NCSCOTT
New member
The battery Hold-downs are only threaded on the top 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 inch.
See arrows in the pic. The Height adapter adds about a inch to the total heigth.
Battery...700cca??
- Thread starter MD4Runner014
- Start date
The battery Hold-downs are only threaded on the top 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 inch.
See arrows in the pic. The Height adapter adds about a inch to the total heigth.
docfeelgood
New member
Someone mentioned it above, stock battery is a Panasonic Battery.
I went to Sears and got Diehard Gold battery
Rated with 700 CCA, Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F) & Reserve Capacity (RC) of 120 min, 5 year warrenty
Cost me $110.00 plus tax.
I went to Sears and got Diehard Gold battery
Rated with 700 CCA, Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F) & Reserve Capacity (RC) of 120 min, 5 year warrenty
Cost me $110.00 plus tax.
Should I return the red top for a better battery?
nice job on the install. I ordered the same red top for my 2004 sport. I then, saw some bad reviews and tried to cancel the order but it was too late. Amazon is quick! So my question to the board is: I havent mod'ed anything on my truck. I dont have anything extra other than the 6CD radio with amp that came with it (that radio blows but that's for another post). In fact, my original battery works fine from what I can tell (oh, what I would do to buy the OEM instead!). I live in NY and am going to Canada for a ski trip in a couple weeks so I thought I would take this red top just in case the old Panny died of frost bite. Given the recent reviews, should I simply refuse delivery of the red top Optima and get another battery or should I just install it and be happy? I only have the standard upgrade radio/amp drawing any extra amps.
nice job on the install. I ordered the same red top for my 2004 sport. I then, saw some bad reviews and tried to cancel the order but it was too late. Amazon is quick! So my question to the board is: I havent mod'ed anything on my truck. I dont have anything extra other than the 6CD radio with amp that came with it (that radio blows but that's for another post). In fact, my original battery works fine from what I can tell (oh, what I would do to buy the OEM instead!). I live in NY and am going to Canada for a ski trip in a couple weeks so I thought I would take this red top just in case the old Panny died of frost bite. Given the recent reviews, should I simply refuse delivery of the red top Optima and get another battery or should I just install it and be happy? I only have the standard upgrade radio/amp drawing any extra amps.
scottm
New member
I just replaced the battery in my Land Cruiser with a bigger one, love it. It's a size 49 Duracell from Sam's Club, $88 with a three-year replacement warranty, and eight-year prorated warranty. 900CCA, powerful bugger, 14" long, barely fits between the radiator and fender. I've gotten new batteries with full warranties from Sam's when the three-year was over, paid seven dollars one time for a new size 49 for my Audi.
The one I replaced was a Werker from Batteries+, 2.5 years old with a 2-year warranty, worst battery I've seen, comes from Germany.
Most batteries sold here come from just a few manufacturers, not much difference.
The one I replaced was a Werker from Batteries+, 2.5 years old with a 2-year warranty, worst battery I've seen, comes from Germany.
Most batteries sold here come from just a few manufacturers, not much difference.
I had a red top optima fail on me pretty soon. I had it in my explorer and it maybe lasted 2 years. All i really had extra were two small amps and the battery wasnt ever really drained past being able to start the car. Since then i've used interstate batteries with pretty good luck but i really wish i could get another one of the real Toyota batteries. I have a 2007 and am still on the factory battery. I havent really had any issues but know im pushing my luck at this point so im looking around too.
Whats the story with the Odyssey batteries?
Whats the story with the Odyssey batteries?
BlackWorksInc
New member
Just a small note to add here...
Your battery is only needed for really 2 things, to crank the vehicle over and most importantly provide a buffer to smooth out the vehicle charging system voltage as it fluctuates under normal operating conditions.
Once the vehicle is started you are running off the alternator primarily, if your battery is dying or dead, the alternator is going to be working harder than it should be to recharge the battery and maintain the vehicle's operating requirements.
Alternators are designed to top off batteries, NOT charge them up. Many batteries and alternators are not designed for deep cycling and it will be very hard on the components.
Another thing to note, many of today's hand held testers and computerized testers account for surface charge (the hightened voltage that remains for a period after you turn the vehicle off), before these became more common place you would normally use a VAT 40 and turn the high beams on for a minute or two, or load up the battery to draw off this charge to get a proper battery reading.
They test the condition of the battery not by whether or not it cranks the vehicle over (you can still crank a vehicle over with something like 10~11v on a battery usually) but how it responds to accepting a charge and holding a charge. Batteries in modern cars are far more important to the vehicle than they used to be. In these newer networked and electronically controlled vehicles they act as a large condenser to smooth out voltage fluctuations in the vehicle since so much of the computers and sensors and solenoids need precise voltage patterns and signals. A failing battery can create resistance against the charging system causing these fluctuations to affect vehicle performance.The 4Runners are not as finicky as say BMW or Mercedes when the batteries start failing, but they have their moments.
Sorry for the long winded post, but I wanted to make sure that you understood how your battery works as part of the vehicle and that just because it manages to crank the vehicle over, doesn't mean it can't be bad.
Your battery is only needed for really 2 things, to crank the vehicle over and most importantly provide a buffer to smooth out the vehicle charging system voltage as it fluctuates under normal operating conditions.
Once the vehicle is started you are running off the alternator primarily, if your battery is dying or dead, the alternator is going to be working harder than it should be to recharge the battery and maintain the vehicle's operating requirements.
Alternators are designed to top off batteries, NOT charge them up. Many batteries and alternators are not designed for deep cycling and it will be very hard on the components.
Another thing to note, many of today's hand held testers and computerized testers account for surface charge (the hightened voltage that remains for a period after you turn the vehicle off), before these became more common place you would normally use a VAT 40 and turn the high beams on for a minute or two, or load up the battery to draw off this charge to get a proper battery reading.
They test the condition of the battery not by whether or not it cranks the vehicle over (you can still crank a vehicle over with something like 10~11v on a battery usually) but how it responds to accepting a charge and holding a charge. Batteries in modern cars are far more important to the vehicle than they used to be. In these newer networked and electronically controlled vehicles they act as a large condenser to smooth out voltage fluctuations in the vehicle since so much of the computers and sensors and solenoids need precise voltage patterns and signals. A failing battery can create resistance against the charging system causing these fluctuations to affect vehicle performance.The 4Runners are not as finicky as say BMW or Mercedes when the batteries start failing, but they have their moments.
Sorry for the long winded post, but I wanted to make sure that you understood how your battery works as part of the vehicle and that just because it manages to crank the vehicle over, doesn't mean it can't be bad.
I'm starting to think about replacing my OEM battery.
Every once in a while, when it's below zero out, I think I hear the starter hesitating ever so slightly.
It's 8 years old now, and has been shaken over probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 40k miles on gravel roads. I wonder why the aftermarket batteries usually seem to be so bad by comparison, is there some sort of lead-acid battery cartel that is keeping the quality batteries away from American consumers?
Every once in a while, when it's below zero out, I think I hear the starter hesitating ever so slightly.
It's 8 years old now, and has been shaken over probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 40k miles on gravel roads. I wonder why the aftermarket batteries usually seem to be so bad by comparison, is there some sort of lead-acid battery cartel that is keeping the quality batteries away from American consumers?
