Best Code reader for 3rd gens

[sterbenlicht]

It does, but not on most vehicles this old. I'm pretty sure the 3rd gens all have either factory systems with the sequence with the door and ignition or they have the VIP with the button on the ECU and pressing the remote button. It programs all newer immobilizer keys, fobs and such things though.

 

[Arv]

Ordered, not received. Does Techstream program remotes??

Yes that's what I've seen since I started looking into it since Sternbenlicth posted about it. Apparently I'm assuming depending on the vehicle, you can change a lot of options like wether you car chips or not when you lock/unlock, intermittent wiper duration, etc...

So you got the Fotga one? That seems to be the safest with the most reviews.

 

[Arv]

It does, but not on most vehicles this old. I'm pretty sure the 3rd gens all have either factory systems with the sequence with the door and ignition or they have the VIP with the button on the ECU and pressing the remote button. It programs all newer immobilizer keys, fobs and such things though.

you beat me to it! Oh I didn't know that would not work with the 3rd gens but hopefully it'll work on my wife's '02 Coach ed. RX300, that's what I've seen so far. She lost the master key with remote. Actually just the chip, since the case cracked and it fell out. So I couldn't program it by the usual procedure with the door lock/unlock sequence.

BTW, thanks for pointing out that the techstream cable is actually very affordable.
If it does not work for the key, I'll be using it for other stuff.

I'll be like Fast and the Furious rolling with a laptop!

 

[sterbenlicht]

you beat me to it! Oh I didn't know that would not work with the 3rd gens but hopefully it'll work on my wife's '02 Coach ed. RX300, that's what I've seen so far. She lost the master key with remote. Actually just the chip, since the case cracked and it fell out. So I couldn't program it by the usual procedure with the door lock/unlock sequence.

BTW, thanks for pointing out that the techstream cable is actually very affordable.
If it does not work for the key, I'll be using it for other stuff.

I'll be like Fast and the Furious rolling with a laptop!

Which part is she missing, and which part are you trying to program? I ask because even with Techstream, you need a master key to program a new key or a remote.

And yeah, it's pretty awesome. You feel like you're doing big things in life when you have a laptop connected to your car lol

 

[Arv]

Which part is she missing, and which part are you trying to program? I ask because even with Techstream, you need a master key to program a new key or a remote.

And yeah, it's pretty awesome. You feel like you're doing big things in life when you have a laptop connected to your car lol

So what I have now is the remote/mater key shell and shank since the chip inside fell out and is lost. I also have a valet and wallet card key (the one the you have to put the card next to the ignition switch before you can start the car.

I don't really know what you call the key system, I guess its somewhere in between dumb and smart keys. LOL.

When I googled reprogramming remote keys with tech stream I did see some peeps programing similar looking keys with tech stream without their original remote master key. So I'm hoping it'll work for me too. I haven't purchased the replacement key yet since my friend's friend that works at the Lex dealership is no vacation.

So do you think this will work?

 

[sterbenlicht]

So you have a key with the remote in the "handle" part of the key. The actual cut key and the wireless entry are two different systems in the car, even though they're on the same device. Since the remote portion of it has no guts anymore, I'm assuming you're not trying to program the remote, and that you're trying to at least program the key portion to the immobilizer so it'll start the car. Otherwise, I still can't figure out what you're trying to program.

(or you're wondering if this will program the new key you're planning on getting when this person gets back from vacation)

If that is the case, to program a new ignition key to the immobilizer with Techstream, the instructions are to insert a master key into the switch, hit Next, within X seconds remove the master key and insert the new key to be programmed, hit Next, and wait while it registers. This is only for immobilizer keys.

For remotes, you typically have to do things like go into the main body ECU and register a new wireless code. It'll tell you how many remotes you already have programmed to the car, and how many more you can program to it. It'll then have you do something along the lines of hitting Next through the first step or two, and having you press both lock and unlock at the same time for a second and then letting go and then pressing either lock or unlock (your choice) within a couple of seconds. You'll hear the feedback from the car when it beeps and the lights flash. This programming might be possible without a master key.

