thing in a few mud-holes and it's got some surface rust I want gone, finally get my Airlift bags installed, get a matching size spare tire mounted, install a rear lightbar under the spoiler, adjust the parking brake, make a roof rack that fits between my Thule bars, perfect my sleeping platform, add a louder horn, and if I have any money left after Christmas shopping (doubtful), I want to install a bluetooth radio, speakers, and amp. Stereo upgrades are a dangerous, money-sucking road to go down though so I'm trying to hold myself back :dancin:


Does anyone have a link to full write-up for LCA and UCA installation with torque specs?

 

[4thgenblake]

Did you buy your parts yet? What did you decide to do?

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I bought

Skyjacker 3" lift rear sway bar links (amazon)
Autochassis front sway bar links (eBay)
SPC ucas (eBay)
Energy bushings both sway bars (amazon)

Still want

Mevotech LCAs (ebay)
New tie rods
SPC cambolt kit for added camber/caster

 

[EdmundGTP]

Good to hear about the 1A auto LCA's. I have been too busy with final exams to do anything on the truck (it just sits during the week since I commute locally via motorcycle) but I plan to do the following in a few weeks when I have time over winter break:

+ Purchase a torque wrench
+ Purchase 1Aauto lower control arm assemblies ($150)
+ Purchase aftermarket UCA's, probably the $450 SPC's, off Amazon.
+ Purchase inner tie rods but I'm not sure where to get these yet.

= Attempt to install everything myself. I don't mind spending money on quality parts when I need to, but I hate paying other people for labor if it's avoidable. Hopefully I can get everything installed within a day. I will probably keep the old LCA's to maybe have rebuilt as well.

Then get an alignment at Toyota.

Hopefully I'm not forgettting anything.. I have a long list of other things I want to do to the truck over the 3 week break as well: Tranny fluid drain/fill/filter/gasket (since my model has the dipstick), clean the frame/undercarriage since the previous owner seems to have dipped this thing in a few mud-holes and it's got some surface rust I want gone, finally get my Airlift bags installed, get a matching size spare tire mounted, install a rear lightbar under the spoiler, adjust the parking brake, make a roof rack that fits between my Thule bars, perfect my sleeping platform, add a louder horn, and if I have any money left after Christmas shopping (doubtful), I want to install a bluetooth radio, speakers, and amp. Stereo upgrades are a dangerous, money-sucking road to go down though so I'm trying to hold myself back :dancin:


Does anyone have a link to full write-up for LCA and UCA installation with torque specs?

Look for the stickied thread that has the field service manual pdf's. That should have exploded diagrams that say how everything fits together. Didn't find any instructions anywhere when I did mine. The job is pretty self explanatory if you're mechanically inclined.

You're gonna need a big torque wrench, some of the bolts you have to remove and replace are upwards of 160 Ft Lb.

 

[URBUGGED]

Look for the stickied thread that has the field service manual pdf's. That should have exploded diagrams that say how everything fits together. Didn't find any instructions anywhere when I did mine. The job is pretty self explanatory if you're mechanically inclined.

You're gonna need a big torque wrench, some of the bolts you have to remove and replace are upwards of 160 Ft Lb.

You da man Edmund!

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[03v8raleigh]

[MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION]
I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering parts to rebuild my front end, so I wanted to double check with you because you have the 1Aauto LCA's, right? You posted about them before but I don't remember where that was. How long have you had them and have they been holding up? I know you are hard on your stuff so if you recommend them then I'll probably order these now:
https://www.1aauto.com/control-arm-with-ball-joint-front-pair/i/1asfk01969?f=847972&y=2003

1aAuto seems to have pretty terrible reviews as far as component quality. I'm tempted to buy some 2006+ projector headlights from them too but I feel like I'm already taking a big risk on these LCA's.

I will also be ordering adjustable UCA's. Are these a generally recommended product? https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Pr...962&sr=8-1&keywords=4runner+upper+control+arm
Price just went up slightly, if anyone knows a better place to order from, let me know