Beat the gas prices beast!!

EquineRunner97

New member
Just a friendly reminder that to maximize your MPG's you need to make sure your tire pressure is adequate.

Ex: The past 2 months my MPG's have hovered around 16.5-17 depending on driving style. Checked my tire pressure. It was at 35 all around!! For Toyo MTs! The rating on the tire is 80. Filled em to 60 and wah-lah!! MPG's are now up to 17.86 as of today. Hitting 225 on a tank today was GOLDEN.

So again, CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE if you want to maximize your miles per $4 spent!!

:artist2:
 
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I'd be more concerned about proper tire wear than gaining 1mpg. Besides, at 60psi the ride must be absolutely terrible!
 
Seriously 60 PSI for our trucks is high in my opinion, even with your ARB. I had mine at 45 PSI and thought that was too hard and lowered it to 36. The terrible ride isnt worth the minor gain in MPG to me. If I was worried about MPG I wouldn't have bought a 4runner and then lifted it. I would be in Honda CR-Z (might be a future DD)
 
60psi? yeah........no thanks.......

At 60psi, I'm sure you will screw the tires resulting in buying new(er) ones. All the benefits/saving of this are erased when you over inflate the tires.

Has anyone tried "hyper-miling"? IMO, its just plain dangerous to do, just a question............... I tried "light hyper-miling" by turning the engine off at every red light/coasting whenever possible. This was for a day. But that's about it. What did I notice? I noticed it was an incredible pain in the a** to do.

For those who are EXTREMELY concerned about gas mileage, it's very simple, get a small car!
 
Just follow what the car says, not the side of the tire. The PSI marked on the sidewall of the tire is the maximum pressure. Unless you have a lift or a bunch of extra weight stay within the manufacturers spec.

@Cookieroe. Don't some of the new "green" cars shut off automatically at red-lights and start again when you want to go?
 
Some hypermilling techinques are very useful, some are very dangerous, you have to use common sense when deciding which to use. I will shut my car off at lights i know i will sit out for 45 seconds plus.

And dous yes, but its one of those things you dont want the car to do on its own.
 
@Cookieroe. Don't some of the new "green" cars shut off automatically at red-lights and start again when you want to go?

Pretty sure most if not all Hybrids do this. Some auto manufactures with their "regular" engines (Chrysler, GM and I can't remember who else) have cylinder shut down (a V8 will "turn off" 4 cylinders) when at highway speed. Very neat! I remember reading somewhere that a manufacture (BMW, Rolls Royce, again, I can't remember........I'll do some research) will have their engines turn off at a stop light and reignite when the gas pedal is pressed. Our 4Runner's starters are not made for this constant turning on/off, which is why I believe hypermiling in a runner is just plain silly.
 
For those of you who commented on my tire pressure, I have load range E Toyo Open Country M/T's... suggested max pressure is 80 PSI.

The ride is slightly more rough than before, but the get up and go and the gain in mpg's is worth it.

I calculated my MPG's today... 18.31 :D


And when I bought my 4runner, I wasn't worried about MPGs at all. But now I have a commute of 44 miles roundtrip 5-6 days a week, and can't help but do what I can to get better MPGs. (Oh, and I'm looking for a reliable beater if anyone's selling)
 
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There's a couple on this list that are safe and may helpful you see a return.

100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com

Some are very obvious to do, some may help though.

i.e. : 45, 47, 81, 91, 97, 98, 39, 33, 11, 7, 8.

Also when at the lights you can shift the car into neutral as the car is exterting effort to move forward.

Thanks for posting that link. All are good ideas, even if some can't be used unless you drive a hybrid.
Something not mentioned:
Keep you truck in good shape, regular tune-ups. Especially the air filter, wheel balancing and alignments.

[EDIT]
Of special note to forum members:
If you’ve changed tire or rim size, factory tire inflation recommendations ares no longer correct. Check your inflation either with a temperature gauge or the old flour method. Check both front and rear.

If you’ve raised your truck, try to keep the static (parked) suspension geometry as close to factory as possible. Use a dropped upper control arm and drop the front differential. Most 4Rs have about 2” between the front diff and skid plate. This means you can drop the front diff 1” to 1.5” inches without hitting the skid plate or effecting ground clearance.
[/EDIT]
 
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