If you need to program a new key (not remote part) and you don't have a functional master key that can start the car, then you might not be able to program another one without an immobilizer reset. That's done with Techstream as well, but you'll need the dealer to do it. Not a DIY process.

The problem here is that it's right around the years in Toyota/Lexus when the keys and security systems were starting to rely on factory ECUs. The changeover from the old style with dealer installed security systems, then the kind of system you have, and now the simple immobilizer, main body, and smart key systems.

If it's an 02 RX300, I'll try to see what I can find out about the programming of everything tomorrow and I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[Arv]

(or you're wondering if this will program the new key you're planning on getting when this person gets back from vacation)

Yes in short. The confusion is whether a remote/master key is needed to program a new remote/master key that I am going to buy. There's a way to do it without an existing remote/master but it costs a lot of money. I think the dealer hires a locksmith with a special program/tools to deal with the immobilizer part. Since its a new remote/master key I need the immobilizer and loc/unlock parts programmed.

The other thing is the wallet/card key may or may not be a master key too, if it is then I am ok. I posted this
wife lost remote master key chip - Club Lexus Forums
and I need to try something out as suggested on the second to the last post. I'll let you know how it goes and thanks sooooooo much for all your help and looking into this matter for me!

Arv

 

[sterbenlicht]

Yeah, if that wallet thing is programmed as a master key, and I would assume it is, then you're okay. In any event, to program a new key to the immobilizer, you'll need something in your possession registered as a master key. It wouldn't be a bad idea to also purchase a normal key without the fob part attached and have that programmed as a master that you can put aside for emergencies.

I looked up all of the info on it, and it appears that it is pre-Techstream. It says there are two ways to register a new master key. One is with the brake and accelerator pedal, the other is with the hand-held tester. This hand-held tester is what they used before Techstream was introduced. It's the old Toyota factory scan tool.

I have the procedures for the 2002 RX300 wireless transponder registration, key registration, and immobilizer reset all printed out here. And yes, it gets expensive to do it without a master key because the dealer will charge you for the immobilizer reset which is done using their scan tool along with a pass-code obtained from Toyota Information System. It says some early ECM based immobilizers cannot be reset using Techstream and to refer to some other information charts on doing it...which I didn't bother with because you won't be messing with immobilizer reset on your own.

In the end, you probably have access to all of the instructions you need to program it, and if you don't, I'll post up exactly what you need for your car printed off from TIS. Hopefully that card is registered as a master key. If it isn't, I don't think there's any way around taking it to the dealer and having them do a reset on your immobilizer system. Good luck and let me know if you need any of this info.

 

[Arv]

Yeah, if that wallet thing is programmed as a master key, and I would assume it is, then you're okay. In any event, to program a new key to the immobilizer, you'll need something in your possession registered as a master key. It wouldn't be a bad idea to also purchase a normal key without the fob part attached and have that programmed as a master that you can put aside for emergencies.

I looked up all of the info on it, and it appears that it is pre-Techstream. It says there are two ways to register a new master key. One is with the brake and accelerator pedal, the other is with the hand-held tester. This hand-held tester is what they used before Techstream was introduced. It's the old Toyota factory scan tool.

I have the procedures for the 2002 RX300 wireless transponder registration, key registration, and immobilizer reset all printed out here. And yes, it gets expensive to do it without a master key because the dealer will charge you for the immobilizer reset which is done using their scan tool along with a pass-code obtained from Toyota Information System. It says some early ECM based immobilizers cannot be reset using Techstream and to refer to some other information charts on doing it...which I didn't bother with because you won't be messing with immobilizer reset on your own.

In the end, you probably have access to all of the instructions you need to program it, and if you don't, I'll post up exactly what you need for your car printed off from TIS. Hopefully that card is registered as a master key. If it isn't, I don't think there's any way around taking it to the dealer and having them do a reset on your immobilizer system. Good luck and let me know if you need any of this info.

