Best factory-spec front end rebuild parts?

R

roscoe67

Member
Hi - I am what you might call an infrequent poster, but heavy consumer of information from this site, as I drive a 1996 SR5 and my wife drives a 1990 SR5. I am hoping to tap once again into the well of knowledge here, but a search did not answer it (a first!).

Anyway, it is now time to rebuild the front suspension on the 1990 - it creaks like an old mattress when making U-turns (it has 215K miles). I want to replace:
ball joints
tie rods
control arms (or at least install new bushings)
idler arm
Pittman arm
CVs
shocks

I have found suspension kits on ebay like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Toyota-...Runner&hash=item3d44371e8d:g:ma4AAOSwoXRZjLVD

and a kit from someone called Moog
Front End Steering Rebuild Kit | Toyota 4Runner 90-95

What is the consensus on the best parts to keep the front end to factory spec?

And, as a follow-up, what are the consensus reliable (and affordable) CVs?

Thanks!
 
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I'm new to 4runners but Moog is always a good brand and there's no reason it shouldn't be good on a 4runner. I would stay away from eBay parts, especially for suspension.

For CV you can look into rebuilt ones from AutoZone or any other chain store. They usually carry a warranty as well.


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roscoe67 said:
Hi - I am what you might call an infrequent poster, but heavy consumer of information from this site, as I drive a 1996 SR5 and my wife drives a 1990 SR5. I am hoping to tap once again into the well of knowledge here, but a search did not answer it (a first!).

Anyway, it is now time to rebuild the front suspension on the 1990 - it creaks like an old mattress when making U-turns (it has 215K miles). I want to replace:
ball joints
tie rods
control arms (or at least install new bushings)
idler arm
Pittman arm
CVs
shocks

I have found suspension kits on ebay like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Toyota-...Runner&hash=item3d44371e8d:g:ma4AAOSwoXRZjLVD

and a kit from someone called Moog
Front End Steering Rebuild Kit | Toyota 4Runner 90-95

What is the consensus on the best parts to keep the front end to factory spec?

And, as a follow-up, what are the consensus reliable (and affordable) CVs?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the dealer can still get you replacements.
 
roscoe67 said:
Hi - I am what you might call an infrequent poster, but heavy consumer of information from this site, as I drive a 1996 SR5 and my wife drives a 1990 SR5. I am hoping to tap once again into the well of knowledge here, but a search did not answer it (a first!).

Anyway, it is now time to rebuild the front suspension on the 1990 - it creaks like an old mattress when making U-turns (it has 215K miles). I want to replace:
ball joints
tie rods
control arms (or at least install new bushings)
idler arm
Pittman arm
CVs
shocks..
Click to expand...

Well ya know that creaking may not have anything to do with your suspension components being in sub par condition, right? Try greasing the steering stops.
If none of those pieces have been replaced in 215K miles then it would be a good idea nevertheless. Maybe they have though-check 'em out.
I compared options at the parts store when replacing my idler arm and the Moog part looked a lot beefier. Also came with a zerk fitting, so I went with this more expensive piece.
 
NAPA chassis parts used to be made by Dana Corp and not sure if that still holds true. As far as I know, they still have a lifetime warranty. Between Dana and Moog, you can't go wrong, IMHO! I'm still a firm believer in grease able chassis parts but that has become harder to find in some cases. Definitely a factor to consider. Rod
 
I discussed this topic here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/194111-front-end-parts.html#post1981526

And as I said in that post, I've had a bit of experience in the aftermarket parts world. Yes, for now anyway, Napa premium are made by Dana. Their Altrom line has some of the Senkei/555 parts. Beck Arnley are available elsewhere.



As stated above, if you're creaking in a u-turn, it's probably your turn stops. I've also found creaking noises to come from old shocks. Both of those repairs are pretty easy. If you don't have slop or movement in your ball joints, etc., I wouldn't change them. OEM parts are pretty amazing sometimes for their longevity.

And after all of that is said... I just re-read your post and saw you talking about your CV's, too. The CV axles can be a pain sometimes to get changed out. If you are going to change all the other components (tie rods, ball joints, sway bar end links) it'll be a breeze to change the CV's. I've found the easiest way to get them in and out is to remove the brake calipers, end links, and upper ball joints, and then I can even get an impact on the axle nuts for the CV. So, bigger bill for all of the parts, but I'd rather do it all at one time.
 
Rock auto. I did upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower poly bushings, and toyota remanufactured cvs. Toyota sold the cvs. I believe rock auto had everything else.
 
Cali 4runner said:
Rock auto. I did upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower poly bushings, and toyota remanufactured cvs. Toyota sold the cvs. I believe rock auto had everything else.
Click to expand...

I second Rockauto. Best shipping, multiple choices. Just go with a reputable brand and you should be good. I need to swap my Autozone LBJs out with something not garbage.

I did KYB Gas-a-just for the rear shocks, fronts should do fine.

Timken wheel bearings

Wagner discs (warped now, ugh thanks Colorado)

Bosch pads

OME Steering Dampener
 
Moog parts quality and quality control has gone down hill in the last few years. Moog was known for their quality.

If you are truly looking for factory-spec parts, you can't go wrong what was installed from the factory, OE parts.
 
amalik said:
Hello, you're on T4R... OEM, duh!!!!
Click to expand...

It is an unfortunate loop. Break a balljoint on the DD, need one TODAY since its a DD. AutoZone has the balljoint TODAY. I'm going to just order some next time I have cash so when the balljoint day comes around I've got OEMs ready to rumble.

plus they're way expensive. I know. Life saving part. I just check mine once a week to make sure they do not have play.
 
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