jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Ha, thanks. Yeah, my day job isn't toyotas.
(But I really appreciate the comment; I did a lot of the shop layout/buildout design.)
Best price on OME?
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Ha, thanks. Yeah, my day job isn't toyotas.
(But I really appreciate the comment; I did a lot of the shop layout/buildout design.)
TT4RLtdV8
New member
Ha, thanks. Yeah, my day job isn't toyotas.
(But I really appreciate the comment; I did a lot of the shop layout/buildout design.)
So can I ask what you do? That's some serious hardware and some serious vehicles in there...
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
So to get the actual spring rate, we'd need the length of the lever arm, right? (a-arm and hub assembly to wheel mount face dimension?)
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Ok, so I'm back at it.
Folded bumpstops cut, straightened, and welded; new bushings upper and lower.
A question, though: at 166 ftlbs on the pivot mount on the upper arm, they only rotation will be that that is afforded by the rubber bushings twist - is that correct?
If so, the a-arm bushings would be the first things to change for a trail build, imo.
Since the arm is held captive, angle-wise once torqued, I measured the inclination of the drivers side arm and set this one at the same 21 degrees from horizontal before torquing it.
Someone give me some wisdom on this - surely limiting travel to bushing twist is counterproductive to an effective range of total travel?
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Folded bumpstops cut, straightened, and welded; new bushings upper and lower.
A question, though: at 166 ftlbs on the pivot mount on the upper arm, they only rotation will be that that is afforded by the rubber bushings twist - is that correct?
If so, the a-arm bushings would be the first things to change for a trail build, imo.
Since the arm is held captive, angle-wise once torqued, I measured the inclination of the drivers side arm and set this one at the same 21 degrees from horizontal before torquing it.
Someone give me some wisdom on this - surely limiting travel to bushing twist is counterproductive to an effective range of total travel?
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JZiggy
Senior Member
On YotaTech there's a guy who makes and sells long travel suspension systems (Blazeland) for early Toyota IFS and he would have the best handle on this stuff.
My experience with these bushings is that people often change them out to poly to give them a little freer motion, but then they squeak like mad! I tried to R&R them, cut channels for grease, etc. to no avail.
My experience with these bushings is that people often change them out to poly to give them a little freer motion, but then they squeak like mad! I tried to R&R them, cut channels for grease, etc. to no avail.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Well, because I don't read instructions all the time, I didn't realize that running ball joint spacers involved cutting the upper A-arm.
Keith's Tip of the Day: cut it in while the A-arm is off of the truck.
I installed the bolts threads-down; my thinking being that if one were to lose the nut, you'd avoid losing the bolt.
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Keith's Tip of the Day: cut it in while the A-arm is off of the truck.
I installed the bolts threads-down; my thinking being that if one were to lose the nut, you'd avoid losing the bolt.
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
OK; new pressing question:
I've installed the torsion bars at a preliminary setting of "threaded all the way to flush with the top of the locknut" on both sides - that being the only quick method I could think of of evening the bars L/R before fine tuning the height.
However, at that adjustment (same on both sides, mind you) the drivers side is on the upper (droop) bump stop
- while the passenger side isn't even close:
Since the bars are handed (L/R) is this normal? It is impossible to get them off spline because of the keying, correct?
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I've installed the torsion bars at a preliminary setting of "threaded all the way to flush with the top of the locknut" on both sides - that being the only quick method I could think of of evening the bars L/R before fine tuning the height.
However, at that adjustment (same on both sides, mind you) the drivers side is on the upper (droop) bump stop
- while the passenger side isn't even close:
Since the bars are handed (L/R) is this normal? It is impossible to get them off spline because of the keying, correct?
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89FourRunner
New member
I will chime in on this one.
The torsion bar adjusting bolt length equality doesn't relate to the preload on the bars.
Factory ride height from the factory service manual is 11.2" from the ground to the center of the front lower control arm mounting bolt on new 225/75 r15 tires @ 26psi. That number changes to 12.5" on 31x10.5 R15 @26psi.