Wow! Thx for doing all the research. So just to clarify the security/immobilizer system is pre-techstream but the rest of the car is compatible right?

Again, thx!

 

[sterbenlicht]

Wow! Thx for doing all the research. So just to clarify the security/immobilizer system is pre-techstream but the rest of the car is compatible right?

Again, thx!

Yep, it'll access every ECU in Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 1996-Present.

 

[TheDurk]

I just want to report that I have Techstream working using the Amazon chinese cable I posted above and the driver and the very latest Techstream software version in the link posted in [MENTION=111469]sterbenlicht[/MENTION] Tundra thread. The only difficulty was both the driver .msi installer and the Techstream .exe file freaked out the Google Chrome Anti-malware filter and the AVG anti-virus software. I had to disable both to carry out the install on my state-of-2006-art Dell Pentium 4 Win XP 32-bit laptop with 40 Gb hardrive. This will be a garage laptop unattached to the internet so I really couldn't care less if a virus gets in...or even if someone steals the POS out of the garage.


It is important to follow the sequence spelled out in the instructions. Before anything else, go to java.com and get the latest Java or your Techstream won't run. Then

1. Install Techstream BUT DO NOT RUN!! I used the latest, Version 9.something
2. Install Cable Driver (MVCI)
3. Verify TISFunction=0 in Techstream .ini file (mine was)
4. Connect cable to USB and OBDII, key on, and run Techstream for first time. The only thing it needed to know was whether it was a 4Runner or a Taco--it knew it was a 1999 5VZ-FE.

I was able to access SRS and Engine ECU's. It wanted to access the Immobiliser but I don't have one. I also have a 5-speed so an auto may have more stuff.

It does a lot of things the Torque app and scanguage never dreamed of. Various test modes for injectors, fuel pump, IAC and other pieces and an ability to graph all kinds of combinations easily that were a challenge to figure out on Torque, if you could do them at all.

I would love a Techstream For Dummies that would explain how to do engine diagnostics with this thing now that I have it. Any suggestions?

Anyway, I'm still playing with it, but it was worth the investment. Hat tip to Sterbenlicht....thanks!!!

 

[sterbenlicht]

I just want to report that I have Techstream working

Awesome! I'm glad you got it up and working. Unfortunately it's hard to find much useful info on how to use it aside from various forum threads and youtube videos. I think you're ahead of most others because you'll be able to understand the live Data List more than most. Depending on what the issue is, the most helpful info is usually in those data lists while the engine is running. For other things you can manually open and close VSVs to check their quick operation. I'll have to check to see if you can run an auto evap test.

Also, for some codes on the DTC screen, you'll see the small snowflake picture in the little box at the left of the line for the code. Click that to view the freeze frame data when that code was stored. At other times, it may be helpful to switch to one-trip logic. Without going out there and checking, I believe it's in the Engine ECT "utility" button "Check Mode." Just follow the directions and you can drive around and watch the screen to see if the codes come back immediately.

Just playing with it will be the best way to learn. Just for your own amusement, hook it up to a newer Toyota sometime to see how much more it's capable of. The number of ECUs in some cars is insane, and the newer cars are customizable with all of the "customize" buttons you see scattered around that don't do anything on these 4runners. Good luck!

 

[sterbenlicht]

Oh, one more thing:

The only thing it needed to know was whether it was a 4Runner or a Taco--it knew it was a 1999 5VZ-FE.

That tells me that yours should be working properly. This whole Techstream thing started for me when some of my friends got their hands on some Toughbooks thinking they had "Techstream" and wanted me to get it to work. At that time it was very difficult to figure out how to get everything I needed and verify that it worked properly. Once I had gotten everything I needed as far as the versions, the drivers, the hardware, I started experimenting with the computers to make sure it all worked. The only Toyota I had at my disposal for testing the software each time was a 98 4runner. Sometimes they would connect, but a lot of things didn't work properly. The biggest clue on these 4runners is that the vehicle model is the only thing that doesn't populate. If yours also had all of the other fields blank, I would guess you wouldn't be able to connect to the engine ecu, or if you could, you wouldn't be able to view live data. So that one model field means yours is probably fully functional. :hatsoff:

 

[poleclimber63]

Good question, almost forgot about that, I was gonna do that a long time ago.

better or worse than scangauge?

I don't know anything about the Scangauge but I bought a Bluetooth dongle off of eBay for $15 including shipping, and in conjunction with one of my sons' old Android phones, downloaded Torque Pro for $5. Works great and provides all the info you could ever want. If Torque doesnt do everything you want, download anyone of a dozen other apps. For the money I spent I can't loose. The only shortcoming of the dongle I bought is it has no off switch(I just have to unplug it).... some of the units had a switch for a few dollars more. I thought I'd give it a try, and I was very pleased with the results.

my 2cents....

 

[Arv]

Glad you have it going! Thanks for reiterating those points in getting the stuff installed properly.

What version of TS did you install? Per what I remember in browsing through Sterbenlicht's posts, though the newer versions were compatible with the newer cars, they tend to introduce new bugs too.

I got mine coming, I think I ordered the same Fotga Mini VCI cable that you have.

Same here a Dummies guide would be great!

Thanks again to Sterbenlicht for bring this to our attention!

 

[Kryptoroxx]

I don't know anything about the Scangauge but I bought a Bluetooth dongle off of eBay for $15 including shipping, and in conjunction with one of my sons' old Android phones, downloaded Torque Pro for $5. Works great and provides all the info you could ever want. If Torque doesnt do everything you want, download anyone of a dozen other apps. For the money I spent I can't loose. The only shortcoming of the dongle I bought is it has no off switch(I just have to unplug it).... some of the units had a switch for a few dollars more. I thought I'd give it a try, and I was very pleased with the results.

my 2cents....

I spent a little more and got the mx Bluetooth done for 70 bucks and it is definitely worth it. If I really need to see what's going on I can and I can average out mpg on road trips. I just wish it would record when not connected to a phone.

 

[TheDurk]

Glad you have it going! Thanks for reiterating those points in getting the stuff installed properly.

What version of TS did you install? Per what I remember in browsing through Sterbenlicht's posts, though the newer versions were compatible with the newer cars, they tend to introduce new bugs too.

I got mine coming, I think I ordered the same Fotga Mini VCI cable that you have.

Same here a Dummies guide would be great!

Thanks again to Sterbenlicht for bring this to our attention!

I started with the latest, highest numbered version. I figured I could always go earlier if there was a problem. As far as I can tell, it's all good.

 

[poleclimber63]

I spent a little more and got the mx Bluetooth done for 70 bucks and it is definitely worth it. If I really need to see what's going on I can and I can average out mpg on road trips. I just wish it would record when not connected to a phone.

Would be nice.... The dongle, I believe, is basically just an I/O device (the OBD2 port is basically a serial port) which reads and writes data to the ECM. The Scangauge2 is a device that has the program and I/O in one device, hence the $130. With the Scangauge you can modify component addressing (which sensor eg., a/t temp, TPS etc) and the computation (values and units etc) for display. My cheaper alternative, has all of the programming capability happening in the android app. The better the app the more info and flexibility you'll have, but as you've noticed, limitations. I'm sure there's apps that will allow the same functionality as the Scangauge, but I'm happy, at the moment with this. I also haven't fully explored the capabilities of Torque Pro, as I haven't really had a need.

 

[MStudt]

I've been using an Ultra-Gauge for about 4 months now and love it!

 

[Arv]

I started with the latest, highest numbered version. I figured I could always go earlier if there was a problem. As far as I can tell, it's all good.

Great Thx!