Whatever tire size you have (and to remove tires from the measurement) the stock ride height is 13.5" from the top of a 15" rim lip, to the fender (straight up) when at resting static position. Installation of the ball joint spacers with zero "cranking" of the torsion bars should put you at 15" from top of rim to fender lip. So with the balljoint spacers installed, you know you are at factory preload when you measure 15".
The torsion bar adjustment bolts will not match however.
13.5" rim top to fender lip stock without ball joint spacers.
15" rim top to fender lip stock with ball joint spacers installed.
That is, if you want to set your OME torsion bars to around stock height and angles.
The torsion bar adjusting bolt length equality doesn't relate to the preload on the bars.
Factory ride height from the factory service manual is 11.2" from the ground to the center of the front lower control arm mounting bolt on new 225/75 r15 tires @ 26psi. That number changes to 12.5" on 31x10.5 R15 @26psi.
Whatever tire size you have (and to remove tires from the measurement) the stock ride height is 13.5" from the top of a 15" rim lip, to the fender (straight up) when at resting static position. Installation of the ball joint spacers with zero "cranking" of the torsion bars should put you at 15" from top of rim to fender lip. So with the balljoint spacers installed, you know you are at factory preload when you measure 15".
The torsion bar adjustment bolts will not match however.
13.5" rim top to fender lip stock without ball joint spacers.
15" rim top to fender lip stock with ball joint spacers installed.
That is, if you want to set your OME torsion bars to around stock height and angles.
Last edited:
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
JUST saw this (Tapatalk isn't giving me thread updates) - thank you.
I have an issue using the 15" measurement on the passenger side because of the extensive body damage over there, but now that I know - I should be able to use the 15" measurement on the driver's side, then do frame to alignment rack measurements to match the two sides in the morning.
That's great info, I appreciate it.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Back at it today; did an initial ride height adjustment then aligned it and went for a drive:
Well, the passenger side front corner (low corner) felt softer than the left (particularly during turn-in) so I brought it back and put it on the scales and roughed it in:
Then I put a driver in it and started failing in the drivers cross weight - a combination of raising the passenger front and lowering the drivers front until the truck flattened itself out and the weights cleaned up.
Ended up with roughly 52.5 % front, 51% left side, 48.9% cross with a driver in it.
Right side of the truck is 6mm lower than the front, so I'm considering 1/4" body spacers on that side to level it out.
I could not get it to align properly, however (I believe something is up with the right front frame or suspension hard parts.). I ended up compromising both caster (minimum) and camber (in the window, but asymmetrical):
Now to bleed the brakes again and look at the squeaky clutch before I trade off with my spouse (and get my 3rd gen back.)
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Well, the passenger side front corner (low corner) felt softer than the left (particularly during turn-in) so I brought it back and put it on the scales and roughed it in:
Then I put a driver in it and started failing in the drivers cross weight - a combination of raising the passenger front and lowering the drivers front until the truck flattened itself out and the weights cleaned up.
Ended up with roughly 52.5 % front, 51% left side, 48.9% cross with a driver in it.
Right side of the truck is 6mm lower than the front, so I'm considering 1/4" body spacers on that side to level it out.
I could not get it to align properly, however (I believe something is up with the right front frame or suspension hard parts.). I ended up compromising both caster (minimum) and camber (in the window, but asymmetrical):
Now to bleed the brakes again and look at the squeaky clutch before I trade off with my spouse (and get my 3rd gen back.)
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Test drive went well - OME kit is firm, but well valved and I'm a lot more confident driving this thing briskly now (like I do the 96.)
The rear is too high, but I believe it'll settle in after a couple of times hauling ceramics clay or bagged fertilizer or something.
(At least I hope so)
The steering wheel is a bit off, but I'll revisit that next time I work on the truck; it's eaten up 5 days of my work schedule already!
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The rear is too high, but I believe it'll settle in after a couple of times hauling ceramics clay or bagged fertilizer or something.
(At least I hope so)
The steering wheel is a bit off, but I'll revisit that next time I work on the truck; it's eaten up 5 days of my work schedule already!
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89FourRunner
New member
Yeah the rear OME springs give something like 4 in hes of lift, its quite a lot.
It is looking good though!
It is looking good though!
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